Spare Parts Kits For XCR-L?

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One Lung Wonder

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I understand you folks at Wolverine might have put together a few parts kits? Do you still have some for sale?

Also I understand that rubber buffer is a wear item and mine seems to be acting up. Can a guy buy spares of those? I would be surprised if I had more than 200 rounds go through the gun before mine started acting up and tying up the gun.

Hope all is well with you guys and happy new year!
 
One Lung Wonder said:
I understand you folks at Wolverine might have put together a few parts kits? Do you still have some for sale?

Also I understand that rubber buffer is a wear item and mine seems to be acting up. Can a guy buy spares of those? I would be surprised if I had more than 200 rounds go through the gun before mine started acting up and tying up the gun.

Hope all is well with you guys and happy new year!
Click to expand...

We can make up spare parts kits from the parts that we carry, I have none made up at the moment and will not have anyone spare to do this for a few weeks. We are also working a complete spare parts price list but we have other priorities so again this will be a few weeks. Buffers should last for several thousand rds , I would recommend you check your gas setting, you should be operating your rifle on the lowest possible setting, we have spare buffers in stock.
 
thanks for getting me the trigger parts for mine to remedy the "trigger slap" issue.....I installed them easily and the trigger spring seems waay stronger you sent as I had a bit of pressing to get it in-line for the pin....
I haven't got it out to the range yet, but when I do ill keep you updated......thanks again...great service.....and you stand behind your products :)

I also would buy a full spare kit for my XCR-L, so ill keep an eye out for the kits....Also as I mentioned in another thread, maybe you guys could put out a video explaining the differences between old and new xcr-l's and show some maintanence and gas settings,spare parts...as well as upgrades. Its hard for some reason to find much info online...so this would be a real help...

thanks again
 
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slim123 said:
thanks for getting me the trigger parts for mine to remedy the "trigger slap" issue.....I installed them easily and the trigger spring seems waay stronger you sent as I had a bit of pressing to get it in-line for the pin....
I haven't got it out to the range yet, but when I do ill keep you updated......thanks again...great service.....and you stand behind your products :)

I also would buy a full spare kit for my XCR-L, so ill keep an eye out for the kits....Also as I mentioned in another thread, maybe you guys could put out a video explaining the differences between old and new xcr-l's and show some maintanence and gas settings,spare parts...as well as upgrades. Its hard for some reason to find much info online...so this would be a real help...

thanks again
Click to expand...

X2

I've kinda sorta been looking for more info on the XCR-L on the internet and not a lot comes up! I think there was a Youtuber from our friends at Wolverine but I would like to see a 'Getting To Know Your XCR-L' vid too! As I said, I have less than 200 rounds through this gun and I am the original owner. I will back off the gas and see what happens...hey, does temperature have an effect on gas settings? I get cabin fever really badly in the winter and have taken my guns out in stupid weather...do I need to be aware of anything with this rifle...? And what is this trigger slap issue about?
 
I would also like to know exactly what the trigger slap is. I have maybe 300-350 rounds through mine purchased from you guys in September or October. All I know is I'm not a huge fan of how the trigger acts and would like a good aftermarket option which from what I have heard they are nonexistent. Thanks.
 
One Lung Wonder said:
X2

I've kinda sorta been looking for more info on the XCR-L on the internet and not a lot comes up! I think there was a Youtuber from our friends at Wolverine but I would like to see a 'Getting To Know Your XCR-L' vid too! As I said, I have less than 200 rounds through this gun and I am the original owner. I will back off the gas and see what happens...hey, does temperature have an effect on gas settings? I get cabin fever really badly in the winter and have taken my guns out in stupid weather...do I need to be aware of anything with this rifle...? And what is this trigger slap issue about?
Click to expand...

my gas was on 4...and I noticed some heavy deterioration on my buffer, so I dropped it down to 1.... you shouldn't have too many issues in cold weather, I would maybe just make sure its clean, and run it fairly dry with minimal lubrication.....should be fine. Also with mine I had to have the chamber polished up by a gunsmith to reliably extract 7.62x39 surplus...it didn't seem to like the lacquered cases and had quite a few jams....the polishing cleared it up...
the "trigger slap" is an issue that some have found...on mine the trigger would give a really heavy vibration after each pull, during recoil....it seems to kinda "sing" the trigger finger........made it tough to be accurate. Grumpy wolverine saw a post from me about this and they put me in touch with their gunsmith who I emailed my ser# and model# and they shipped me out a new set of trigger springs..free...and they said if I have any issues replacing them...just send the lower to them to install and test..
the new spring was a lot stronger as I noticed this pressing it into place...compared to the one I took out...

Yeah, for some reason there is very little info online about the XCR's....plenty of overall reviews.....but almost nothing about parts or upgrades....., I also would like to see a ground up video..starting with basics...all the way thru to upgrades...especially about differences between old versions..and new ones...since mine is a older version..
 
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I read somewhere online that rob arms is developing their own match trigger as a drop in replacement...they want to keep the price around 80 bucks US...to make it an affordable upgrade option. They said it would be available soon, but no exact ETA
 
Thanks for your comments, we will work on doing some informative XCR videos in the future.

The first myth to dispel is operating these rifles (or any rifle) with the gas setting on maximum, this is wrong, this just "hammers" the rifle unnecessarily. Always keep the gas setting on the lowest setting that the rifle will operate reliably on.

My second point is the importance of keeping your bolt and bolt carrier assembly well lubed. Under are extreme cold for short term use you can change to WD40 but this is not a true lubricant, the best is to clean your bolt and then change to dry graphite.

More to follow :)
 
Hey Gunnutz, I'm having a bit of a chuckle over the XCR parts kit request, concerning a gun with 200 rounds through it ;).

Fwiw, in my experience with my XCR, at a little over 18,000 rounds through it, the only parts you may want on hand, are springs and maybe a recoil buffer.
My hammer spring broke, the replacement was upgraded to the x39 surplus spring. Was always a x39 upper/rifle but the hammer spring was the same as my friends .223 rifle. The upgraded spring has lasted over 10,000 rounds.
My recoil buffer is original, and still looks new.

The day I bought the gun, I took it out with the sole purpose of figuring things out, i.e. the gas setting. That's what the day was dedicated to, and it took all of 2 hours to break the gun in and learn that 1 was too low and 3 gave me trigger slap. It ran on 2 for thousands of rounds, it's now on 1. That said, it's not a set it and forget it, system.

The easiest way to learn the gun, is to induce failures as well as inducing what can be obnoxious trigger slap. Try the gun on 4, 3, 2, 1, and even S. Figure out what causes what. It's easier to do it on your terms than waiting for the gun to stop cycling, then wondering why. Or wondering why the buffer is torn.

Ambient temp shouldn't affect the gas system, different brands of ammo will.

Learn the gun, so when it talks to you, you know what it's saying.
 
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Yup, this is a great post.
9x19p said:
Hey Gunnutz, I'm having a bit of a chuckle over the XCR parts kit request, concerning a gun with 200 rounds through it ;).

Fwiw, in my experience with my XCR, at a little over 18,000 rounds through it, the only parts you may want on hand, are springs and maybe a recoil buffer.
My hammer spring broke, the replacement was upgraded to the x39 surplus spring. Was always a x39 upper/rifle but the hammer spring was the same as my friends .223 rifle. The upgraded spring has lasted over 10,000 rounds.
My recoil buffer is original, and still looks new.

The day I bought the gun, I took it out with the sole purpose of figuring things out, i.e. the gas setting. That's what the day was dedicated to, and it took all of 2 hours to break the gun in and learn that 1 was too low and 3 gave me trigger slap. It ran on 2 for thousands of rounds, it's now on 1. That said, it's not a set it and forget it, system.

The easiest way to learn the gun, is to induce failures as well as inducing what can be obnoxious trigger slap. Try the gun on 4, 3, 2, 1, and even S. Figure out what causes what. It's easier to do it on your terms than waiting for the gun to stop cycling, then wondering why. Or wondering why the buffer is torn.

Ambient temp shouldn't affect the gas system, different brands of ammo will.

Learn the gun, so when it talks to you, you know what it's saying.
Click to expand...
 
9x19p said:
Hey Gunnutz, I'm having a bit of a chuckle over the XCR parts kit request, concerning a gun with 200 rounds through it ;).

Fwiw, in my experience with my XCR, at a little over 18,000 rounds through it, the only parts you may want on hand, are springs and maybe a recoil buffer.
My hammer spring broke, the replacement was upgraded to the x39 surplus spring. Was always a x39 upper/rifle but the hammer spring was the same as my friends .223 rifle. The upgraded spring has lasted over 10,000 rounds.
My recoil buffer is original, and still looks new.

The day I bought the gun, I took it out with the sole purpose of figuring things out, i.e. the gas setting. That's what the day was dedicated to, and it took all of 2 hours to break the gun in and learn that 1 was too low and 3 gave me trigger slap. It ran on 2 for thousands of rounds, it's now on 1. That said, it's not a set it and forget it, system.

The easiest way to learn the gun, is to induce failures as well as inducing what can be obnoxious trigger slap. Try the gun on 4, 3, 2, 1, and even S. Figure out what causes what. It's easier to do it on your terms than waiting for the gun to stop cycling, then wondering why. Or wondering why the buffer is torn.

Ambient temp shouldn't affect the gas system, different brands of ammo will.

Learn the gun, so when it talks to you, you know what it's saying.
Click to expand...

thanks...best and most informative response yet :) maybe write some more to inform the rest of us...I think that's the first time I ever saw anybody explain the xcr gas system anywhere on the net :) (this is the first rifle I have owned with an adjustable gas block...the others were all not adjustable, so when I get an issue....it just doesn't pop into my head to check it...it will from now on)

btw.....I don't want the parts kit because I require it.....I want it in case I need it, so I have it on hand for a quick repair with no down time.

Call me weird ........I guess I'm just a pro active thinker :) I have spare parts for every long arm and handgun I own :)

cheers
 
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Well I'm starting to feel better about the gun now. A little info goes a long way! Can somebody explain to me though - what exactly is 'trigger slap'?

Dunno if I'll get 18000 rounds through it but I will bet I put a good 5000 through it before I flog it...
 
yep..kinda sucks to drop a ton of cake on a rifle...and then have issues...thankfully these were small issues corrected with a little info (and some GREAT dealer service).....hope to see more info soon. Gotta wonder how many ppl out there are bashing the xcr's with opinions based on misinformation or lack of information...

shoot mine in the bush mostly, but the few times I had it at the range I have been approached by ppl asking me about it...and telling me that they hear nothing good about them..

thanks for all the info..hope to see a lot more soon....cant wait to get it out to the bush again :)
 
One Lung Wonder said:
Well I'm starting to feel better about the gun now. A little info goes a long way! Can somebody explain to me though - what exactly is 'trigger slap'?

Dunno if I'll get 18000 rounds through it but I will bet I put a good 5000 through it before I flog it...
Click to expand...

Happens on some trigger and disconnect or designs, during trigger reset ... typically when a semi auto gas operated gun is over gassed.

ak47_trigger_slap.png
 
Mr Wolverine said:
Thanks for your comments, we will work on doing some informative XCR videos in the future.

The first myth to dispel is operating these rifles (or any rifle) with the gas setting on maximum, this is wrong, this just "hammers" the rifle unnecessarily. Always keep the gas setting on the lowest setting that the rifle will operate reliably on.

My second point is the importance of keeping your bolt and bolt carrier assembly well lubed. Under are extreme cold for short term use you can change to WD40 but this is not a true lubricant, the best is to clean your bolt and then change to dry graphite.

More to follow :)
Click to expand...

Mr Wolverine- NO GRAPHITE- please. Graphite reacts negatively with aluminum over time, and is NOT recommended by major manufacturers for any weapon system.

Having been in the army for quite some time, and using various weapon systems down to -50C, GUN OIL is the way to go. I have also used Safariland brand CLP which is rated to -59C, but usually I use straight gun oil. Either the provided machine gun oil, or little bottles from canadian tire. Keep the bolt face dry, and everything else can be normally lubricated (not dripping).

Keep the piston head dry for sure. WD40 is alright for the trigger group as it is hydrophobic, but only if it has been or is likely to be somehow soaked.

Below is a bit right from the RA manual:

"Use lubricant that works well in all operating temperatures. Lubricate only the bolt shaft, the driving band and bolt rails of the bolt carrier, and the flat sides of the operating rod. The manufacturer uses 30W synthetic motor oil. NOTE: A lot of lubricant is necessary during the initial 300 round break in period. Afterward, only a light coat of lubricant is needed.
B. A small amount of lubricant can be used on the contact areas of the fire control parts and on the shaft of the safety selector during break in. After break in, these parts do not need to be lubricated."
 
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