Came across this method about a year ago. It is especially suited to milsurps because it results in a low shine finish which is not glossy. I have been so pleased with the results that I felt I should share the info. I do not know if this method has appeared on here previously; if so perhaps it is worthwhile to update it.
Until now, I have used a mixture of two parts boiled linseed oil and one part turpentine and have always been satisfied with the result. This time, however, I used something a bit different. I 'Googled': "refinishing military rifle stocks" and found an article written by an American, #### Culver which described a method he learned from an older shooter one time at Camp Perry. I used the mixture he described and have been very satisfied with the appearance achieved. Looks great and should be weather resistant given what it consists of.
This is what I did:
1. Cleaned most of the dirt off so the really nice grain could be seen. I did NOT strip down to bare wood. I used three grades of steel wool, used dry, in succession - #1 (medium), #00 (very fine), and #0000 (superfine). This got most of the dirt off, created an extremely smooth surface, and left the original oil in the wood.
2. Applied the mixture (see below) three times (could apply more or less as desired).
The Mixture and How to Make it:
The mixture consists of 1/3 beeswax, 1/3 boiled linseed oil, 1/3 turpentine. The only item a bit hard to find is solid beeswax. Best bet is craft supply stores - I got a 1 lb. block at Michael's Arts and Crafts in Halifax.
For a container I recommend a Mason jar because it can be sealed tightly between uses. I used a 500 ml jar with 1/3 markings on the outside.
Chip beeswax into the jar up to the first 1/3 mark. Place the open jar in water in a pot and heat slowly on stove. Beeswax melts at about 140°F (60°C) so the water does not have to boil. Add wax if necessary to bring level to the mark.
After wax melts, remove jar from pot and allow to cool a bit, but not to the point that the wax starts to solidify.
Using a funnel, pour in boiled linseed oil to the next 1/3 mark and then pour turpentine to the final 1/3 mark.
Immediately stir (a few bits of solid wax my have been caused by the cooling effect of the oil and turpentine which were at room temperature - DO NOT HEAT THE OIL OR TURPENTINE - fire hazard). Stir well to be sure all the wax is in solution. The result will be a thick, creamy yellow liquid.
Applying the Mixture:
Apply with a 100% cotton cloth and rub well into the wood (I wear vinyl gloves). Keep at it until you are tired of rubbing and then buff with a piece of cotton towel. I let stand for about 24 hours and then repeat the process (stir the mix before using). Do this as many times as you think necessary. The result is a hand rubbed finish with a very low shine which is likely as close as you will ever get to what the stock looked like when newly oiled and before it went into service. It really brings out the grain very nicely.
CAUTION: The mixture soaked rags are very flammable and should be handled accordingly.
ADDED NOTE: After reading a post by "LeeEnfieldNo.4_mk1" in the Milsurp forum, I realized that I should point out the following: the BBLOT treatment described above is meant to be a final finish. I have only used it on milsurp stocks which had originally be treated with linseed oil AND on stocks to which I had previously (sometimes years earlier) applied 3 or 4 coats of boiled linseed oil + turpentine (two parts BLO to one part turp. - apply, wait for about 15 minutes, buff, and repeat next day). The BBLOT is a great way to spruce up milsurp stocks as noted above. I have no experience using it on bare wood - may not penetrate as well as BLO + turpentine as the initial treatment.
Here are the results of this treatment on my Lee-Enfield No.5 Jungle Carbine (yes, that is an FNC1 sling). Unfortunately, I do not have pics of the rifle before I worked on the stock - picture black dirt in the edges of the grain and a general grubby haze covering all of the wood:
_____________________________
Until now, I have used a mixture of two parts boiled linseed oil and one part turpentine and have always been satisfied with the result. This time, however, I used something a bit different. I 'Googled': "refinishing military rifle stocks" and found an article written by an American, #### Culver which described a method he learned from an older shooter one time at Camp Perry. I used the mixture he described and have been very satisfied with the appearance achieved. Looks great and should be weather resistant given what it consists of.
This is what I did:
1. Cleaned most of the dirt off so the really nice grain could be seen. I did NOT strip down to bare wood. I used three grades of steel wool, used dry, in succession - #1 (medium), #00 (very fine), and #0000 (superfine). This got most of the dirt off, created an extremely smooth surface, and left the original oil in the wood.
2. Applied the mixture (see below) three times (could apply more or less as desired).
The Mixture and How to Make it:
The mixture consists of 1/3 beeswax, 1/3 boiled linseed oil, 1/3 turpentine. The only item a bit hard to find is solid beeswax. Best bet is craft supply stores - I got a 1 lb. block at Michael's Arts and Crafts in Halifax.
For a container I recommend a Mason jar because it can be sealed tightly between uses. I used a 500 ml jar with 1/3 markings on the outside.
Chip beeswax into the jar up to the first 1/3 mark. Place the open jar in water in a pot and heat slowly on stove. Beeswax melts at about 140°F (60°C) so the water does not have to boil. Add wax if necessary to bring level to the mark.
After wax melts, remove jar from pot and allow to cool a bit, but not to the point that the wax starts to solidify.
Using a funnel, pour in boiled linseed oil to the next 1/3 mark and then pour turpentine to the final 1/3 mark.
Immediately stir (a few bits of solid wax my have been caused by the cooling effect of the oil and turpentine which were at room temperature - DO NOT HEAT THE OIL OR TURPENTINE - fire hazard). Stir well to be sure all the wax is in solution. The result will be a thick, creamy yellow liquid.
Applying the Mixture:
Apply with a 100% cotton cloth and rub well into the wood (I wear vinyl gloves). Keep at it until you are tired of rubbing and then buff with a piece of cotton towel. I let stand for about 24 hours and then repeat the process (stir the mix before using). Do this as many times as you think necessary. The result is a hand rubbed finish with a very low shine which is likely as close as you will ever get to what the stock looked like when newly oiled and before it went into service. It really brings out the grain very nicely.
CAUTION: The mixture soaked rags are very flammable and should be handled accordingly.
ADDED NOTE: After reading a post by "LeeEnfieldNo.4_mk1" in the Milsurp forum, I realized that I should point out the following: the BBLOT treatment described above is meant to be a final finish. I have only used it on milsurp stocks which had originally be treated with linseed oil AND on stocks to which I had previously (sometimes years earlier) applied 3 or 4 coats of boiled linseed oil + turpentine (two parts BLO to one part turp. - apply, wait for about 15 minutes, buff, and repeat next day). The BBLOT is a great way to spruce up milsurp stocks as noted above. I have no experience using it on bare wood - may not penetrate as well as BLO + turpentine as the initial treatment.
Here are the results of this treatment on my Lee-Enfield No.5 Jungle Carbine (yes, that is an FNC1 sling). Unfortunately, I do not have pics of the rifle before I worked on the stock - picture black dirt in the edges of the grain and a general grubby haze covering all of the wood:
_____________________________
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