Slow rust bluing - can't make it go dark

evster said:
Wow, the parts I am doing are starting to look really nice. I have oiled one and I am going to wax it soon. I am using the same wax as you mauser98, so any tips? I was planning on just rubbing in a tiny bit at a time just to get a very very thin layer. Anything else I should know before I start?
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Nope. Just rub some on, let dry and polish with a soft rag
 
Pudelpointer said:
Thanks for the link for the brush Paul. Unfortunately they are out of stock, but I will order one as soon as they have one in. Evster, glad to hear the vinegar worked, that was going to be my suggestion to tryt before the muriatic as vinegar is a lot safer to use. Will be starting a couple of rifles and a couple of old shotguns soon. Will try and get some photos going.

Cheers
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You still chatting about this.........get to work Poodlepointer. Or my wife will strangle us both if she does not have that rifle for her "Elk Draw":D And pictures would be good. How about a before and after. Your parents get there safe and sound?
 
My battle continues.

I have been slowly working away on this and it was going good until I tried to blue the tube magazine. I have done a bunch of the little parts including the trigger guard and everything has turned out perfect. But now the tube magazine is acting like my first attempt, it rusts beautifully but when I boil it the runs does not want to turn black, it actually looks like the color is becoming even more red. I have tried the vinegar and it does not help.

I'm kinda out of ideas here and my gun is going to look very funny if I leave it like this :). All the small parts are beautiful and the main parts are ugly.

The only difference I can think of is that the tube magazine is much thinner metal, I don't know if that will make a difference at all but other than that the process is exactly the same.


Thanks
Evan
 
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Evan:
What make and model of firearm are you bluing? I'm thinking a 22 of off-shore ancestry. If this is the case, there are alot of mysteries in the metal configuration, which would explain some of the bluing troubles. May be talking out of my a--, but thought I'd throw this in.
 
No, it is a Winchester model 12 shotgun. It had gone really rusty and so I thought I would give it a shot. Its all done now except for the barrel (I need to find a pot big enough to boil it in).
 
Well, that shoots my theory down!
As for bluing the barrel, it's tough to find something that it will fit in. I had 2 tanks made up years ago. 6x6x40 seems to be the right length and width.
 
Hi Evan

So the saga continues:)

When I started rust bluing, I used a 40" piece of aluminum(enamel coated) rain gutter as a boiling tank. The ends were capped with rain gutter caps and sealed with high-temperature silicon. Other than been a little tippy, it worked fine over the burners of my camper stove.
 
evster said:
No, it is a Winchester model 12 shotgun. It had gone really rusty and so I thought I would give it a shot. Its all done now except for the barrel (I need to find a pot big enough to boil it in).
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If its "gone really rusty" you never will get a good blue. There's a lot of deep embedded oxide in the surface of rusted steel, even after you clean it up. You need clear bright metal. Use 4-0 steel wool, no coarser. There is a hand art to bringing up a good finish with 4-0 steel wool and 30 weight oil after bluing. Real light buffing, using the heavy oil to float the steel wool. Know when to stop... ;) :)
 
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