SR-22 barrel support block removal... have you?

[G37]

New to the SR-22... I noticed that the barrel support block applies an unreasonable amount of force upwards on the barrel; so much so that it splits the handguard from the receiver cover.

I removed the barrel support block and noticed instantly that the firearm now looks correct/straight.

I decided to pick up a Dlask Adjustable V-Block to make up for any support the support block was actually supposed to provide.

Anyway... anyone else remove it?

Reports? I haven't actually shot mine yet.

G37

I'm waiting for more accessories, but I'll post a new thread with pics when she's all done~

 

[matty86suk]

I was wondering the same thing, i did some searching and the people who have removed their support block have reported no negitive feedback, try it and see if POI changes any...

 

[jt_trouble]

New to the SR-22... I noticed that the barrel support block applies an unreasonable amount of force upwards on the barrel; so much so that it splits the handguard from the receiver cover.

That doesn't sound right at all ...

Is the barrel nut on tight?
Is the take down screw tight?
Are you using a bull barrel(.920) with a factory support block (.750)?

 

[caramel]

Dont take nothing off just make sure you loctite everything good and buy yourself some CCI Stinger, the SR-22 shine with them, one inch or less at 100 metres, it is more expensive but it make a 100 metres rifle very accurate... JP.

 

[Tachead]

Removing the barrel support block puts undo stress on the somewhat weak stock aluminum receiver. And, can cause a bulge in the top front portion of it causing the barrel to droop that will hinder accuracy and possible function. I run an adjustable v block and the barrel support block and have no problems with accuracy. Easily sub MOA. It shouldnt be pushing it up as you say though. Did you replace the barrel to a larger diameter one like 0.920". If so, you need a Dlask 0.920" support block instead of the old one. If you didnt change the barrel something is wrong. Post a pic and I will try and help.

 

[G37]

Nope, I didn't change the barrel diameter. This was out of the box.
I also had one nagging question... "Why did NORDIC COMPONENTS make the support block from plastic, when everything else was aluminium?"

Well, after a little research I've come to the conclusion that the 'SR-22 Barrel Support' is actually of Ruger design and has been added to the kit after the fact. I don't see this block on any Nordic AR22 kits, only on the Ruger SR-22.

Interesting huh? My gut feeling is that the support block is an overkill design modification created and applied by Ruger for reasons unknown (additional strength?). I truly believe it is not as originally designed and I feel it would definitely detract from accuracy, not enhance.

I've contacted Nordic to confirm my suspicion and am awaiting a reply. I'll update once I get it.
For what it's worth, I think the adjustable V-Block is a better modification for strength concern rather than the plastic support which braces the barrel with the "free floating" forearm.

Don't worry I'll post the result regardless of what it is... maybe I'm wrong

 

[jt_trouble]

Although others will have their own opinion on the topic, the barrel support block is there for a reason ... so removing it is totally up to you .. YMMV.

But like tachead mentioned above, it is there to take away any unnecessary stress off the receiver which in it's design has weak sides and can buckle and cause a hump along the top of it. It is also made of delrin so that is does not scratch up your barrel.

 

[G37]

Well, I got an official reply:

Nordic Components called me back shortly after my previous post (above) and confirmed that the support block is indeed a Ruger SR-22 part and is NOT a part included with the Nordic AR22.

So, I asked the obvious "Why?"

I was told that Ruger did it to ensure that their barrels would be perfectly aligned/centered with the kit when completed.

I then asked if it detracted from accuracy and if I could remove it to improve accuracy. The answer I got came after a few "aaahs" and "ummmms" then, "Well, it's up to you, but it might be more accurate with the Ruger barrel and the support block installed. Our kits (AR22) are designed for aftermarket barrels which is why we don't include it."

My personal take is that Ruger perhaps was worried about people complaining that the forearm wasn't centered around the barrel, so they made this plastic piece to reduce the "Hey Ruger, my barrel isn't centered in the handguard! WTF!" calls/complaints.

Hope this finally clears up any questions with regards to the support block, I know it did for me and I am definitely running without it.

Ultimately, try it with and without then go with what is more accurate.
Note: free-float does not mean wedge the barrel to forearm tube with a chunk of plastic located near the muzzle

~Cheers

 

[jt_trouble]

Here is some info for you from the good Dr.

Yes, you will have problems.
10(SR)/22 with slip-fit barrel is meant to have a support in the front.
Free floating it only enhances the movement
between the barrel-receiver,
and putting un-necessary stress on the receiver.

The flex in the receiver (as in a factory thin top)
is NOT the only effect of the stress.
The tennon being too short for that barrel weight, there is also
a lot of stress in the aluminum sorrounding the barrel hole,
specifically in the top-rear and front-bottom portion of the hole and also
in the .920" barrel support area in the front of the receiver.
The only solution for a worry-free free-floating is threaded barrel in the receiver.

Good luck, may or may not happen to your rifle but don't say you weren't warned

 

[Tachead]

Warned twice

 

[G37]

Thanks... I guess I'll have to test both methods/modes then for accuracy gain to see if free-floating the sr-22 warrants removing the support block.
The nice thing about the SR22/AR22 ultimately though is that it is just an aluminium chassis which will accept any/all 10/22 receivers.

Dr.Lector is correct that the only worry-free solution for free-floating the 10/22 is a threaded receiver/barrel combo; luckily these are being developped (Dlask) and I'll definitely be picking one up when they are ready.

~Cheers all.

 

[Tachead]

The threaded receiver that Dlask is fabricating is the railed DAR-22 receiver which will not fit in the Nordic chassis. Just so you know, you are talking to people that have many years of experience with both the 10-22 and the SR/Nordic chassis. I myself have built more then one 10-22 and have personally seen the receiver damaged with even a stock carbine barrel which is much lighter then the 0.750" diameter SR barrel. Accuracy can be gained in other ways like with trigger and bolt upgrades and/or mods. My SR is not free floated and it will put 25 rounds through a ragged hole at 100 meters. A while back I hit a pop can at 300 meters. Thats about 380 yards. You wont get much better accuracy out of a 10-22 let alone an SR which is not even bedded. We are just trying to save you some time and money man. Trust us we have been thier and made the mistakes for you. Your choice though.

 

[Utah]

I thought about removing it a few months back, but after reading what Dr. Lector had to say on the topic at the time, decided to keep it in.
Seems counter-intuitive to remove a part of a gun installed by the manufacturer that has direct effect on the barrel

 

[Dr.Lector]

The threaded receiver that Dlask is fabricating is the railed DAR-22 receiver which will not fit in the Nordic chassis.

Dlask is offering the threaded receiver in both
the integral picatinny version AND the flat top version.

However, neither one will fit the Nordic/SR22 without very serious and
heavy modification to the stock.
The reason to that is the fact that ALL Dlask receivers,
wheather they are picatinny or flat top, slip-fit or threaded have a much thicker top (for strength/rigidity purposes) than the OEM Ruger.
AND in addition to that, the threaded receivers
have a removable 2nd hold-down at the back
AND a barrel nut at the front.


Here are some points to consider when choosing your stock for
a Dlask receiver:
1. Thicker top of the receiver (all Dlask receivers, with or without picatinny),
so it will lift (or not fit at all) the railed top of the stock (kit),

2. In case of Dlask receivers with the removable 2nd hold-down
(wheather they have threaded barrel or not),
the stock has to have enough material behind the inletting,
so a pocket can be cut to accomodate the second hold down,

3. In case of the Dlask threaded receiver, the stock has to have enough material
at the front of the receiver inletting in order to accomodate
a wider pocket for the barrel nut without compromising
the rigidity of the stock
AND enough material at the back for
the removable 2nd hold down (see point 2 above).

Clear as mud?


If it was me, and I wanted a rigid receiver (Dlask) in a tacticool shell,
I would probably look for a stock like RBP Evolution
(not to be confused with Boyd's SS Evolution),
because it seems that it may be easier to modify.

If you HAVE TO have the SR22/Nordic, Archangel, Marauder, etc., then
you don't have many options beside the OEM Ruger receiver,
unless you spend insane amounts of money on modifications of the stock.