Steam cleaning after corrosive ammo

The corrosive salt you are removing is KCL. It has about the same solubility (35g/100ml) as table salt (NaCl). The actual quantity of KCl from the primers is <<1 g so only a very small amount of water is required to fully dissolve the salt. Hot water is better since the solubility of salts increase with increasing temperature and the hot water evaporates quickly. Boiling water isn't necessary; hot water from the tap is sufficient. I use 500 ml with a few brush strokes after I have added about half the water.
A little plywood and you can make a rack to hold the rifle muzzle down. I soldered a cut off case to a piece of copper tube and added a funnel. The whole wash process takes just a couple of minutes with the water collected in a plastic coffee container. People do as they wish but there is no reason to use boiling water or very large quantities of water. Steam will work but you need the steam to condense and run as a liquid from the barrel otherwise you can't be sure that the salt is actually removed.
Once the KCl is removed, you can clean your rifle with whatever you choose - it is no longer "corrosive".

A caution..
Hoppes #9 contains ethanol. KCl is slightly soluble in ethanol so Hoppes will remove the corrosive salt provided you use enough patches and the Hoppes is new or stored carefully. Ethanol will evaporate from open or poorly sealed containers of #9. Aged #9 will consist mostly of kerosene; the ammonia and ethanol will have evaporated. Aged #9 will not remove corrosive salts and it won't remove copper either. Despite what people may say, you should not rely on Hoppes for cleaning corrosive fouling because it isn't possible to know the solubility of KCl in a liquid of unknown composition. Buy small bottles of Hoppes; keep them tightly capped; or buy the large bottles and decant into a smaller container.
 
ridenrain said:
Boiling water also heats up the parts so the water evaporates so there is no chance of rust.
With localized steam, if the parts don't heat up, you could have residual moisture and that has to be wiped away or it will start rusting.
Click to expand...

Believe me there is no residual moisture, all the metal is the same temp as the steam 100 degrees celsius and drys almost immediately but there is considerable moisture/condensed steam to wash away corrosive salts as well before that dries too. This is the first step then comes CLP and swabs until shiny etc and then oil. I have the Shark steam system that I also use to clean my hardwood floors but breaks down to just the steam wand as well. This is very hot I wear leather gloves inside some heavy duty rubber gloves to be able to handle the metal during cleaning. Please remember cosmo and your sink drains do not go well together, do not pour down your drains. This steamer worked wonders cleaning my SKS's and the stocks looked a million times better following with no fit issues due to the wood swelling however I would not subject the wood to water or humidity for too long as it likely would start to expand. A large rectangular tub is a good addition to the steam cleaning partnership. Corrosive ammo may not be your best option but for the price this kind of steaming system and very little time goes a long way to saving your pocket book while still having some fun!
 
I was at Silverdale yesterday, my 2nd time going and i brought along my SKS and Mosin. Brother in law's first time out with a gun and he turns 18 on Sunday. I wish i had a range trip birthday present for my 18th but anyway......Since cleaning my rifles of cosmo/ boiling water / soap......After shooting yesterday like 100 rounds out of the SKS and 40 rounds out of the Mosin. I just used boiling water over one of those supermarket alum. turkey pans, dump all the parts in and hit the barrel with boiling water, like 2 kettles full...both guns in two pans, then some hoppes #9 solvent and patches then clean patches then dry and oiled patches, dry off and i acutally use q- tips to get the crevices clean, oiled everything, good to go
 
SilverBaller said:
I just use the ammonia in Windex. No boiling water baths, no special oils or fancy brushes.

I spray it in the action and barrel and let it sit for 5 - 10 minutes before running a brush and a few patches through. Wipe down the moving bits then I oil and run a few more patches until the grey dust stops showing up on the patch.

Works for me just fine.
Click to expand...

Windex works because of the water content. has nothing to do with the ammonia in it. I always see people posting that they use windex. save your money and use boiling water. parts dry instantly. As soon as they cool use a light coating of gun oil.
 
Steam cleaning it is over-thinking. Why make it so much more complicated than what it is. Conscript soldiers who couldn't read or write managed to clean them with a few drops of solvent and oil. We still have these rifles 75 years later, why is it a problem now? Are we dumber in this century?
 
welder01 said:
Windex works because of the water content. has nothing to do with the ammonia in it. I always see people posting that they use windex. save your money and use boiling water. parts dry instantly. As soon as they cool use a light coating of gun oil.
Click to expand...
The ammonia is a light degreaser, and also helps speed up the drying of the water. Which are both the reasons why its in glass cleaner.
I continually see initial powder residue and fouling wash away with a quick spray of glass cleaner at the range. Its a simple preemptive cleaning measure.
My rifles look new, using glass cleaner at the range, and no water ever used at home when they are fully stripped and cleaned. Just solvent and oil at home. Takes 15 minutes a rifle.
It's common for people to assume its used for salts only though, but its the water that flushes the salts out.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom