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It's usually the owner who may render the revolver inoperable, not the gun itself. Closing the cylinder in the "Hollywood" style, fail to keep your gun clean, use of too powerful reloads - just a few ideas.
Okay I'll bite.
Broken mainspring on a Model 1937 Brazilian issue .45 ACP revolver.
This thing looks like it just about made it to Berlin & back during WW2. And it probably did according to it's serial number.
Changed it out, works like a charm.
Never had one break. The cyclinder can eventually get some play in both directions and the forcing cone can crack...but the only other part that would break and only after 20-30k rounds is a firing pin. At least in my experience.
I went 30,000 rounds in a year through a Model 10, zero issues. I think you have to put a lot of rounds through them before you have issues, the most common being timing, but re-timing a revolver is cheap.
The hammer stud broke on my 3 inch Model 13.
Lots of rounds throught it..mostly 38's.
Not worth the cost of repair which ruins the finish ($160 plus refinishing plus postage, etc.).
Sometimes my .44 Russian DA, manufactured in the 1880s, does not index properly. The cause usually is lead shaving off bullets and accumulating at the forcing cone, which then interferes with rotation of the cylinder.
I wonder if it's off warranty? They just don't build things to last . . .
Not my pistol, but I saw a .38 Spl. with blown out cylinder and top strap. Pretty sure it was double charged. Not the manufacturer's fault. It was offered to me for firearm safety courses, but I can't take a restricted to a non-restricted class.