SKS Tula '50 Test Fired

lejarretnoir

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Haven't shot one of these in a long time and then it was an older Norinco. It was a good shooter and sold that to a friend of mine. Always wanted to try a Russian SKS and so I did.

Truth is my eyes are not what they use to be. They just will not be consistent group to group @ 100 meters. I'll be scoping this machine sometime with a Choate mount. Best I can do with Czech or Norinco surplus corrosive ammo is 2 to 4" with original irons then my eyes wander into space and the next group ends up higher or to the right or left. :redface:

Red dot or scope for the next trial of tests and a case of Czech ammo ordered. I'll make Mexican match loads and test various kinds of bullets. The SKS is just too hard on brass so steel cased throwaway is what it gets.

Trigger was a little gritty and lots of creep and broke around 8lbs mushy. After cleaning last night I just had to do a little trigger work. I'm not going to a complete job until I have a back up sear and disconnector in case it goes wrong, but now the grittiness is gone, takeup smooth and it breaks at 6lbs crisp after some proper stoning. I can live with that until the parts arrive and some Wolfe springs.

Truth is the rifle is pure fun to shoot! Hardly any recoil, shells flying high and the smell of corrosive ammo. I think my wife and nephew will like this rifle once it's all tricked out for general practice and plinking. The price of ammo is hard to beat for an extended day of shooting. Not one FTF or FTE, Ultra reliable. For the money this is a well thought out design, well made rifle. Nice to have an original. I believe 1 MOA will be easily achieved with a good trigger, bedding job, good ammo and properly scoped.

For those of you concerned about corrosive ammo, don't be. Get into taking that rifle apart every time as you should be doing. That surplus ammo is filthy anyway. After 50 rounds things get black. Just run hot tap water into the bore, piston and bolt parts. If it doesn't evaporate, blow dry or use air compression. I use Hoppe's and synthetic oil after. My old Norc had cases shot in it and there was never a speck of rust.
 
I've only just polished up the sear and hammer for now, but I'll be using a different method that will incorporate the Bridgeport mill to speed up the process and make a precise rounded angle for positive engagement. Once you setup a positive engagement and remove most of the creep you will need lighter hammer and sear springs to get that trigger pull down to 4lbs.

SailorCurt's and AGI both have excellent tutorials.
 
My advise for anybody not experienced with trigger jobs it to get a few sears first and practice on those. Keep the original for comparison and if all else fails it goes back to original. The SailorCurt method will work if you have mastered it first. That takes finesse few have and like any video it looks easy. One or two passes too many with the stone and both angles are wrong.

After playing with triggers for 20yrs I still keep spare parts for many types just in case.
 
Honestly, for a hewbie, the best thing to do is to get some 200gr and 800gr sandpaper. Wrap it around a flat file and sand the sear engagements until smooth, switch to 800 and make them mirror bright. Light strokes, don;t change the angle - just making it smooth.
 
You can also "spin" the springs to reduce tension too, but I recommend replacement and keep originals. You can just polish the surface as mentioned, but the negative or neutral engagement will still give you lots of 1st stage creep, but smoother. It won't be a crisp break either on 2nd stage. Still better than rough and gritty though.
 
You can also "spin" the springs to reduce tension too, but I recommend replacement and keep originals. You can just polish the surface as mentioned, but the negative or neutral engagement will still give you lots of 1st stage creep, but smoother. It won't be a crisp break either on 2nd stage. Still better than rough and gritty though.
Uhh please don't do the above part that is highlighted unless you are a 100% confendent on what you are doing as this will lead to slam fire issues.
http://1.bp.########.com/_elKN5y-4vEw/SAZj1J1QrqI/AAAAAAAAAB0/WbW_M-y0ENg/s400/10SmoothThis.jpg
Please click the pic below for a great read on what & how the sks trigger works also to properly do the trigger job;
http://4.bp.########.com/_M_5npxIZRUg/SxzG3M9NHLI/AAAAAAAACMI/nWwac9Cl60I/s400/sks_plakat.jpg
 
Another night of trigger work netted a slightly positive engagement, very little creep and a good trigger slightly lighter. I think once the Wolfe springs arrive 4 to 4.5lbs would be easy. Had to abandon any milling of the sear as it's too hard, so the Sailor Curt method worked for me. It takes hours of patient work though. Always leave some first stage though. None is a disaster waiting to happen in the SKS.

Satain is correct about spring spinning. You have to know how to do that properly. I don't bother with it unless I have no choice. I prefer new springs.
 
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