Stevens Bicycle Rifle

mooncoon

CGN Ultra frequent flyer
Rating - 100%
22   0   0
Location
Vancouver Island
Some photos of my most recent toy; a Stevens tip up bicycle rifle in 32 rimfire. 18" barrel on it. I am hoping it will shoot reasonably accurately but the bore is far from pristine. I made the wire stock, copying an original that a friend lent me. It is remarkable how time consuming such a simple looking stock is. The top and bottom rods are not round but oval and I made them from 5/16" drill rod and welded the pieces on, that dovetail and screw into the back strap of the receiver as well as the butt plate. I intend to have the stock and receiver renickled sometime soon but want to try the gun out first with round ball and with slugs.
For those who have not seen the model up close, the gun locks closed with a shallow dog or lug that goes into a matching slot in the barrel. The brass button on the left side view pushes the latch open and the oblong piece on the right side is the piece which engages the slot in the barrel

cheers mooncoon





 
You did a good job on the stock i wouldn't have know it was homemade

Up close you would notice the difference; there are 2 or 3 pits in the welding and I think I will fill them with the high temperature silver solder before having the stock plated. Between my limited welding skills and the small size of the joint, trying to fill the pits with weld, to some extents just causes small pits elsewhere. The original stock to copy was invaluable in being able to compare angles and small details. The screw is kept captive because the portion that goes through the stock is turned to the root diameter of the thread and the stock is threaded. That means that you have to screw the screw through the end of the stock but once all the way through, it turns freely because there are no threads on the shank in that location

cheers mooncoon
 
Last edited:
Beautiful gun you have there and definitely nice work on the stock. I wouldn't re nickel it. My friend recently aquired this pocket rifle. I fixed it but still needs the trigger screw. The stock is only a few numbers off match. Once I get that cm screw we will shoot it.

 
Beautiful gun you have there and definitely nice work on the stock. I wouldn't re nickel it. My friend recently aquired this pocket rifle. I fixed it but still needs the trigger screw. The stock is only a few numbers off match. Once I get that cm screw we will shoot it.

My gun originally had a nickeled receiver and the stock that I copied was nickeled as well. Right now I am trying to make up some ammunition to shoot in it. It appears to have been made in 32 short rimfire and initially I intended to shoot an elongated heeled bullet in it. That is beginning to look impractical and I am now playing with making OO buckshot into a heeled ball. I originally thought that I would have to sleeve the barrel but after cleaning the bore and a few trial shots, I think I might be able to shoot the gun without sleeving (and still hit the target)

cheers mooncoon
 
Nice job Moon. They are a detailed stock, above my skill level by a lot. The stocked ones I have found are matching #s, but all .22 cal. A .32 would be nice. The things seem to shoot well with the stock. (10, 12, and 18 inch barrels)
I have some .410 guns, I may have to try a barrel swap to a stocked frame. That sounds like a fun thing. Keep us in the loop when you get the ammo perfected.
 
Time for an update on the bicycle rifle. Over the last few days I have been playing around at loading and shooting 32 rimfire shells. Initial step was turning some 32 long shells out of solid brass. I drilled the base to accept 22 rimfire shells which allows me to use either ordinary 22 shells with the bullet pulled or 22 blank shells for primers. I did have to cut a shallow notch in the 32 rim so that the blade of the firing pin would strike the 22 shell. I think I have already mentioned that I had to modify the gun to accept a oval or blade shaped firing pin which would reach the 22 shell.

Because the 32 rimfire shell uses a healed bullet, the easiest way for me to make them was to make a swage and stamp the heel into a conventional cast 32 slug. After a impractical start, I ended up making a 3 piece swage which is in one of the photos below. The body is essentially a tube which accepts the slug and with a groove diameter section in the middle. It serves to guide the bottom heel swage onto the base of the slug and to guide the nose swage on from the top. One aspect of commercially made 32 shells is that the nose of the slug is under bore diameter and there is a relatively short driving band between the nose and the heel. The purpose of the nose swage was to create that shape. I also found that by silver soldering arms onto the components, I could twist the components back and forth after swaging and the swaged slug came free of the top and bottom portions. Prior to that method, I had to punch the slug from the base and from the nose portion. I also found that swaging left a small fin of metal on both ends of the slug and by running the slug through the die twice, these fins of metal were removed.

In loading the shells I used 22 acorn blanks as primers and put a drop of airplane glue on the blank so that it did not fall out from the shell. I filled the shell with Pyrodex to approximately level with the base of the slug and then pressed the slug into the shell. That final portion involved putting the primed shell and powder into a short piece of round stock with a shell diameter hole in it and sitting it on top of the ram in my loading press and dropping a slug down from on top (the nose sticks out) and with a bolt in the top of the press, pressing the two portions together. I do not use a lot of force with this step.

I shot the gun at 12 yards roughly because I wanted to be sure the bullets all struck the paper. As you can see, the gun seems to be quite accurate side to side and I think that the vertical dispersion must be from variable velocity and I am going to have to experiment a bit to solve that problem. In the photos and so far to date I have used acorn blank shells as primers but I intend to switch to 22 LR shells with the slug pulled and powder poured out. Reason is that I went to buy some 22 blank shells today and they were $20 for a box of 50 or about 40 cents each. Long rifle shells are about 8 cents apiece. I will also try to find some 22 cal Hilti shells and use them without additional powder

I use a 6 O'clock hold on the bullseye to get a consistant aiming point

cheers mooncoon





 
Great work and thanks for the tips on the .32 RF. Ingenious work on your bullets. Beautiful work on the bicycle rifle.

I have often also thought of turning my own, although I have plenty of SC brass so no real point. I also couldn't get the stock firing pins in either of mine to hit the .22 blank. .27 cals work great but don't leave any meat left in the shell.

If you are keen there is a VERY detailed thread on castboolits (not plugging another forum only this gentleman's thread) regarding his extensive trials and tribulations with numerous methods of forming and loading the .32RF. He also prefers .22 blanks or ramsets for primers; offers many loading tips and some info on ballistics with the various PTLs (no surprise that anything above green is too hot for anything; green is hotter than I trust in my revolver. I usually dump that powder and use it as a primer).
 
Last edited:
Back
Top Bottom