Small issues regarding WS-MCR

TheZreturns

TheZreturns

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Hi, just bought a WS-MCR and find it really awesome.

I've installed some cool features on the rifle that was missing for me, like an external Bolt Catch Release and Trigger Anti-walk pin and also a Magpul ACS stock with a Geissele SDE Trigger and a nice Eotech. This is my new favorite non-restricted gun... ;)

Before going on the range with it, I've tried taking down the lower and upper and found out the rear takedown pin is so stiff it cannot be pushed with a bullet and punch by hand. I had to take a hammer with the punch to drive down both lower takedown pins. Is it normal? They are so stiff when they reach last portion of the frame. When they are "free'd" they are OK to move but the minute I put the upper back, I need a hammer and a punch to push them back. Is it a tolerance issue when creating the lower/upper?

Other issue I encountered, I wanted to remove the original A2-bird cage flash hider to put a muzzlebrake on the gun. That A2 is screwed so tight, I cannot remove it by hand with a good 3/4 wrench. I tried hard but I don't want to try too hard and torque negatively the barrel and any other parts... Is there a way to remove it? Clamp it in a vise? Use a torch?

My rifle is in the #3000 series. Maybe it was an early version of the MCR that I bought? My friend got one this year and it was in the #200 000 series, so i'm kinda wondering the rifle I bought was pretty old even if it's new.

Any hints, tricks to help me out?
 
Bman12456 said:
In regards to the muzzle device, clamp the rifle in a vice and use a torch to apply heat to the break and then twist it off.
Click to expand...
Thanks. When you say clamp the rifle. Do you mean the barrel or the actual frame of the rifle? I had the assumption that applying torque to the barrel without a barrel torque tool inside could twist it and other parts also.
 
When you clamp the rifle, clamp the barrel versus the receiver. I have a Savage 110 scout and they way they put the brake on they meant for it never to come off at all. Even with heat I could not remove it. I ended up just hack sawing off the fins of the brake and cleaning it up flush now its just a muzzle protector which is what I wanted anyways so it works.
 
TheZreturns said:
Hi, just bought a WS-MCR and find it really awesome.

I've installed some cool features on the rifle that was missing for me, like an external Bolt Catch Release and Trigger Anti-walk pin and also a Magpul ACS stock with a Geissele SDE Trigger and a nice Eotech. This is my new favorite non-restricted gun... ;)

Before going on the range with it, I've tried taking down the lower and upper and found out the rear takedown pin is so stiff it cannot be pushed with a bullet and punch by hand. I had to take a hammer with the punch to drive down both lower takedown pins. Is it normal? They are so stiff when they reach last portion of the frame. When they are "free'd" they are OK to move but the minute I put the upper back, I need a hammer and a punch to push them back. Is it a tolerance issue when creating the lower/upper?

Other issue I encountered, I wanted to remove the original A2-bird cage flash hider to put a muzzlebrake on the gun. That A2 is screwed so tight, I cannot remove it by hand with a good 3/4 wrench. I tried hard but I don't want to try too hard and torque negatively the barrel and any other parts... Is there a way to remove it? Clamp it in a vise? Use a torch?

My rifle is in the #3000 series. Maybe it was an early version of the MCR that I bought? My friend got one this year and it was in the #200 000 series, so i'm kinda wondering the rifle I bought was pretty old even if it's new.

Any hints, tricks to help me out?
Click to expand...

Sounds like you just need to put your back into it. Lube up the the pin.
 
Trapanese said:
Sounds like you just need to put your back into it. Lube up the the pin.
Click to expand...

LOL :d Don't worry, I have strong hands. It's stiff AF but I'm starting to think it's because it's brand new and pin hasn't been pushed in and out enough.

But I'm telling you it's nowhere smooth as are AR-15 push pins. I've seen Wolverine Supplies takedown YouTube video of the WS-MCR and they push them easily without applying a lot of force.

That's why I was wondering if there was an issue with the tolerance of the pin's holes. Maybe they were made too tight.
 
TheZreturns said:
LOL :d Don't worry, I have strong hands. It's stiff AF but I'm starting to think it's because it's brand new and pin hasn't been pushed in and out enough.

But I'm telling you it's nowhere smooth as are AR-15 push pins. I've seen Wolverine Supplies takedown YouTube video of the WS-MCR and they push them easily without applying a lot of force.

That's why I was wondering if there was an issue with the tolerance of the pin's holes. Maybe they were made too tight.
Click to expand...

In regards to the strong takedown pins. Having extremely tight takedown pins is very common on many rifles. It isn't anything to be concerned about and overtime they should wear just enough for it to become easier. You maybe lucky some owners may have very loose pins and there receiver may even have annoying play.
 
FARMHANDYO said:
In regards to the strong takedown pins. Having extremely tight takedown pins is very common on many rifles. It isn't anything to be concerned about and overtime they should wear just enough for it to become easier. You maybe lucky some owners may have very loose pins and there receiver may even have annoying play.
Click to expand...

Thank you for your input brother. It's appreciated. ;)
 
TheZreturns said:
Hi, just bought a WS-MCR and find it really awesome.

I've installed some cool features on the rifle that was missing for me, like an external Bolt Catch Release and Trigger Anti-walk pin and also a Magpul ACS stock with a Geissele SDE Trigger and a nice Eotech. This is my new favorite non-restricted gun... ;)

Before going on the range with it, I've tried taking down the lower and upper and found out the rear takedown pin is so stiff it cannot be pushed with a bullet and punch by hand. I had to take a hammer with the punch to drive down both lower takedown pins. Is it normal? They are so stiff when they reach last portion of the frame. When they are "free'd" they are OK to move but the minute I put the upper back, I need a hammer and a punch to push them back. Is it a tolerance issue when creating the lower/upper?

Other issue I encountered, I wanted to remove the original A2-bird cage flash hider to put a muzzlebrake on the gun. That A2 is screwed so tight, I cannot remove it by hand with a good 3/4 wrench. I tried hard but I don't want to try too hard and torque negatively the barrel and any other parts... Is there a way to remove it? Clamp it in a vise? Use a torch?

My rifle is in the #3000 series. Maybe it was an early version of the MCR that I bought? My friend got one this year and it was in the #200 000 series, so i'm kinda wondering the rifle I bought was pretty old even if it's new.

Any hints, tricks to help me out?
Click to expand...

If the take down pin is uncomfortably tight, push it out with a pin or punch then use a q-tip with a little valve seating compound or diamond dust polishing compound and open and close the pin to work and smooth it out. It will mate, polish and take any touch edges out the areas nice and smooth and never be an issue again :)

Less is more and wipe it off off when you get to the point you want
 
derek2007 said:
If the take down pin is uncomfortably tight, push it out with a pin or punch then use a q-tip with a little valve seating compound or diamond dust polishing compound and open and close the pin to work and smooth it out. It will mate, polish and take any touch edges out the areas nice and smooth and never be an issue again :)

Less is more and wipe it off off when you get to the point you want
Click to expand...

Thanks for the help... :p
 
Ideally what you want is the tool that goes into the barrel extension to torque against. I didn't have access to one and ended up just welding a nut to the end of the flash hider and using an impact gun.
 
Just got mine a few days ago. The pins are indeed almost an interference fit, very tight. IMO, I would remove the pin to polish it itself before doing anything that may hog out the receivers. MUCH cheaper to replace a pin. Not really a huge issue being tight, but what does irk the OCD is the rear pin is different than the front one that has the bullet notch.
 
Paul Stud said:
Just got mine a few days ago. The pins are indeed almost an interference fit, very tight. IMO, I would remove the pin to polish it itself before doing anything that may hog out the receivers. MUCH cheaper to replace a pin. Not really a huge issue being tight, but what does irk the OCD is the rear pin is different than the front one that has the bullet notch.
Click to expand...
How do you actually remove the pins? They look pinned down at the end.
 
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