So i'm mixing a homebrew parkerizing solution...

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Smcx

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I've taken my norc government apart, and smoothed the rough edges.

Tomorrow i'm going to try to remove the bluing with a vinegar bath.

After the bath, it will be straight into the 'solution'

I've cut up about a dozen zinc pennies, and let them dissolve in a phosphoric acid cleaner i got from home hardware. It looks like that stuff is ~5% by volume. Does anyone have any idea of what the concentration should be for the parkerizing process? I'm kinda scared it'll be too strong, and etch off too much steel.
I should park all the parts except the firing pin/barrel/springs/ejector, correct?


Thx!
 
Try stewing a prepped piece of clean scrap steel and see how it works.
I wouldn't Park. the sear or disconnector.
I have used the Radocy product with satisfaction. Always blasted parts first, and then put them right into the bath while clean.
 
I find the Radocy too grey for my taste, but it works good. I use 2oz phosphoric acid, a couple of shot glasses of powdered manganese and a piece of steel wool per gallon of distilled water I bring the water to 180f and add the ingredients, and let it stew for about 20 minutes before adding the parts. I like to heat the parts before I add them just to minimize temp drop. Give it 15-20 minutes an have a look. Making your own juice can be fiddly, and I find the results vary, but I generally have had good luck. If the scrap steel comes out looking sparkly, you have too much acid. You get the acid at any hydroponics store and the manganese at a pottery supply outlet (most sell on line, it's not hazardous or anything).
 
Wow. Vinegar works pretty good!

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Too late now, but there's no need to remove the bluing first. It doesn't add thickness like parkerizing does. The first dip tank is for degreasing and shouldn't have anything in it that will remove metal.
Zinc based(pennies aren't pure enough) parkerizing gives shades of grey. The shade depends on the metal it goes on. Manganese gives black. The Machinery's Handbook($130ish, I think, in Chapters.) has the exact formula for all kinds of metal colouring solutions. Most of which contain lots of really nasty chemicals.
 
What? No need to remove the bluing?!?

It's cooking on the BBQ right now. I figure the acid is about 3-4% by volume. It's fizzing. Hope I don't make everything 25% smaller LOL
 
Aaaaaaaarrrrgh!

Didn't work so well :(
Splotchy and the coating that built up just rubbed off. Maybe because I couldn't get the solution up to temp? I was having a tough time getting up to 150 on the bbq.

I'll strip it and try again tomorrow.
 
Not familiar with this process .. my dad hot blues in the basement. Havnt ever actually watched the process. Anyway , Is there to many fumes to do this in the oven ? maybe easier keep it at 150 degrees ?

Interesting thread ...
 
Yeah it needs to be done outside. It looks like the solution has to be above 175. I'm hoping that I can redo the process after degreasing (i had to stop to take my son to hockey so I soaked everything in wd-40)

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Looks old and beat up lol!
 
Process quick rundown

Make park solution:
Snip up a dozen or so zinc pennies (us) and dissolve them in the only phosphoric acid i could find
Safety acid cleaner from home hardware. Apparently ~6% acid solution.

Disassemble and dehorn using a file.
Degrease
Soak in white vinegar, scrub occasionally.
Go over with 000 steel wool, rinse.

Heat 1 liter or water in a stainless pot on the bbq
Add 1 liter park solution
Add half a biscuit of degreased steel wool
(Didn't wait for solution to get hot enough)

Added gun, watched it fizz for 30 minutes

Removed from solution, rinsed and scrubbed, soaked in wd-40.

Whew. Lot of typing on an iphone.
 
Yes, temperature is important.
You might want to try parking a blasted or etched surface.
That is a lot of sludge.
 
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