Whats the downsized? Zinc leeched brass?
It does have it's benefits, and I don't want to rain on your parade, just knowing the side effects a bit better can save frustration.
We all know the good sides so I don't need to elaborate on them, on top of taking care of lead dust found in dry tumbling.
The fact I went back to dry was heart breaking for the lead dust.
When I had initially switched to wet, I immediately notice quite a bit more resistance running my 40SW ammo in my Dillon 650.
I then had to start doing something I never did before, lube pistol brass.
Which eventually gums everything up, as my Dillon lanolin based lube gets sticky.
This was o.k. and was ready to live with it, as I had shinny new looking brass in and out, without any lead dust fumes in my home.
Where things got tricky was when I started reloading single stage 308.
I really had these neck sizing irregularities, neck turning problems, and bullet seating irregular resistance to seat bullets.
After many threads wanting to know what was going wrong in my setup, where I was blaming dies and neck turning pilots, Mystic Precision asked for my full process and pointed out it was caused by wet tumbling.
The cure for this, was graphite based dry lube.
Never got there.
As when I got the old dusty setup back out, processing all my precision rifle ammo literally became a breeze without effrot.
And I had forgot how smooth and easy a Dillon 650 could be.
As when I dry tumble, I do it with a cap of nu finish, which really gives the brass some luster and makes it ''slippery'' in my dies and equipment.
And wet tumbled brass was ''sticky'', too clean it would catch on anything without lube.
My experience, opinion and 0.02$, YMMV, but going wet, make sure you get some good lube that isn't too sticky for pistol in a progressive, and dry graphite for a rifle on a single stage (as you don't want neck interiors wet)