Source for Good Silver Solder

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angrygopher

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I want to do change a Rem 700 bolt from the standard to a tactical bolt and the manufacturer is recommending silver solder. I can get the "Shark" brand easily but I consider it to be lower quality since it's a roll of soft wire and some very nasty flux. I'm looking for the 'stiff' wire version of the silver solder.
 
I get mine on Brownells. Dont forget the thermal paste. But yes, silver solder is the way to go for a rem700 bolt handle.
 
I use the silver/flux paste from Brownells.
You will also need a positioning jig and a heat sink.
Prep the surfaces, apply the paste, clamp the handle in place, heat with O/A torch. Have the front end of the bolt wrapped in wet rags. You can also use anti-scale compound to protect the bolt body.
 
There are not quite as many types of silver solder as there are welding rods, but close. If you buy the rod, and the flux, from the same source, you have at least a decent chance of them being compatible.

Any welding supplies house should be able to provide, if you can tell them what you want.

Funny story. I was asked, after a neighbor spent two days running a garage sale, if I did any welding, and did I want some welding rod. The package I was given was 2 KG of flux coated silver solder rods, that he could not sell for $5 over the weekend. Over 50% silver content!

Anyways, if not at the welding supply house, a Jewellery or rockhound supply place is another option. Bedrock Supply in Edmonton was my go-to when I was out that way.
 
Google Western Metal out of Alberta. They used to be a banner supporter at the top of the page. I don't see their banner anymore.

They will have everything you need and be able to advise you on whats best.
 
Just wondering, why can't you use regular solder?
It won't get that hot and for a bolt handle plenty strong.
Also less heat needed to solder so that might be better for the bolt .
 
bertn said:
Just wondering, why can't you use regular solder?
It won't get that hot and for a bolt handle plenty strong.
Also less heat needed to solder so that might be better for the bolt .
Click to expand...

Because regular solder doesn't come close to making the strength required for attaching a 700 bolt handle.
 
tiriaq said:
I use the silver/flux paste from Brownells.
You will also need a positioning jig and a heat sink.
Prep the surfaces, apply the paste, clamp the handle in place, heat with O/A torch. Have the front end of the bolt wrapped in wet rags. You can also use anti-scale compound to protect the bolt body.
Click to expand...

Shudder shudder... I still have a bag of powdered asbestos I use ... a paste of water and powdered asbestos works well for protecting the front of the bolt...
 
The horror! I can imagine the clouds of asbestos..
When my younger brother was in grade school, they used an asbestos based putty for modelling.

There is also heat control paste that can be applied to the bolt parts not involved in the actual silver brazing.
I have never had a handle come off that I installed using the method described above. Knock on wood. I prefer the paste to wire or sheet silver solder. Sheet is better than wire, if that is what is available. Just snip a little piece to fit. But having really good flux is critical.

There are those who TIG weld handles on. I have no experience with this.

Personally, I would not remove a factory 700 handle just to change the style. Easy enough to install an extended knob.

The handles I've installed have been either repairs, rebuilds, or new handles being installed on PT&G bodies. A PT&G body with a Holland style extended handle is excellent.
 
That should work a treat. Darn near a lifetime supply.

Price for the kit?

Fitting the parts together, you want a tiny little bit of space between them for the solder to flow in to. A friend of mine, who was a welding instructor at NAIT, suggested a couple center punch marks to get pretty much the right amount of clearance. The raised dots of the punch marks will hold your parts off from each other as the solder flows.
 
trevj said:
That should work a treat. Darn near a lifetime supply.

Price for the kit?

Fitting the parts together, you want a tiny little bit of space between them for the solder to flow in to. A friend of mine, who was a welding instructor at NAIT, suggested a couple center punch marks to get pretty much the right amount of clearance. The raised dots of the punch marks will hold your parts off from each other as the solder flows.
Click to expand...

You're right, the punch method works well but I've found the space between the handle and bolt body is just about perfect with the thickness of the flux. Each to his own.

Unlike tiriaq and guntech, I haven't done a lot of them, maybe a couple of dozen over the last twenty years. Proper positioning is critical when attaching the new handle. I have a 700 receiver that was in a fire. Cleaned it up to use as a positioning jig and it also doubles as a heat sink. I still place a flexible ice pack, wrapped in a wet towel over the exposed bolt body and receiver ring. Yeah, I know anal, but I haven't had one come off.
 
trevj said:
That should work a treat. Darn near a lifetime supply.

Price for the kit?

Fitting the parts together, you want a tiny little bit of space between them for the solder to flow in to. A friend of mine, who was a welding instructor at NAIT, suggested a couple center punch marks to get pretty much the right amount of clearance. The raised dots of the punch marks will hold your parts off from each other as the solder flows.
Click to expand...

Just guessing (I bought through work), about $50, probably a bit less. Also found that Acklands sells heat control paste for about $16 for 11 ounces. (uniweld 91861)

ETA - the solder that Western Metals sells is $10 cheaper than what Praxair wanted to sell it to me for. So if you're looking for just solder, I'd buy it from Western Metals rather than having to bargain.
 
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angrygopher said:
Just guessing (I bought through work), about $50, probably a bit less. Also found that Acklands sells heat control paste for about $16 for 11 ounces. (uniweld 91861)

ETA - the solder that Western Metals sells is $10 cheaper than what Praxair wanted to sell it to me for. So if you're looking for just solder, I'd buy it from Western Metals rather than having to bargain.
Click to expand...

Meh. At $50, the price will be forgot long before the usefulness wears off the stuff.
IIRC the flux dries out and is resurrected with a little water, when it does.
 
I should clarify, I'm going to install a TacOp's bolt stud & knob. I don't have the skills to replace the entire handle. I'm not even sure I should attempt this, my drill press and vice are pretty rudimentary and I'm pretty fussy.
 
I am not familiar with that conversion.
When I install an extended bolt knob, I jig the bolt up in the lathe, turn the knob down to create a shank, thread it, and then screw on the replacement knob. Here is the jig:
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The large cylindrical portion of the jig is clamed in the three jaw chuck. The bolt body is clamped in the angled grooves, with the shank aligned with, and supported by, the tailstock. No soldering or brazing is involved. Loctite could be used if desired. The three knobs were turned out of scrap barrel.
 

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OP,
Any silver braze to be used on firearms needs to be Cadmium type(1400*F) for it's capillary/wetting action.
Cadmium Free silver braze(1200*F) is a waste of time & money.

Don't transfer too much heat through the handle doing your Non Standard Thread(5/16-18tpi) TactiKool knob modification,or the handle will fall off the bolt body.
Industry standard thread is 5/16-24tpi for TactiKool knobs.

Remington cast handles have voids/inclusions,thread accordingly.

Precision TIG welding works....best !!
 
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DANS40X said:
OP,
Any silver braze to be used on firearms needs to be Cadmium type(1400*F) for it's capillary/wetting action.
Cadmium Free silver braze(1200*F) is a waste of time & money.

Don't transfer too much heat through the handle doing your Non Standard Thread(5/16-18tpi) TactiKool knob modification,or the handle will fall off the bolt body.
Industry standard thread is 5/16-24tpi for TactiKool knobs.

Remington cast handles have voids/inclusions,thread accordingly.

Precision TIG welding works....best !!
Click to expand...

Buying cadmium silver solder these days gets you about the same looks as asking for asbestos insulation for the Day Care Center you are building.

Temperature has to do with the silver content, nothing whatsoever to do with the cadmium content.
 
As a smith. I find that with the proper jig I can get the best strength and a clean finish using a 3/32 6013 rod and DC weld the work. DC gives a near tig finish and superior strength to silver soldering with less fuss
 
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