So I got one of those .75 caliber Brown Bess reproductions about a year ago.

sean69

sean69

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so I got one of those .75 caliber Brown Bess reproductions about a year ago....

Never shot it, where can I get all the little extras I need in Canada?

- worm
- bullet puller
- jag
- ram rod/cleaning rod
- pan tools
- face scraper? [I'm not sure what this is called, the tool to scrape the inside face of the breech...

-thanks
 
I don't use any of that stuff, I have an improvised cleaning rod made out of a coat hanger with a loop on the end that I put a rag on.

These guns are really easy to clean. I did a dry ball one time so what I did was worked some 3F into the chamber and blew the ball out, came out at hand throwing speed which was funny but it worked well.

Look up Rusty wood Trading company, he should have some stuff you want.
 
Just a word of advice.

Don't load it up with a max charge and pull the trigger for your first shot.

At least unless you find shooting a 12 gauge super mag with a 3 1/2" Turkey load to be "enjoyable" :)
 
thanks!

found everything I needed [or felt I needed] and then some at track of the wolf ...

I was surprised they had the .75 balls! have not seen them anywhere before!! :)
 
I just ordered a 1728 transnational Bess in 75 caliber from Loyalist Arms. Have been shooting 54 flint locks and cap locks for quite a while now. As for the answer to your question. Try Track of the Wolf, just google it and it will come up. It is in the states but they will have everything U need. If you patch your ball for more accuracy U may at some time or other need a ball puller if you dry ball. (of course nobody ever does that) You will need a cleaning jag for sure. Also I would look at a vent pick and pan brush. As for a scraper, I have never used one as my rifles have a patten breach and I use a 30 cal nylon brush warped with a flannel patch. In my one muzzle loader it does not have a patten breach and I still have never used a scraper. Just clean with hot soapy water, rinse until patch comes out clean, patch out dry and run sweet oil (olive oil) down the bore.
Let me know how your first range day goes. I do believe that the Bess shoots best if it is 76 caliber with a 596 grain .735 ball and .010thou patch and 120 grains of 2F with an over powder wad. (after proofing your barrel) You will have to try different loads, patch thickness ect. The bess can be made to shoot pretty good. Taylor Sapergia our local muzzle loader Guru in Prince George got a moose at 100 or so meters with his bess and a PRB..
 
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sean69 said:
thanks!

found everything I needed [or felt I needed] and then some at track of the wolf ...

I was surprised they had the .75 balls! have not seen them anywhere before!! :)
Click to expand...
Roll yur own get yourself a Lyman 75 cal ball mold and a electric lead furnace.
 
I did to get everything I felt I needed from TOTW ... for the cost of the scrapers, jags, worms ... it really wasn't worth it to ~NOT~ have them handy ;) I also did a carbon fiber cleaning/ram rod .. not 100% thrilled with the steel one provided!
The balls I have were cast for me, just around .738 so the .735 were the closest match. should be fine with a patch :)

ummmm 2F you say? I use 3F for my revolvers, no loads for 3F? [and I'm guessing it's 5F to prime the pan?]


Proofing? please elaborate, the flint lock is new to me, my thoughts were a couple rounds of just powder & no ball to make sure it actually functions then start light loads and work up!




eaglesnester said:
I just ordered a 1728 transnational Bess in 75 caliber from Loyalist Arms. Have been shooting 54 flint locks and cap locks for quite a while now. As for the answer to your question. Try Track of the Wolf, just google it and it will come up. It is in the states but they will have everything U need. If you patch your ball for more accuracy U may at some time or other need a ball puller if you dry ball. (of course nobody ever does that) You will need a cleaning jag for sure. Also I would look at a vent pick and pan brush. As for a scraper, I have never used one as my rifles have a patten breach and I use a 30 cal nylon brush warped with a flannel patch. In my one muzzle loader it does not have a patten breach and I still have never used a scraper. Just clean with hot soapy water, rinse until patch comes out clean, patch out dry and run sweet oil (olive oil) down the bore.
Let me know how your first range day goes. I do believe that the Bess shoots best if it is 76 caliber with a 596 grain .735 ball and .010thou patch and 120 grains of 2F. (after proofing your barrel) You will have to try different loads, patch thickness ect. The bess can be made to shoot pretty good. Taylor Sapergia our local muzzle loader Guru in Prince George got a moose at 100 or so meters with his bess and a PRB..
Click to expand...
 
sean69 said:
I did to get everything I felt I needed from TOTW ... for the cost of the scrapers, jags, worms ... it really wasn't worth it to ~NOT~ have them handy ;) I also did a carbon fiber cleaning/ram rod .. not 100% thrilled with the steel one provided!
The balls I have were cast for me, just around .738 so the .735 were the closest match. should be fine with a patch :)

ummmm 2F you say? I use 3F for my revolvers, no loads for 3F? [and I'm guessing it's 5F to prime the pan?]


Proofing? please elaborate, the flint lock is new to me, my thoughts were a couple rounds of just powder & no ball to make sure it actually functions then start light loads and work up!
Click to expand...

3f is not the greatest in a long gun 4f to prime the pan(there is no 5f) but you can use the same powder in the pan as the barrel if its a good fast lock that throws a lot of sparks. proofing is loading past the max charge and loading a heavier projectile to make sure the guns is strong enough its not needed if you have a name brand gun(pedersoli) and its not really needed at all here in Canada other places need a proof done(uk)
 
antiqueguy said:
3f is not the greatest in a long gun 4f to prime the pan(there is no 5f) but you can use the same powder in the pan as the barrel if its a good fast lock that throws a lot of sparks. proofing is loading past the max charge and loading a heavier projectile to make sure the guns is strong enough its not needed if you have a name brand gun(pedersoli) and its not really needed at all here in Canada other places need a proof done(uk)
Click to expand...

ahh... ok. 2F, probably don't need priming powder or maybe "will just have to find out" ` gotcha.

it's one of these http://www.militaryheritage.com/musket6.htm Long Land pattern BB ... a bit of digging around turns out they were manufactured in india. At one point I did have the barrel out & it had a 1970s date on it ... wouldn't have been proofed cause I had to drill out the touch hole myself.
 
sean69 said:
ahh... ok. 2F, probably don't need priming powder or maybe "will just have to find out" ` gotcha.

it's one of these http://www.militaryheritage.com/musket6.htm Long Land pattern BB ... a bit of digging around turns out they were manufactured in india. At one point I did have the barrel out & it had a 1970s date on it ... wouldn't have been proofed cause I had to drill out the touch hole myself.
Click to expand...

well I hope you drilled it right or else it will not be 100% on ignition im leery of the Indian imports I don't know if id even want to proof one using a standard load it will most likely be fine id still tie it to a tire and test it with a few loads measuring the barrel before hand and after
 
Proofing your Bess

I do believe that in order to proof. Load it up with 120% over max charge. (120grains 2f normal charge). The musket will need to be strapped down to a suitable bench and remotely touched off with a long string on the trigger. If she holds that charge with no chamber or barrel bulging I would then find someone to NDT the tube. As for barrel bulging I would mike the chamber, forward of the chamber, midway down the barrel, and at the muzzle before firing and after firing and compare readings with a good vernier caliper. The places measured should be marked with a magic marker so U can measure at the exact same places. Any bulging from pressure will be immediately obvious. Also check over the entire tube for signs of cracks etc.
The above post is a guess from previous research. When I receive my 1728 transitional brown bess from Loyalist Arms the proofing data with instructions on how to will be included in the order. I will post this info when I receive it.
 
When I test fire a barrel, I prefer to remove it from the stock. Strap it to a 2x4 with a block behind the breech. Sandbag it in place. If the barrel were to fail, the rest of the gun survives, or, there is no risk of the excessive recoil damaging the stock.
Fire with a fuse, or electrically. Use a length of 2 wire flex, with a wisp of steel wool across the bared ends. Contact a 9v battery on the other. The steel wool will incandesce and fire the priming powder heaped on the touch hole.
Birmingham Proof House standards can be easily found.
I generally fire twice, with this routine: double charge of powder, one projectile or shot charge; and single charge of powder, and double projectile load. Make sure projectiles are touching, no gap. I use this routine because it duplicates the easiest to make charging errors.
 
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