Slightly shortening rifle action screws

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MartyK2500

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I have an aluminium bedded Savage 10 in an M24 style HS precision stock.
I really love this rifle, at 12.5lbs fully loaded with a 24’’ medium heavy, 3-15x50 NF, it’s a nice carry/hunting precision rifle.

HS precision website says we can torque action screws to 65in lbs
When i got the rifle it was at 30 in lbs and cycled great
When i torque it to 60 in lbs, action screws touch the bolt and that is not good.

For someone with intermediate experience in firearm modifications,
What would be the best tool to slightly shorten without damaging the threads?
 
I have a number of pieces of angle iron (various thicknesses) that I install in a bench rise - the top flats have numerous drilled and tapped holes for various screw sizes - insert screw from bottom, allow amount you want to remove to protrude above the flat - file it off with a smooth cut file - unscrew the screw and the remaining threads will be untouched, and the end will be square.
 
What tools do you have on hand?

Bench grinder? Use that, spin the screw with your fingers while it grinds off a bit of the tip. Hold the screw against then stone so it pushes any burr towards the center of the screw. A quick, very light pass around the outside of the tip can knock off any deformed threads. Won't be super pretty, but will work.

Got a bench vise? Clamp the screw between two scraps of wood, file a bit off the end. Same deal, file around the screw, towards the center of its end, and 'push' the burrs away from the outside edge.

Angle grinder? Dremel? Same technique, same results, faster, but with more ability to muck up at high speed.

If you can, put a nut or two of the correct size on the screws to mark how much you wish to remove. Spinning off the nuts after, will clear off any residue that might be on the threads. Or run a die down it, from a tap and die kit, if so equipped.
Use tape, a Sharpie marker, or the nuts trick to mark off how much to remove. I suggest maybe two or three threads at a time, then try them for fit again, rinse, repeat as required.
 
Potashminer said:
I have a number of pieces of angle iron (various thicknesses) that I install in a bench rise - the top flats have numerous drilled and tapped holes for various screw sizes - insert screw from bottom, allow amount you want to remove to protrude above the flat - file it off with a smooth cut file - unscrew the screw and the remaining threads will be untouched, and the end will be square.
Click to expand...

Yeah, have built plates to shorten a bunch of screws at a time in a milling machine, too. Works a treat.
 
You won't screw it up. If you were able to figure out the problem in the first place I have full confidence that this is a breeze for you. You'll be fine.
 
It’s easy to do, the hardest part about it is figuring some way to hold the screw or bolt securely while you trim it with a dremel or grinder. I just lock it in a vise grip and trim it on the bench grinder or dremel and round over the cut end. Even a hacksaw and file will get the job done.
 
So wait, I have a Model 70 EW (Bell and Carlson stock) and an HS Precision (same stock) on order. The Winchester manual says to torque action screws to 35 inch pounds. Are you guys saying that one should disregard the manual and torque to HS specs? Not trying to argue, just trying to understand why. I would think given that Model 70s use either wood or composite stocks depending on model, that the 35 would be the same across the board no?
 
Yail Bloor said:
So wait, I have a Model 70 EW (Bell and Carlson stock) and an HS Precision (same stock) on order. The Winchester manual says to torque action screws to 35 inch pounds. Are you guys saying that one should disregard the manual and torque to HS specs? Not trying to argue, just trying to understand why. I would think given that Model 70s use either wood or composite stocks depending on model, that the 35 would be the same across the board no?
Click to expand...

If you really want to get all retentive about it, you will tighten the stock bolts up in increments and test to see if it makes a difference.

I could easily see lower torque values used in a wood stock than a composite one, or a pillar bedded stock, but at the end of the day, it is as likely that the real reason there is a torque value specified at all, is to prevent the horde of guys who have spent lots of money on tools of questionable value, haranguing the staff looking for a spec or a torque value beyond 'tight, but not too tight'.

End of day, torque to an actual number might or might not actually make any difference. Gonna have to test and see.
 
I have found that the chuck on my drill will allow the head of the screw to bottom out and the jaws grab the shank. I then spin the tip of the screw against my belt sander. Easy to make a nice, smooth, curved tip. Use a hacksaw first if a lot of screw needs to be removed, then finish.
 
Yail Bloor said:
So wait, I have a Model 70 EW (Bell and Carlson stock) and an HS Precision (same stock) on order. The Winchester manual says to torque action screws to 35 inch pounds. Are you guys saying that one should disregard the manual and torque to HS specs? Not trying to argue, just trying to understand why. I would think given that Model 70s use either wood or composite stocks depending on model, that the 35 would be the same across the board no?
Click to expand...

I may be wrong here take with a grain of salt,
Stock/chassis is the one to dictate the torque.

If i have a wooden stocked savage 12 that i suddenly drop in an MDT chassis, torque values definitely will go higher than manual says...
 
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