Anyone like to give up one of there old/spare reloading manuals.... I am thinking about getting into the reloading thing and have been reading alot about it on this forum and thoughout the net... 1st piece of advice is always get a manual, but before I dish out $40 or so on one, I am hoping someone wouldn't mind giving an older version up/one that they have not used in a while... I live in the southern ontario and would be happy to pay for the shipping... If no-one has one maybe you can recommend one that is informative and not to expensive....thanks
spare reloading manual?????
- Thread starter fratri
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- Winnipeg,Man.
The shipping to you would be almost the cost of a new book. most shooting supply stores would have a choice of several . Buy a couple, if you do not get into the reloading....you can easily resell on EE.
The data in reloading manuals can change over the yrs as performance/specs on a particular propellant,example H4350,can change to a point where data given for a particular powder in a 20 yr old manual may no longer be valid for the same powder which is being produced and sold today.Besides,new propellants are always being introduced and the data for them can only be found in a current manual. One or two current manuals are always the best investment that a beginning handloader can make. Same problem with getting uncertified reloading data for nothing from various internet sources. The data that you find in a current manufacturer's manual is certified to be both safe and accurate.These should be the first concerns of anyone who wants to experiment with a 50,000 PSI pressure bloom 5-6 inches in front of their face.Beyond that the manuals are an excellent tutorial which explain every aspect of the reloading process in a detailed and logical fashion.
Only in the gun in which they were developed,not in all guns of that chambering.That is why there is a disclaimer in virtually every manual,that plainly states that the loads in the manual may not be safe in all guns.That is why all manuals instruct the reader to begin with a starting load and work up from there.
But for load data, it's pretty hard to beat Hodgdon's very significant website:
http://data.hodgdon.com/main_menu.asp
I agree that a manual (or three) is a good thing, but I use the Hodgdon data quite a bit, and especially for newer cartridges.
Doug
http://data.hodgdon.com/main_menu.asp
I agree that a manual (or three) is a good thing, but I use the Hodgdon data quite a bit, and especially for newer cartridges.
Doug
hey guys thanks for all your info..... do you think this Hodgons manual is anygood.... looks like I can pick it up locally for around $7...located on the bottom of the following website
http://www.hodgdon.com/new_prod.html
http://www.hodgdon.com/new_prod.html
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"...Hodgons manual is any good..." It will be for the powders Hodgdon sells. IMR, Winchester and their own brand. For $7 you can't lose. What edition?The latest manual from Hodgdon runs $10.95US. It'll have a how-to chapter in it too.
When you get that far, look into an RCBS Beginner's Kit. Gives you everything you need less dies and shell holder. Runs about $500. (Comes with a Speer manual, but buy a Lyman book when you can. Not that the Speer book is bad. It'll have loads for Speer bullets only. Just like the Hodgdon book will have loads for their powders only. The Lyman book(not $7 though) is far more versatile. It has more loads using more powders and bullets than any bullet or powder maker's book.) Plus you get RCBS' legendary customer service. Have any problems and they'll fix it, usually free, with a phone call. Even if you buy used or you caused the problem.
When you get that far, look into an RCBS Beginner's Kit. Gives you everything you need less dies and shell holder. Runs about $500. (Comes with a Speer manual, but buy a Lyman book when you can. Not that the Speer book is bad. It'll have loads for Speer bullets only. Just like the Hodgdon book will have loads for their powders only. The Lyman book(not $7 though) is far more versatile. It has more loads using more powders and bullets than any bullet or powder maker's book.) Plus you get RCBS' legendary customer service. Have any problems and they'll fix it, usually free, with a phone call. Even if you buy used or you caused the problem.
Every new guy asks which ONE book is best.
The problem with that is that bullet makers (Nosler, for example) only list their own bullets, not the competitions ones. So if they dont make a .416 or .458 bullet, there will not be any info on those calibres.
And the power companies do the same, so if you buy a Hodgdson book, you will not get any info on Winchester or Vihtavouri powders.
Get several books, AND READ THE FIRST CHAPTER!
The problem with that is that bullet makers (Nosler, for example) only list their own bullets, not the competitions ones. So if they dont make a .416 or .458 bullet, there will not be any info on those calibres.
And the power companies do the same, so if you buy a Hodgdson book, you will not get any info on Winchester or Vihtavouri powders.
Get several books, AND READ THE FIRST CHAPTER!
The best part of the loading manuals is the preamble on bullets, powder, velocity, pressure ballistics, etc. This is why owning two or three is a good idea. Judging by some questions here, loaders are reading the loading data, but not all the fine print.
Quote: "..........what questions on this thread make you think that people are not "reading the fine print?" I see no evidence of stupid replies here........"
By "here" I was refering to this forum, not this thread. An example that comes to mind is a recent posting about powder charges in a military 7.62x51 case. I am pretty sure that all the loading manuals explain that these cases are heavier and require power charges to be reduced.
A lot of effort and knowledge goes into the preamble to a loading manual. I am of the opinion that reloaders would enjoy their hobby more if they read two or three manuals, early on.
By "here" I was refering to this forum, not this thread. An example that comes to mind is a recent posting about powder charges in a military 7.62x51 case. I am pretty sure that all the loading manuals explain that these cases are heavier and require power charges to be reduced.
A lot of effort and knowledge goes into the preamble to a loading manual. I am of the opinion that reloaders would enjoy their hobby more if they read two or three manuals, early on.
Edward Teach
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
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I'm not sure if it's politic to say so here, but if one were so inclined, one might even find a torrent containing pdfs of the various manufacturer's manuals. I'm sure that the various manufacturers wouldn't mind too much if you just happened to stumble upon data for loads using their powders...
The Lyman book is the one to get. It gives you lots of instructions, loads for a variety of bullets and they are one of the few who has the pills to post the pressure data. Forget the Sierra Bullets manual, its loose pages in a clunky binder and the data has been way too lawyered down.
But, like the others said, why pay when you can get tons of data for free from various manufacturer's websites.
But, like the others said, why pay when you can get tons of data for free from various manufacturer's websites.
back to GANDERITE...........
Now I understand, thanks. And yes I agree. There is a lot of information on the Internet, and not all of it is good nor valid.............but the information in any reloading manual I have ever read is good stuff.
Doug
Now I understand, thanks. And yes I agree. There is a lot of information on the Internet, and not all of it is good nor valid.............but the information in any reloading manual I have ever read is good stuff.
Doug
actually, the lyman book is probably one of the best simply b/c they DON'T make components and therefore have no vested intrest in "selling" anything- simple straight forward facts- and they used to use "pressure guns" ( i don't know whether they still do) and give figures- afaik, everyone else is a member of a "group" that somewhere down the line is looking to sell you components
as far as the internet goes, the best way is to collect your data from a number of different sources and compare - ie print the load sheet and look for variances- there are lots of calibers that aren't in the manuals for various reasons- obsolete, or hadn't been invented when the book was published- like the 40s&w in my speer 11- or the 357 sig-or they don't make components for it- 7.62x25 for instance- however it IS available from other people
as far as the internet goes, the best way is to collect your data from a number of different sources and compare - ie print the load sheet and look for variances- there are lots of calibers that aren't in the manuals for various reasons- obsolete, or hadn't been invented when the book was published- like the 40s&w in my speer 11- or the 357 sig-or they don't make components for it- 7.62x25 for instance- however it IS available from other people
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