Springfield M1A Standard trigger

zenmagic

zenmagic

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South Western Ontario
Ok, I just bought one of these and I can't believe how heavy the trigger pull is.
Is there sticky on how to break in a M1a trigger?
Will it hurt it to dry fire it a million times?
Would it be better to dry fire it with snapcaps in it?
Help?
 
Cost me $75 at Ellwood Epps to have it done professionally on my M305. I read an article in Caliber magazine (link here) that suggested applying valve grinding compound to the hooks and sear an such and working the trigger group over and over, but I elected to take mine to a gunsmith. Lastly for what it's worth I only dry fire my M305 with snap caps, but nothing stopping you from working just the trigger group.
 
Take it out of the rifle and lubricate the trigger hooks lightly with some good grease, and while out of the rifle pull trigger and reset and pull trigger and reset. Repeat for about 1 to 2 hours, preferably while watching a hockey game or something for entertainment Voila, Barneys hockey night in Canada trigger Job...... when completed trigger pull will be much smoother, and a bit lighter..

Unless you have a lot of experience working an m14 trigger, bypass the valve grinding compound, you don't wanna make it dangerous
 
If you lube it, it won't break in - lube helps prevent wear after all. Try toothpaste or Flitz, or another mild polishing compound.
 
Lots of simple good advice here. I'm not an advocate of lightening the trigger pull simply because I'm not competent and skilled enough to do it. But what I was taught by my NRA High Power Shooting Coach was to lube it up and dry fire the trigger group (not inserted in the rifle) while watching an entire Leafs game... hey with them 5 rookies scoring (but they still lost in OT) 5 goals last night in NY Island, what's not to like?

For those of you who are new to the game, use toothpaste instead of valve grinding compound on the hammer hooks and hammer sear engagement. :cool:

At my clinics I use valve grinding compound 800 grit, and I like using plain old grease, too. Lubing up the engaging surfaces sure helps smoooooth the trigger, not lighten it.

And that's all I'm gonna say about the triggers, since that's all I know (wife says, "Not much.") :eek:

Now, do you guys wanna know how to grease your hammer hooks when your barreled receiver is glass bedded INTO your existing match stock? Hey, maybe I'll start a thread of my day off work. Been working six days a week installing fiber optic cable... :wave:

Cheers,
Barney
 
That Calibre magazine article has netted me quite a few trigger repair jobs..... not sure if I should write a thank-you note or go punch those guys in the mouth....

Under no circumstances should a "non-professional" put valve grinding compound on, or in, a trigger group. It's a really good way to completey bugger your trigger in under 3 minutes. If you don't know what you're doing, don't do it!

You want to polish the engagement surfaces, not remove material. It will make the stiffer trigger smoother but won't actually lighten the pull weight. I can usually get a nice smooth military 2-stage trigger with-in about 30 min. Smooth pull, a bit of resistance (I call it hitting the wall) then a crisp break. I use a valve lapping compound and finish with a much finer 1200gr lapping compound. The valve grinding compound is only used to remove the park, lapping compound for the finish.

Again, I can't stress this enough! Don't start unless you're capable or prepared to buy new trigger parts!

John
 
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