Slide Stop and Plunger on 1911

BC Mike

BC Mike

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Today was my first time field stripping my Kimber Tactical Custom II. (or in fact any 1911). After cleaning I had some difficulty putting the Slide Stop in because it was reluctant to go flush against the frame due to the spring loaded Slide Stop plunger. I managed to hold my tongue just right and it went in but there's got to be an easier way. I don't want to force the Slide Stop past it and risk bending the Slide Stop plunger. As this is my first time I don't know if this is normal, a quirk with Kimber or??. Maybe you can give me a tip to make it easier.
Thanks,
Mike
 
All my Kimbers took a while to break in. For the first while I was able to get my thumb nail in between them and push the plunger down. Now they work no problem.

It won't take long.
 
You were right to be careful. This is such a common problem that there is a term for the resulting damage to the gun: it's called the "idiot scratch" and a lot of 1911's have them from owners trying to simply force the slide stop in and having it slip out and scratch the frame.
 
When reassembling your 1911, place a piece of scotch tape or masking tape below the area where the slide stop swings up and above on the slide where it might move if it doesn't seat. This will prevent you from scratching the frame or slide when trying to insert the slide stop.

The slide stop will easily depress the plunger by pressing it into place from only about 1/8” or 1/16” below the plunger tube. It is not necessary to swing it in a big arc – you’ll only guarantee that you’ll slip off the detent plunger and scratch the frame and slide. The “idiot mark” is the sure sign of an amateur.

Take a small extremely fine file and just take the sharp point off the slide stop lever where it lines up with the notch.

I take reassembly a little slower than some at that point too, but rounding the tip ever so slightly will prevent a scratch. Were talking maybe .0001-.0002, just enough to take the sharpness of the point off
 
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