SKS scope zeroing issue!

McCoolium

McCoolium

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A few years back I bought a metal mount that slips over top of the dust cover of my SKS that allows you to mount a small scope and still use the iron sights. Well after 2 months of effort and 4 broken taps I finally have the thing screwed onto the receiver.

Now here's the problem; I bought a bore sighter so I'm not pumping rounds out into the middle of nowhere when I take her out to zero her, but when I attach the bore sighter and look through the scope (with my reticule height set for as low as it can go) I am aiming over the bore sighter.

I assumed that maybe the mounting job I did wasn't the greatest so I shimmed the tail end of the mounting rail so the scope is noticably aiming downward. Still when I look through the scope I am not able to look into my bore sighter to get a zero.

The distance between the center of bore and the center of my sight is about 3 inches. The distance between the center of bore and center of the bore sighter is about 1.5 inches. Could this be my problem?

Is it possible that my scope is totally useless just due to it being cheap?

What can I do (short of shooting) to obtain a decent zero? or do you think that this is FUBAR and I should stop wasting my time?

thanks
 
McCoolium said:
Is it possible that my scope is totally useless just due to it being cheap?
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You hit the nail on the head. The only SKS scope mount worth the trouble in my opinion is the Choate Drill and Tap scope mount. Anything else is just a stop gap solution. If you use corrosive ammo you'll need to clean under the dust cover after every time you shoot, which will cause your mount to lose zero. Sorry, but that's just the way I see it. Some have had success with receiver cover mounts, but they are pretty few and far between.

Good luck with it.:)
 
I'm assuming your rail mounts to the dust cover on the receiver, right? A lot of times the dust cover is too loose to offer a proper mount. Aftermarket ones come to big and are designed to be filed for each application, and are often over filed. Too tight is just right! ( get your minds out of the gutter...)
 
saskgunowner101 said:
:eek: Wow....is that ever high up!
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+1!

OK, these scope mounts are cheap, get a different one :).


edit: Not this one!
6.jpg
 
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A "See-thru" is dangerous. One day you might use the irons and the scope can be a half inch from your forehead. Not too bad with a SKS, but a bigger gun could do real damage. Imagin a guy in a tree stand getting pounded.

With the scope so high above the bore your cheek wont rest on the stock. Not good.

But, fire at a big target at 25 yards. You want to see hits about 1.5 inches low at 25 to be on at 100. A boresighter with a high scope like that is tuff to use.
 
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Ganderite said:
A "See-thru" is dangerous. One day you might use the irons and the scope can be a half inch from your forehead. Not too bad with a SKS, but a bigger gun could do real damage. Imagin a guy in a tree stand getting pounded.

With the scope so high above the bore your cheek wont rest on the stock. Not good.

But, fire at a big target at 25 yards. You want to see hits about 1.5 inches low at 25 to be on at 100. A boresighter with a high scope like that is tuff to use.
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A bigger gun??? Oh, I think you meant a larger calibre or a rifle with increased recoil. A bigger rifle in terms of dimensions makes no difference. Zeroing at 25 yards is great for getting on paper but does not provide a finite zero for any increased distance. If you're planning on zeroing for 100 yards, then shoot the rifle at 100 yards.

If you expect to be taken seriously, a better grasp of nomenclature and a better understanding of your topic is a must.

TDC
 
Forget the boresighter for a minute.
With a scope 3" high, if you put a sticker on the wall at 20m, line the bore up with that looking through the chamber, and adjust the crosshairs to match, that will give you a 280m zero with 7.62x39. If you move the crosshair 1.7" low on the target at 20m, that is a 100m zero.
If you can't move the crosshairs to match, shim it so you can.
I understand you want a high mount to remove the receiver cover. But perhaps 2 1/2" high would work, and you could redrill the holes instead of shimming.
 
TDC said:
Zeroing at 25 yards is great for getting on paper but does not provide a finite zero for any increased distance.
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A 25yrd zero is the same as a 280yrd zero in this case, a decent Battle Zero. 8" high at 150 yards, that is 7.62x39 for ya.


Ganderite said:
But, fire at a big target at 25 yards. You want to see hits about 1.5 inches low at 25 to be on at 100.
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Yes!
 
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Juster said:
A 25yrd zero is the same as a 280yrd zero in this case, a decent Battle Zero. 8" high at 150 yards, that is 7.62x39 for ya.
Yes!
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A 25 yard zero in theory will provide a second crossover point at some increased distance. This is true however, ensuring your windage and elevation are adjusted to minimize your groupings cannot be accurately done at 25 yards. Four rounds touching in a horizontal string at 25 yards will not print the same small group at 100, 200, 300, etc etc. Get on paper at 25 then shoot at extended ranges to confirm your zero and correct. Anyone can shoot a great group at 25.

TDC
 
Well I took her out to get her zero'd yesterday and I am convinced that my scope mount and mounting job are fine, but I'm 99% sure that my scope is a piece of junk. I couldn't get two rounds to hit in the same place at 25m.

I can't really be sad, I only paid $25 for the optic. I guess I will have to save up some cash for a semi-decent scope.

Thanks for the help.
 
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