The bolt on my K98 can sometimes be a real PITA to open after firing a round. For the most part it feels rather stiff, or it takes a good smack to crack it open, almost like the bolt lock is in place even though its not. Rifle is kept clean and well oiled, my first step is to tear the bolt down and give it a good clean. Is this a common issue for old RC mausers?
Sticky K98 bolt
- Thread starter metalslug
- Start date
Parts were generally swapped on those rifles when they were rebuilt so you never know what you have until you take it apart or fire it. My suggestion would be to get a bore brush and lightly polish out the chamber as the spent cases may be getting stuck when you go to open the bolt.
If that isn't the problem, my other suggestion would be to swap a part at a time on the bolt and see if that solves the issue.
If that isn't the problem, my other suggestion would be to swap a part at a time on the bolt and see if that solves the issue.
My first question would be what ammo are you using?
My 98k's feed and run just fine with most stuff, S&B, Prvi, etc. Soon as any of them even look at that 1950's Yugo crap the bolts lock up tighter than.... You can insert your own analogy there.
Could be any number of things, could be the bolt parts/assembly, could be headspacing, could ammo, could be many things.
My 98k's feed and run just fine with most stuff, S&B, Prvi, etc. Soon as any of them even look at that 1950's Yugo crap the bolts lock up tighter than.... You can insert your own analogy there.
Could be any number of things, could be the bolt parts/assembly, could be headspacing, could ammo, could be many things.
K98ks had exceptional manufacturing tolerances, and I can't get any of mine out of spec with any of the bolts I own, but I would check headspace, make sure there's no crude in the chamber as suggested.
And what ammo is a good question.
And what ammo is a good question.
Assuming the chamber is clean and free of pitting, I would suspect a poor fit where the nose of the cocking piece cams against the helical mill cut at the back of the bolt body.
Some rc bolts were sandblasted and this surface may not be smooth enough or the cocking piece mose could be rough or burred
If this surface is rough, either part, it would get a small needle file and wrap it in 400 grit wet/dry paper and lightly stone this area until smooth enough to allow trouble-free operation. You are only polishing it, so go easy, don't remove much material and do not alter the curve or profile.
Some rc bolts were sandblasted and this surface may not be smooth enough or the cocking piece mose could be rough or burred
If this surface is rough, either part, it would get a small needle file and wrap it in 400 grit wet/dry paper and lightly stone this area until smooth enough to allow trouble-free operation. You are only polishing it, so go easy, don't remove much material and do not alter the curve or profile.
My first question would be what ammo are you using?
My 98k's feed and run just fine with most stuff, S&B, Prvi, etc. Soon as any of them even look at that 1950's Yugo crap the bolts lock up tighter than.... You can insert your own analogy there.
Could be any number of things, could be the bolt parts/assembly, could be headspacing, could ammo, could be many things.
AHA! THAT'S IT! Today was the first day I used 50's yugo surplus, and the problem was obvious immediately. Good thing I shot through all of it, back to buying the Prvi rounds. Thanks.
