You can easily reshape and polish the top of the sear to actually give it positive engagement of the hammer, (making it more safe) smooth/eliminate the creep and all the grit.
I say that right before IF you know what you're doing.
You need to take the trigger assy apart (its exceedingly simple in design) and you will then understand HOW it works.
You need to first determine if the sear has neg, neutral or pos engagement. Its easy just look at the angle of the top of the sear where the hammer engages and locks. If its sloped down towards the back of the rifle its negative (least safe) if its flat its neutral and if its cut and sloping down towards the muzzle of the rifle its positive (safest and most ideal)
If its neg or neutral, you want to use a flat smith file and slowly file a bit less than 1/8" wide across the top of the sear where the hammer engages it and file a nice even, ever so slight slope inwards and down towards the muzzle.
Then use very fine sandpaper like 400 or 600 grit and smooth polish the new sear cut, the face of the sear and the hammer engagement areas.
Do that with the lighter springs and you'll be amazed at how good that trigger feels
Take your time. Understand how it works. When you pull the trigger of an SKS youre actually pushing a rod forward in the trigger pack that bumps a safety lever (which can only be inline with the sear when bolt is in full battery) which then pushes the sear away from the hammer to release it.
Thats how it works.
The trigger pull you feel is the force of the hammer spring pushing down on the sear and also the sear retur spring you're forcing it backwards against.
The grit and creep you feel is from said sear angle and surface texture of the steel on it and the hammer. Reshaping properly will make it break clean and sharp!
Changing the springs will lighten the pull pressure required.
That more you know comrades