Sks zeroing issue

JVFriday13th

JVFriday13th

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My sight post is maxed out to the left and my tech sight aperture is way over to the right but it's finally zeroed at 25m.

What are the likely causes of this?
FSB canted ?
Crown is haggard (It looks less than optimal) ?
Bent barrel (I really hope not...) ?

Any help is appreciated. I can live with it but it's super annoying...
 
Remove bolt. Place on secure rest. Sand bag or block against moving.

Rig a flashlight about 40 yards or so away to shine back at rifle. Bore sight through barrel on flashlight.

Where do the sights fall relative to the flashlight ?
 
So flashlight pointed at rifle, boresight aimed at flashlight via rifle bore and check out where POA is? Have I got that right?

Thanks for the help!
 
Sks is zeroes with bayo extended, and figure П is set on rear site or 300. Then target in diameter of 15cm is placed at distance of 100 meters. 4 shots should be made at the target. When all 4shots are in the circle then rifle is acceptably accurate. If not, it has to be reverified by gunsmith
 
No bayo and no rear sight ladder here. My plan was get on paper at 25m and fine-tune at 100m. If my groupings are as you described (inside 15cm Dia. Circle @ 100m) I'll caller a day.
 
ok most SKS have a badly indexed front site post.

Pop the gun on the ground but first (unloaded) line the gun up and look in reverse down the ite line... you will see if its out left or right.

if its out, its a ##### to zero. because if you drift the front site it say left, you may also move the aimpoint up or down depending on which way the front site post is leaning... same with moving the group up and down, you end up changing the the left right...

what this means is ou have to adjust both windage and elevation in correlation with the cant at the same time to zero... otherwise you chase a group around all day.


of course... you could just buy a magwedge rail and be done with it.
 
I seem to recall that the 7.62x39 cartridge crosses the POA at 25 m and 300 m, if you sight it in at 25 m you should have no problem reaching out longer distances. You may have to do a slight 6 oclock hold at 100 yds but it does work.

That being said, my guess woukd be a bent barrel. But, if you have it zeroed and it hits where you aim, whats the problem? Most people just use Kentucky windage adjustments anyways :p
 
JVFriday13th said:
No bayo and no rear sight ladder here. My plan was get on paper at 25m and fine-tune at 100m. If my groupings are as you described (inside 15cm Dia. Circle @ 100m) I'll caller a day.
Click to expand...

I don't get it? If you have no rear sight, tthen why worry where your front sight is. It might as well be off the bore. Now you have to tell us where you have mounted the scope. If its mounted on the rear cover, then it will never hold zero.
The only way to put scope on sks properly is to tap the receiver and bolt the scope mount to it. Any other method is just waste of time and ammo
 
He said he is using a Tech Sight.

I had one that the front sight assembly was so poorly indexed it would never sight in. Ended up just parting it out.

gewehr76 said:
I don't get it? If you have no rear sight, tthen why worry where your front sight is. It might as well be off the bore. Now you have to tell us where you have mounted the scope. If its mounted on the rear cover, then it will never hold zero.
The only way to put scope on sks properly is to tap the receiver and bolt the scope mount to it. Any other method is just waste of time and ammo
Click to expand...
 
PinkyPlinker said:
He said he is using a Tech Sight.

I had one that the front sight assembly was so poorly indexed it would never sight in. Ended up just parting it out.
Click to expand...

You beat me to it. Thank you.

Next on my list is a barrel chop and crown so maybe that will be the time to address issues with the front sight.
 
yomomma said:
I have one that is similar, I wrote it off as a bent/ misaligned barrel. My front post is maxed to the right.

Plan is to weld up notch on the rear sight and re cut it
Click to expand...

Try a different rear sight and see if it makes a difference. The tolerances on them weren't as tight as some other parts and I have seen one rear sight that would max the front post and not quite get it zeroed, but when swapped out with a different one it brought the front post almost to the middle.
 
Go check out a Canadian company called magwedge. They sell rear sights and also a pic rail that is a solid base for a scope no drilling no tapping,just a pin using the rear sight hole and a replacement pin(quick removal) for the rear dust cover pin. Stripper clip hole in the rail for quick loading
 
I've heard about the rear sight ladder being an issue as well, thanks for the heads up. And as far as magwedge stuff goes, yes all of it is bomber. I have the G9 on this rifle actually and their couplers on my xcr mags; wouldn't hesitate to buy a rail but I'm in love with the tech sight right now.
 
gewehr76 said:
Sks is zeroes with bayo extended, and figure П is set on rear site or 300. Then target in diameter of 15cm is placed at distance of 100 meters. 4 shots should be made at the target. When all 4shots are in the circle then rifle is acceptably accurate. If not, it has to be reverified by gunsmith
Click to expand...

Almost... The manual says:
Set the rear sight to П or 3.
Shoot a series of 4 at 100 m from a prone position.
The group should fit in a 15 cm circle.
The average point of impact must be within 5 cm of the control point, which is 25 cm above the point of aim.

P.S. Yes, the bayonet should be extended.
 
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