Starting to reload

[BBB]

Hi everybody.

My one and only hunting rifle is a savage 11 in .270 Wsm, and while I love the gun and it shoots sub moa in the factory ammo it likes, it's just too pricey to shoot nearly as much as I'd like. I was going to buy a Stevens 200 in .223, but then I thought that I'd just take that money and put it towards reloading gear.

I figure the cash savings, considering that federal tsx cartridges go for + $50 a box, will be considerable.
Also, I'm not getting the most out of the .270 wsm with factory loads, because there are a bunch of good .277 cal. bullets that they don't load in WSM.

So I've been through the old threads on this forum, and I think I'm going to start out with the Lee anniverssary kit, and I'll possibly upgrade to an electric scale from e-bay. But I've got a couple of questions.

While a lot of people seem to be down on the cheaper Lee kits, it seems that this is largely because they're fiddly and kind of slow, not so much because they turn out poorer quality ammo. Is that basically on? I'm not going to be reloading huge amounts, so I think I can deal with fiddly.

Secondly, does anybody else reload for the .270 WSM, and, if so, how tricky is it to work up an accurate load? My Savage is a pretty good shooter - the worst groups it gets with factory stuff are around 1.5"

And finally, I noticed a thread where it was suggested that nickle plated brass was inferior for reloading. I've got around 140 once-fired nickle brass, and around 60 regular. Should I buy new brass to start, or will the nickle work.

Thanks guys, it looks like this forum will help a lot.

 

[Demonical]

Your choice of reloading equipment will not determine your success, attention to detail, manuals, Chrony results will.

Get several of the new manuals from Nosler, Speer, Hornady, Hodgdons etc...
Multiple reference sources is always good.

Do not think that loads posted on the internet are safe!!

Start at lower loads and work up.

The Chronograph is truth!!

 

[BBB]

Yeah, I was looking at some manuals today at P&D and the Speer didn't have WSM load data. Maybe it was an old one, I don't know. I saw someone recomend The ABCs of reloading as a good source to start with, but P&D didn't have it, and I forgot to look for manuals at Wholesale. I'm going to go back next week and get a manual before I buy a kit.

 

[Icon]

And finally, I noticed a thread where it was suggested that nickle plated brass was inferior for reloading. I've got around 140 once-fired nickle brass, and around 60 regular. Should I buy new brass to start, or will the nickle work.

The biggest problem that I have heard with Nickle casings is that they are stronger than the Brass. Why is that bad? If you are going to full length size them, it will be tougher to do than with the Brass. Does not mean that you can't do it!

Once fired shells are just perfect! After a couple of firings, you will probably have to trim them. Some guys will trim after each firing, doesn't really matter as long as the shell is within specs.

If I was trying to choose between the two and I had as many Nickle as you, I would go with the Nickle. And considering that the Nickle is a bit tougher, I would seriously consider NOT getting the cheapest press you can. Get something that will stand up to tough rifle cartridges.

Also, some reloading kits will come with manuals.

Good luck!

 

[chappy]

you have to be careful with nickle brass as it can be hard on the dies. brass is soft but a burr on a nickle case can scrach. when i have tried it i make sure the to chamfer the neck, make sure there is no rough edges and wipe the case prior to sizing. i found the once fired nickle brass to be better than the bulk. a bud of mine chewed up an 06 sizer die with bulk remington nickle brass, a good lesson for me cause i saw him do it. i check them well before sizing.

 

[Demonical]

BBB, also I meant to say that you would be better off buying a Chrony then an electronic scale.

A simple mid-level Chrony for ~$150 is perfect. No need to buy a fancier model (right away anyway).

 

[Splatter]

The Lee anniversary kit is an excellent place to start.

Will your rifle easily rechamber the fired cases? If so, you may want to use the Lee Collet dies, for neck sizing only. If you decide to go with full length resizing, I'd pop for the Lee Classic Cast press (the single station, not the turret). That way at some future time you can upgrade to the Hornady Lock-N-Load system.
Forget about the eBay electronic scale, at least for now. They are no more accurate than the Lee scale, and frequently less so. They are only good if you are weighing stuff, and you won't be, right now.
What I mean is that you will be setting the scale to a pre-determined weight and trickling powder until the beam comes-up. You won't be dumping an unknown bullet into the pan and fiddling with the counterweights trying to findout if its weight.
The Lee kit also comes with the cutter and lock-stud for the case trimmer. Pickup the case length gauge and shell holder. It only takes a couple seconds per shell to check, and then you'll know for sure that none of your shells are longer than spec.

 

[BBB]

you have to be careful with nickle brass as it can be hard on the dies. brass is soft but a burr on a nickle case can scrach. when i have tried it i make sure the to chamfer the neck, make sure there is no rough edges and wipe the case prior to sizing. i found the once fired nickle brass to be better than the bulk. a bud of mine chewed up an 06 sizer die with bulk remington nickle brass, a good lesson for me cause i saw him do it. i check them well before sizing.

Yeah, I've heard that. I figure I'll get carbide dies if I'm going to be reloading the nickle brass.

 

[Fall Guy]

BBB, also I meant to say that you would be better off buying a Chrony then an electronic scale.

A simple mid-level Chrony for ~$150 is perfect. No need to buy a fancier model (right away anyway).

I'll second the Chrony.

If you even remotely think you will get serious about reloading, buy the best you can afford.

The powder manufacturers, like, IMR, Hodgdon, Alliant and Vihtavouri all have excellent reloading info availabe at their sites. Good place to start. (and its free )

Trying to source the specific bullet and powder you want may prove troublesome - plan ahead and be prepared to order and wait to get exactly what you want.

Read and read and read. And ask lots of questions. So far, so good.

 

[Splatter]

I figure I'll get carbide dies if I'm going to be reloading the nickle brass.

No, I don't think you will.

I've heard of carbide rifle dies in .308 and .223 (tho' I've never actually seen a set). I understand they are several hundred US$/set.
And I suppose it's possible that the factory might use carbide forming dies to make the cases; but I expect you could buy a couple pretty nice rifles for what a set of carbide dies for .270 WSM would run you.

Don't fear the nickel, brother. When you are lubing the cases, do it by hand (which is why I like the Imperial Sizing Wax), rub your greasy fingers all over the case, getting a very thin layer of lube everywhere. * If * you feel a burr on the body (rim doesn't matter), set the case aside for a better look later.

 

[todbartell]

another vote for a chrony, some models are under $100

I like RCBS stuff personally, its all I use. the 750 electronic scale is better than a 5-0-5 beam scale too.....
​

 

[BBB]

No, I don't think you will.

Right, no wonder I didn't see carbide dies at wholesale.
I'm going to leave off the noobie questions till I get a book or two read.

Then I'll probably flood the board.
Thanks guys.

 

[Scott_N]

Secondly, does anybody else reload for the .270 WSM, and, if so, how tricky is it to work up an accurate load? My Savage is a pretty good shooter - the worst groups it gets with factory stuff are around 1.5"

I reload for my .270 WSM Tikka T-3 and I haven't encountered any problems finding loads that shoot good. Like you mentioned, the published data available for the .270 WSM isn't exactly overwelming. Try the Shortmags.org sight for some good information, including links to the powder manuafacturers that have data for .270 WSM.

You might find that you don't save a whole lot of money by reloading, but it certainly gives you a lot more options. Plus you get a kind of self satisfaction by reloading your own ammo. It will also give you an excuse to get that .223 later, after all, ammo will be cheap for you!