Slight taper

T

Trimlin

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I'm new to reloading, having just got all my equipment in, and I want to make sure I'm not missing any things/steps before starting. I'm using an RCBS turret press with 3 carbide-die set.

First - I will be loading .40 S/W, which is supposed to have a slight taper. Only having 3 dies, I keep reading about factory crimp dies which seem to be a requirement (if I'm understanding this correctly), since the carbide resizing die doesn't apply a taper during seating. (?)

Second - Loading the primer dispenser - Maybe I'm being slightly paranoid but the instructions tell me to first pickup the primers into a tube, which you then turn upside-down and pore down the dispenser tube. My concern is that the dispenser tube is roughly 2 ft, wouldn't there be a risk of the primers detonating from being "dropped" down a tube?

Third - I've read that a full length resizing should always be done instead of just neck sizing (which should only be used in the same bolt-action rifle, correct?) But in reading about sizing straight-walled brass, it sounds as though you would only want to resize the portion holding the bullet? So if this is true, the decapper/resizer would have to be adjusted so that the decapper is low enough to pop out the old primer, the die doesn't make contact with the shell-holder and the sizing rod only goes about 0.6" into the shell?

Thanks
 
1- I think you mean a taper crimp. When reloading straight-walled pistol cases, a slight taper crimp is sometimes applied to remove any excessive belling of the case mouth. Many people don't use the Lee factory crimp die (which applies a taper crimp), they just make sure not to bell the case too much before seating the bullet (neck tension takes care of holding the bullet in place). Taper-crimping isn't absolutely necessary, but it is nice.

2- Can't say, never used a tube-fed priming system

3- The full-length sizing vs. neck-sizing issue only applies to bottleneck rifle cases. Pistol cases have to be full-length resized everytime you reload them. The decapper/resizing die definitely contacts the shell-holder.
 
Carbide dies

Thanks for the info!

The reason I ask about the decapper/resizing die contacting the shell holder is because I've read that you could damage the carbide ring. I've read it in a few places that state it shouldn't make contact with the shell holder.

Anyone have any experience with a tube-fed priming system?
 
I'm going to hazard a wild guess that you are referring to Dillon's primer feed system. I've put several thousand through mine with nary a hiccup. The primers fit rather snugly in the tube, and the chances of detonation are probably on the order of winning the 649 twice in one week. You'd be far more likely to set one off while seating it in the case. Happy landings.
 
Trimlin said:
The reason I ask about the decapper/resizing die contacting the shell holder is because I've read that you could damage the carbide ring. I've read it in a few places that state it shouldn't make contact with the shell holder.
Click to expand...
Right, I heard that as well. Something about carbide shattering easily. It's never happened to me, and my sizing dies have always touched the shell-holder. I try not to apply too much force.
 
I'm just setting up my Dillon, I like the tubular primer system. Much safer than my Lee primer tray in the event of a primer going off.

The tube would direct a detonation upwards rather than toward the operator.

In any case, always wear safety glasses.
 
Reloading for an auto pistol is a four die business. Resize/de-prime, bell or flare case mouth, seat bullet (after priming and powder charge) and then taper crimp. The bullet seating die will have either a straight profile, leaving the case uncrimped, or it will have a roll crimp, which works very well for revolvers, but an auto pistol cartidge headspaces on the case mouth. If you roll crimp, the case will enter the chamber too deeply, and at the least, accuracy will be inconsistent. (At worst, bit and pieces may wind up in your shooting hand, and that red salty stuff will make the range opertor angry.)

As for the adjusting of your carbide resizing die, I believe the instructions in all of my carbide dies - four different brands - all say to turn the die into the press until it just contacts the case holder, and then back it off one -eighth turn, since, as someone said, tungsten carbide is a bit shatter prone.

Generally, the manufacturer's instructions trump what you will get here. If in doubt, most manufacturer's now maintain a tech question email service. Try them.
 
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