Stock buidling/modifying

A

AlanZA

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Shawnigan Lake, BC
Hi guys,

Hoping to get a bit of advice here. I have a tikka CTR that shoots like a laser. However the shooting comfort was less than ideal as the standard stock Length of pull was insufficient, the comb was too low and palm very small for my big monkey hands. I believe that if it ain't broke, don't fix it, so although tempted by a chassis or a drop in stock, I decided to modify the standard stock. I added Length, added palm swell and added a good cheer riser. All done with jb weld and some thermoplastic. It all fits perfect and shoots better than before because I can ride the recoil much better and my shooting position is much more comfortable. The only problem is it don't look beautiful. The grey jb weld, the textured thermoplastic and the smooth glass fibre nylon plastic stock. I thought to rattle can it with truck bed coating or underbody spray, to make it all even, but I have my doubts as to how well the paint will take to the glass fibre stock as I remember struggling to get the epoxy to take and really had to mechanically fasten the work I did.

Any ideas or advice appreciated.

Even hockey tape crossed my mind, but I'll wait and see if someone has a better idea.

Thanks in advance
 
hit up a hardware store and grab some adhesion promoter spray and Krylon Camo spray paints. These work very well. I will often use simple rubbing alcohol to clean the stock thoroughly and then follow the instructions on the adhesion promoter. Also, instead of spray paint finish, I like to apply 2 thin coats of canadian tire's EZ Liner spray , from about 12 inches away and spraying straight down onto the stock. Then once that has fully cured for several days I apply matte Krylon black and a matte clear
 
before you clean it, take some 320grit sand paper and give the stock a nice even rub down. then do the clean, prime and paint. if your patching of adhesives for the mods is smooth and blends into to the stock, try some krylon and then when you are happy with the final color a couple coats of clear matte to seal it in.
 
ya sanding some plastics can help and mouse sanders are perfect as they don't leave a pattern like hand sanding or orbitals.

I have modded crap loads of plastic and glass filled nylon stocks, factory remington, tikka, ruger ect and those chinese M305 plastic stocks..... lots of those LOL
wipe em with alcohol , then sand, then alcohol again , then adhesion promoter.

For building up palm swells, forgrips and cheek weld and also for fastening adaptors for AR15/AR10 type buttstock assemblies ..... I used a 1/16" and an 1/8th" drill bit as well as a 1/8" dremel reamer bit for "toothing" the stock. Drilling patterns of holes over the area to be customized with epoxy putty , giving a multitude of locations for the putty to sink into.... bonding it for life.
Marinetex 2 part epoxy putty can be mixed and then allowed to set up to B stage and then handled somewhat like plastercine but one must work fast once B stage begins. A product i actually prefer to use but have a hard time finding these days is Goop Marine epoxy paste as it has a very predictable curing curve at room temp and can be applied right away in volume and then as it goes thru the b stage.... as soon as it's tacky but not sticky, it can be shaped with your fingers. I smear and push the first layer over the patterns of holes and then begin building up on top of that secure base layer.
When most of these vinylester and glass filled thermoplastics get molded, an agent similar to vegetable oil is used in the process and these plastic stocks actually benefit from a yearly wipe down with vegetable oil as it preserves the stocks strength and prevents it from becoming brittle. Sealing one of these stocks in a correct fashion can prevent that "drying out" of these types of thermoplastics but the oils can seep and make the paint wear off faster in some areas especially in summer months/hot climate.

Let us know how your stock project works out and post a pic if yer into such things ;)
 
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