Snider Enfield reloading quirk

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I have been using plastic 24 quage shot shells to reload for my Snider. I decided to get some brass hulls just for the look. The red plastic hulls look out of place when I am on a black powder shoot. Turns out, the brass casings were 20 thou larger on the od than the plastic. They don't even come close to fitting in my chamber.
Just a heads up in case anybody thought to try it.
 
I just finished fabbing up a bunch of Snider brass and sorry friend, that is standard that they are oversize and will not fit.
I do have the capability to form brass , so I will give you fair cost or perhaps form them for you for a fair price / trade.
 
All brass cases need to be sized before loading. They're not ready to load out of the factory Sounds like you need a set of .577 Snider dies.
 
It's true that I need to size the brass. I can borrow a set of Snider dies but I thought that as the plastic hulls fit, so would the off the shelf 24g brass.
Thanks guys.
 
You need a bigger press too 1.25" hole with 12 tpi. Original case should be 2" long as well

Edit; and do try the cardboard tube trick, it works quite well IMO. Thanks Smellie, credit where credit is due.
It's an original Snider loading trick. A piece of (non-corrugated) cardboard 0.030 thick by 1.25" long X 1.70" ( the last # is my reckoning, worked for me ). I rolled it around an 8 x 57 case so the 1.25" is top to bottom and thus the 1.7" is the circumference.
Insert it into the formed brass and give it a 'stir' to expand it around the ID. Deposit 80 gr of FFG into the case. Fills it right up to the bottom of the Lee hollow base 530 gr.
Fill the Hollow base with wax to ward against an air gap in the loaded round.
Insert the bullet so the lube rings are just above the edge of the case and drip wax into the rings. The excess wax will nicely allow the case to grip the bullet upon running it into the seating die. Without this the Lee dies or the Lee bullet size or a combination of the two...won't grab the bullet securely enough to call it a successfully loaded round. It'll spin and likely fall in or out I've found
The card board tube can be made a tad longer so the bullet ( or ball if you'd like) will rest on the edges of the tube; holding it in place til it's run through the seating die. This will reduce your load somewhat, but that may be to your liking. You could (with patience) likely tailor loads to your desires.
BTW, I've found that welding rod boxes, being more robust are a perfect building material for this trick.
 
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What I have is a smooth bore Egyptian Police Snider. I wonder about these as some of the smooth bores were cut from rifled bores.
This one seems to have been an original smooth bore. I have to cut the plastic shot shells down to 1 3/4" as a 2" just won't go. I use .577 round ball (snug in the bore) and 45 gn of Hodgon triple seven. I've never used black powder as none of the local stores carry it. Fairly accurate to 50 yards. I do wonder if the chamber is cut different than the rifled bores.
 
points said:
What I have is a smooth bore Egyptian Police Snider. I wonder about these as some of the smooth bores were cut from rifled bores.
This one seems to have been an original smooth bore. I have to cut the plastic shot shells down to 1 3/4" as a 2" just won't go. I use .577 round ball (snug in the bore) and 45 gn of Hodgon triple seven. I've never used black powder as none of the local stores carry it. Fairly accurate to 50 yards. I do wonder if the chamber is cut different than the rifled bores.
Click to expand...

most of the smooth bore guns have been bored out so they should be around .600" or so. also if you cant use real black powder use pyrodex but id just order black powder(there is a goex dealer close to the lower BC area)
 
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