Steel targets

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squirrelshooter

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I was reading on another site about the dangers of shooting at steel targets, anyone had any issues? I normally shoot from my deck about 35-40 yards to a couple of steel targets (about 12' drop to targets) One target is a Champion diamond, spring loaded, mounted on a 2x6 and the other is home made, a 4" square plate welded to a 2' long 2" diameter coil spring on a weighted base. I regularly repair and flatten out the plates, I've welded the targets a couple of times, and repainted lots but they are about the best reactive targets I've used. The one on the spring is a riot to shoot with the semi while it's still moving. Most of the lead seems to go down into the ground in front of the target, my 2x6 gets chewed up pretty good. I've never had anything fly back at me, but I shoot with my kids alot and I'm a little concerned after reading the thread on the other forum. My girlfriends 15 year old son actually built the long spring target in his shop class, the spring was from one of the old tables in the high school cafe. I didn't think too many teachers would be into that, but I guess the shop teachers are still as easy going as they were when I was in school.
 
I think your fine, we have shot my hanging steel targets at 25 yards before, never had any issues. I even have a 1/2 inch thick plate as one of my swingers and it barely seems to move when shot but still the ground under it gets chewed up, never had anything come back at us before.
 
I shoot steel targets weekly @ 7 yards no problem. as long as there isnt stuff stick out infront on the plate you are fine even for close range.
 
squirrelshooter said:
Most of the lead seems to go down into the ground in front of the target, my 2x6 gets chewed up pretty good.
Click to expand...

It doesn't, it's just that's the only area you see impacted because of the concentration due to being that close to the target. Look up pictures of "bullet splash" (I think that's what it's called). Fragments actually disperse in a surprisingly even 360 degree pattern around the point of impact, roughly parallel to the surface being hit.

7 yds is the minimum safety standard. Until very recently, it was 10. For steel targets in good condition, so it's good to hear you are maintaining yours. However, randomness still happens, and very occasionally you will apparently get splatter that comes straight back from the target. Proper eye protection is no joke. Most serious issues with dangerous ricochets probably happen from using damaged / pock marked steel.
 
The biggest thing is to make sure your target is able to swing or move in some way. It will absorb a lot more of the energy and change the bullets direction. A stationary plate greatly increases the chances of a ricochet.
 
I got hit twice at the Hanna range. The targets were 25 yds, stationary, & pot marked very heavy. Use a movable target (swing or roll) & keep them in good condition. P.S. I was not shooter at the time, moved to second room & got hit second time. It was time to stop shooting at the close steel.
 
Steel can definitely ricochet you! I've been hit more times then I can remember with my 9mm. .22's rarely return much at you.The most important thing to remember is to ALWAYS wear good safety glasses!!!! If the steel is not marked up it's less likely to ricochet you.
 
.22 Rimfire silhouette is shot at 40, 60, 77 and 100 metres.
Even at 40 m., the trajectory is slightly downward at impact.
About all that is left of the bullets hitting the chicken is a small disk of lead maybe 1/16 inch thick.
While doing some tests to show the safety of the sport, a cage was build and brown craft paper was used to surround it.
Not one part of the bullets pierced the paper when shot at the chickens.
As a measure of safety while shooting at steel keep your targets at least 25 yards from the firing point should offer sufficient safety.
 
I made this at work and shoot at it anywhere from 50-125 yrds, just make sure your kids wear eye protection, good habit to teach them. And don't use a fixed target, i.e. make sure it can swing to absorb some of the impact.:cool:

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What kind of steel would be best for shooting .223 up to say 308 at 100yds min distance.?



Ar500 steel ..biggest gong is 12in diam
I used cement and wood to make a form in the ammo can to accept a removeable 2x4 for the supports.
 
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my 308 will beat the crap out of regular mild 1/2 steel at 100 yards! definitely get some ar500 as to stop the steel deflecting!!
 
Ive made several steel targets.Dueling trees ,poppers and swingers.I always angle plates 20 degrees towards the ground.Pocked steel is the wrost thing to shoot at.You can get away with 3/8 or 1/2 mild steel for light load pistol caliber rounds but for .223 and larger Ar 500 is the way to go but its not cheap stuff
 
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