Sks trigger weight increased after cleaning??

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TrendyRendy

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So I recently acquired a chinese sks, took it home and played around with it as I never owned one before. I wanted to go a full strip and clean everything so that I know everything is cleaned and no Cosmo in it so it I wont have to worry about malfunctions.
Anyway before I cleaned it I wanted to see what the trigger pull was since I heard these are terrible, i took out my trigger weight gauge and it was breaking at 4-5 pounds. Great so i went ahead cleaning it and after the trigger weight increased to 7 1/2 to 8 1/2 pounds.
I lubricated it with oil, same weight, I tried a little grease too and no change.
Any idea what it could be?
 
Either you missed some bits of dirt OR perhaps the action (sear and rails) is too 'rough' and dry. While the sear and spring are out, lightly polish (with 1000g silica paper) the under-side of the sear rail and the upper side of the 'rail' the sear rides on. Then, add a tiny dab(paper match-head size) of synthetic grease at these points ONLY. Those are the most critical places that are 'safely' polished, until you are more acquainted with the internals of the action. You should also ask someone knowledgeable to look at the sear and the operation of the trigger assy b4 you put it back together, looking at whether the 'engagement' of the sear is positive, negative or neutral. There are loads of YTube vids on improving the action, but caution is needed as the gun can be made un-safe without full understanding of each step.
 
Buck1950 said:
Either you missed some bits of dirt OR perhaps the action (sear and rails) is too 'rough' and dry. While the sear and spring are out, lightly polish (with 1000g silica paper) the under-side of the sear rail and the upper side of the 'rail' the sear rides on. Then, add a tiny dab(paper match-head size) of synthetic grease at these points ONLY. Those are the most critical places that are 'safely' polished, until you are more acquainted with the internals of the action. You should also ask someone knowledgeable to look at the sear and the operation of the trigger assy b4 you put it back together, looking at whether the 'engagement' of the sear is positive, negative or neutral. There are loads of YTube vids on improving the action, but caution is needed as the gun can be made un-safe without full understanding of each step.
Click to expand...

This.
Be careful with sear polishing. Make sure you understand positive engagement from reading . PM me if you do not understand. I will send videoCan make rifle unsafe, ie not drop-safe

Here’s a good article with pics
https://w w w .yooperj.com/SKS-25.htm
 
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MusicianShooter said:
This.
Be careful with sear polishing. Make sure you understand positive engagement from reading . PM me if you do not understand. I will send videoCan make rifle unsafe, ie not drop-safe

Here’s a good article with pics
https://w w w .yooperj.com/SKS-25.htm
Click to expand...

Since it was working fine before, I think just a clean will do it - plus the proper oil -
 
So I stripped it again and cleaned it again, put some grease, nothing, still the same.
Polished the rails with 2000g and still the same.
Since I had the trigger apart I went ahead and did a trigger job, changed the negative engagement to positive. It breaks clean and has little creep. I tested the safety of it by dropping the rifle waist high onto the floor multiple time and took the butt end of the rifle and beat the s#it out of it into the floor and no discharge, as when I go to pull the trigger it let's the hammer fall.
I bought some Mcarbo springs to try it and notice that the stock seat spring is a 1/4 shorter than the Mcarbos. I swapped it but didnt make much a difference, my trigger pull gauge stops a 8 pounds but with the Mcarbo 3 1/2 pound it breaks at 8lbs, with the 2 1/2 pound it breaks at 7 but I heard that the 2 1/2 has issues with pending the mag and dumping your ammo. So I installed the 3 1/2.
I also notice that when its not cocked (hammer down) and I pull the trigger it makes a clicking sound at the end of the trigger pull. Upon investigating I see that the trigger bar pushes onto the very bottom edge of the sear and slips off after enough trigger pull. But only when the hammer is down

I dont know what it could be.
Maybe I'll try wolff springs and see how that does.
If nothing then I guess it is what it is
 
Hey Trendy - Just a thought here, is the sear engagement at a very slight Positive angle? should be just barely a visible 'upward ramp' angle and polished. Mine is very slight, and only has a ramp about 3/16" long. Here's a couple pics, one showing the angle and one showing the 'ramp' - the wear marks shows hammer contact area. My trigger is about 4# or a hair less. Also, look at the hammer where it rubs the sear -that s/b polished too. I don't know if you've found many "Trigger job" vids, but this is a good one. Good explanation of the sear/hammer relationship. http s://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KMSEWSDeprQ
BTW - Mine is a '51 Tula,not Chinese
SKS-Sear-5-10-10-2020.jpg
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SKS-Sear-3-10-10-2020.jpg
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Make sure the rails the sear travels on haven’t become squished together. Sometimes when you put the pin in it can force the rails together and bind the sears travel
 
emmab said:
Make sure the rails the sear travels on haven’t become squished together. Sometimes when you put the pin in it can force the rails together and bind the sears travel
Click to expand...

Hmm that makes sense. I did have it in a vise to have more control when pulling out the hammer in spring, though my vise has soft plastic inserts it could've compressed it just enough I guess. I'll take a look
 
Buck1950 said:
Either you missed some bits of dirt OR perhaps the action (sear and rails) is too 'rough' and dry. While the sear and spring are out, lightly polish (with 1000g silica paper) the under-side of the sear rail and the upper side of the 'rail' the sear rides on. Then, add a tiny dab(paper match-head size) of synthetic grease at these points ONLY. Those are the most critical places that are 'safely' polished, until you are more acquainted with the internals of the action. You should also ask someone knowledgeable to look at the sear and the operation of the trigger assy b4 you put it back together, looking at whether the 'engagement' of the sear is positive, negative or neutral. There are loads of YTube vids on improving the action, but caution is needed as the gun can be made un-safe without full understanding of each step.
Click to expand...

This. Polishing or stoning a trigger can do wonders but if taken too far is hard to fix. Easy to remove material, hard to put it back.
 
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