SR-22 pains

Zen_Seeker

Zen_Seeker

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I've had an SR-22 for about a year now. It shoots well enough at 50M/100M. I bought it as my son wasn't impressed with the bolt action and wanted an auto. The first time I cleaned it I noticed the top rail that bolts to the receiver had a lose screw. Putting it back together the screw hole seems 90% stripped. Just grabs a bit and more turning makes it worse. I moved the rifle to an ATI stock for a while but neither of us liked the look of the plastic stock so i moved it back to the Nordic OME stock. My concern now is that cleaning is eventually going to strip more screws. (Torque screw driver doesn't fit in the hole, need to use allen wrenches.)

As I need to remove the aluminum housing to clean the action and chamber properly, at least every other trip, to ensure no FTF/FTE is there a better tool/way to clean this area where I can leave the Nordic chassis on? I use a boresnake and a pistol cleaning kit but getting a brush inside the chamber is a no go. (Thinking about buying a new brush and bending it so I can use through extractor port.)

I long ago did the auto bolt release, mag lever sanding so mags are held tighter, and plastic buffer pin. (All improved things nicely.) But Butler Creek 25 round mags still have FTF/FTE issues. OEM 10/22 mags work fine. BC mags jam about 2 - 3 times per 25 shots. Usually the round is jammed into the top left corner and I need to pull the bolt back to let it drop and feed another. Can't use the tie wrap solution as I have 4 OEM 10 round mags and only one BC 25 round mag.

So a better way to clean the chamber and a way to fix BC mags are where I'm at now.

TIA,
Zen
 
File the square ends of the feed lips on your BC mags. At the rear of the feed lips. You will want to angle them so it will allow the mag to auto align beautifully with the mag. Ill post a pic later to show what im poorly trying to explain. It really helped with my BC mags.

As about your cleaning issue, there is no good way about it. I like to use the lotus cleaning cables as you dont need to remove the barrel. If you are using a tacticool stock there is no way avoiding breaking it all down for cleaning. People wanted it to look cool over functional.
 
S1de8urnz said:
File the square ends of the feed lips on your BC mags. At the rear of the feed lips. You will want to angle them so it will allow the mag to auto align beautifully with the mag. Ill post a pic later to show what im poorly trying to explain. It really helped with my BC mags.

As about your cleaning issue, there is no good way about it. I like to use the lotus cleaning cables as you dont need to remove the barrel. If you are using a tacticool stock there is no way avoiding breaking it all down for cleaning. People wanted it to look cool over functional.
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Thanks, I'll be back for the pic's! It's almost always FTF with the round jammed up into the top middle or left corner. I was hoping some other SR-22 owner had been here, done that, and worked out a better solution for cleaning.

Ya, I should have stuck with the normal 10/22 stocks but he was 13 at the time and starting to show interest in something other than a computer game so I paid the price. It's well made but cleaning was NOT a consideration with this design!

I use the braided cables from my pistol cleaning kit along with a boresnake for quick or interim cleanings. I'm going to pick up another .22LR brass/copper/plastic brush and cut it down or bend it so a quick, but thorough, chamber cleaning can be done.

At least my son's getting into it more. He tried my 5.56/.223 a few months back and blew up a coconut. Loved it. Talked him into trying the .308 last week after he watched me blow up a dodgeball sized water melon. He nailed another coconut dead centre.
 
When I clean my sr-22 I never remove the four screws on the top of the receiver. I just remove the lower chassis and hand gaurd. And then can remove trigger group and bolt for cleaning barrel and action. I have heard that the original version of the sr-22 needs to have the top section or rail/chassis removes for disassembly but I can't speak to that.
 
JD22-250 said:
When I clean my sr-22 I never remove the four screws on the top of the receiver. I just remove the lower chassis and hand gaurd. And then can remove trigger group and bolt for cleaning barrel and action. I have heard that the original version of the sr-22 needs to have the top section or rail/chassis removes for disassembly but I can't speak to that.
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I've tried leaving just the top on but I can't separate the upper and lower that way. Not enough play to get them separated. Also have to remove the scope all the time and zero changes, slightly. (Hard to tell with a 22LR ammo bulk pack.) As it's only 12 to 18 months old I'll look it over again when I need to break it down to clean and see if I missed something but I recall the back end not wanting to budge until the top is off.
 
Ya try it again. Not sure if anyone else is having that issue but mine comes right apart with the top section left on. I can see how that would be a major pain for you
 
S1de8urnz said:
File the square ends of the feed lips on your BC mags. At the rear of the feed lips. You will want to angle them so it will allow the mag to auto align beautifully with the mag. Ill post a pic later to show what im poorly trying to explain. It really helped with my BC mags.
Click to expand...

I examined the 10/22 OEM mags and noticed the front and back of the "steel lips" are rounded while the BC 25/22 are square. I filed down the front and back to match the OEM mags so we'll see how that goes. I'm hoping the slightly higher and squared BC steel lips are raising the bolt and causing the issue. Regardless I can't see it doing any harm.
 
For cleaning, I would go over board. I just clean the chamber and bolt area the best I can using brushes and Remington action cleaner. Then I re lube. It's enough to keep her running without worrying about stripping the chassis. As for the butler creek, mine also sucked and they still do. I spent some time loading and unloading mags over and over and it helped a little but they stil jammed more than I wanted. So now all I run is factory 10 rounders
 
I've never taken the top screws off to take it apart. You are putting the safety in the 'middle' between on and off, right? I'm not sure what problem you are having.

For the mags, if you have the steel lips ones, what I found was that the first 8 or 10 uses of each magazine I got a lot of FTEs but then they settled down. I always store them full and use them about once a week, about 2 loads through each. So after a month or so of that, I stopped getting FTEs with them. I never cleaned the magazines, dunno if that helped or made it take longer to break in.

I also put a fancy extractor kit on, and that helped a lot with FTEs with my 110 rd drums.
 
Same here in the never removing top screws. Just two on front then handguard then take down and that's it. I've seen a tear down on YouTube removing top but I could never figure why. Have a look at a newer bc mag if you have one or compare to a factory Ruger. I have 4 old ones that had some lip filing and I just bought 3 more last week and zero issue on any of them with about 150 or so rounds each with no filing at all
 
Cut a brush down and use a rubber coated cable with a handle. Insert in breech end with bolt held open. Turn gun with extraction port down and the threaded end of the cable will poke out. Pull it out and screw on shortened brush. Pull thru remove brush and repeat. Don't take the top rail off
 
The video shows pretty much the same thing I do but when I try to remove the lower from the upper the back end won't move until I remove the top rail. I'll try again the next time it needs to be cleaned. Maybe a corner needs to be lightly filed.

I remembered my GSG 22LR came with a bent brush and that's helped a lot. As long as it works until I need to do a full/heavy cleaning I'll stick with it and the boresnake. I'll still pick up a new brush to cut down if needed.

I also noted that the barrel screw/bolt in the video is slotted while mine uses a hex head. I also notice, every time I do a full cleaning, that the top rail has play in it until tightened. The gaps between the upper and lower at the sides can change. So maybe I need to move it forward so the back end can swing out more with out rubbing.

With the replies I got I have a few things I can still try as well as the improvements I've already made. Thanks to all, I'm looking forward to a better experience next time out and when it comes to cleaning.

Zen
 
Looks like I was to gental with it. Using a flat head screwdriver I am able to leave the top rail on. Looks like paint and one corner are tight and need to wear down before it comes off without a fight. I can live with that. ;)

So that just leaves tweaking the BC mags. OME 10/22 are flawless, most times, but the BC 25/22 can jam every 7 rounds and next day, with same ammo, be fine for all 25 rounds. Filing the feed lips so the front and back edges are rounded rather than square seems to help with manually working the action but I won't be able to test until I get up north again.

Thanks again for the feedback. I know rifles are tools but I never feel comfortable hitting one with a hammer, so to speak, unless it's a Norinco. (Thanks TT.)
 
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