Starting powder measurement for accuracy (general)

[MOntario]

Hello,

I have already bought all my components for starting to reload rifle for accuracy. Besides reading the minimum and maximum powder amount from a load data book, where should I start to develop this new load. Should I start at the low, middle, 75%, high end?

I'm not looking for a specific recipe rather I would like to try to develop my own. I intended on loading up a few different recipes to try at the range soon but I don't want to start with so many different combinations that I use all my powder up before I even find the sweet spot.

Also if anyone had any suggestions on the progression I should take to find the best combination that would be much appreciated.

Thanks,
Mike

 

[cet]

Mike,
Not much information to go on.
I reload for a 308/243/303 and I can tell you from my own experiance, my precision loads are not the hottest or the slowest.
Somewhere at the midpoint I guess. Keep in mind that every rifle is going to want it's own recepie.
If you need more help, I'm in the Ottawa area as well.
Cheers

 

[ron hilchey]

In my experience, many factory guns have shot most accurately at about 10% less the max load. This is not a rule, just an observation.
Different bullets are generally designed to shoot best at certain velocities. For this reason a chronograph can be a useful tool.
Ladder tests (there are lots of examples on this form) will certainly help you get in the "ball park" with a minimum amount of ammo.
I have never saved money loading, only got to shoot more for the same amount.
Hope this helps.

 

[silverfoxdj]

I'd start with the minimum (starter) load published and work up just to be safe.. you don't need to load a ton to find out what works well..

 

[TargetAcquired]

Depends on what you're looking to do with the load. Hunting? Plinking? Target?

For 30-30 alone I have 3 loads that I brew up depending on what I'm doing - the most popular of which is a very economical 'plinking' load with 150gn cast projectiles and 8 grains of Unique, which is much more fun and accurate than it might sound. With 7000 grains in a can of Unique, it helps the most contentious of required components go a looooong way while still giving you the opportunity to shoot regularly.

 

[samsplacci71]

I reload for various calibers. Many of them milsurp. I do load for precision for my K31 and my Remington 700 .308 (both using Hornady Match 168gr HPBT projectiles). If you have a modern rifle then your rifle can handle max load unless it has been abused. Having said that, you need to consider what you are loading as far as projectile, IE hunting or target.

In my opinion, as one of the others has mentioned, if you are getting into loading for precision, a chronograph is pretty critical--> my friend loads his Remington 700 in .308 and K31 using H4831sc. He was getting fantastic results at 200 yrds and then his groups were opening up beyond that. He didn't have a chronograph, so once he did, he checked is precision load and discovered he was leaving the muzzle only at 2200 fps....if you want the groups to stay tight at distance, you have to ensure you achieve proper velocity leaving the muzzle.

You can also get technical about the twist rate of your barrel, length of your projectile, specific ballistic coefficient ie a regular HPBT or a Berger VLD bullet, case prep consistency, quality of the brass and case overall length are also factors to consider in precision shooting if you are going to take it to the next level. IE, for case overall length (COAL), some shooters find their rifles shoot better with the bullet they load is actually just touching the lands of the barrel, while others load their COAL just off the lands with a short "jump". Each bulllet ogive is different, so make sure you make a dummy round and load it longer than the manual says, then try it in your chamber with bolt closed, this way you get a nice tight fit. I recommend not loading to the lands, just a touch off. I have had good results with this technique.

I recommend picking a starting point and maybe loading in small increments, IE .2 or .3 grains. Write on the side of the cartridge with a "sharpie" marker the exact weight of the charge.

Once you get close to max, then start looking for signs of overpressure on the spent case, especially at the base and the primer.

Hope this helps, good luck.

 

[MOntario]

Ladder tests (there are lots of examples on this form) will certainly help you get in the "ball park" with a minimum amount of ammo.

I had never heard of the ladder test until now.

I have never saved money loading, only got to shoot more for the same amount.

That's all I wanted, its my wife's rifle and she always felt guilty for wanting to shoot it because of the cost per round.

Depends on what you're looking to do with the load. Hunting? Plinking? Target?

Target/Plinking

Thanks for everyones help so far, I will make some loads for a ladder test and go from there.

 

[superted]

As previously posted - every rifle has a "favorite load" - as the okd saying goes " only one way to know how far a frog will jump is ... make him jump and measure it" I've used the Speer losding book since ??? Gone from min to max recommended - loading 5 rounds at each 1gr grain increments - then off a good rest - at 25yds (to minimize any wind effect) - shot the 5 round groups and the most accurate loading - FOR THAT SPECIFIC RIFLE - has always made itself VERY evident by the tightest group - in THAT rifle and with a specific bullet/powder combination. It works!