Stock inletting to deep,how to fix?

[icehunter121]

So, finally getting to the replacement stock for the .375 and hit a small snag. The rifle is a rem 700 and the stock is a rem factory laminate. When I put it together the front screw protrudes into the receiver and the bolt wont close. The lettering on the side of the receiver is a little under the stock line and the box mag is tight in the action. So to me its sitting to deep. I started adding small pieces of masking tape right behind the recoil lug but in front of the stock bolt hole. At the rear I added tape to the rear of the tang to lift it also. On top of the small hump where the sling swivel stud is located I am adding pieces of tape on top of each other to raise the barrel up. The tape at the rear and front screws is put on the receiver and at the front I am adding it to the stock.

Then I am torquing to 30 inch pounds and trying the bolt to see if it binds. Then at 40 inch pounds it binds up so to me its a problem with the action twisting/sagging under pressure. Once I get it so that it doesnt bind and the front screw is not stopping the bolt from locking up I want to run a small bead of bedding at these 3 points to use as a spacer, let cure then bed from there. Its a lot of screwing around to say the least!! Any one done this any way that is faster?

 

[tiriaq]

Shims can be used to position the barreled action, holding it in place while bedding compound is curing. Don't pull it into place with the actual screws. Use headless guide screws and pull the barreled action down against the shims with surgical tubing, etc.

First thing I would do is shorten the screw and see if that solves the problem with everything else being in order.

 

[m1008]

I’d take it to a smith and have pillars put in if your uncomfortable doing yourself. If you still have your old stock experiment on that.

 

[icehunter121]

Shims can be used to position the barreled action, holding it in place while bedding compound is curing. Don't pull it into place with the actual screws. Use headless guide screws and pull the barreled action down against the shims with surgical tubing, etc.

First thing I would do is shorten the screw and see if that solves the problem with everything else being in order.

I thought about shortening the screw, but, the loading ramp is under the stock line, half the pressure hole on the receiver is under the stock line,writing/stamping is under the stock line..etc etc. I was thinking about plastic shims and tubing but trying to figure out what I could us for a shim. Its just inletted to deep!!

 

[tiriaq]

How does the rear tang sit?
If the entire barreled action has to be raised, the rear tang is going to look really odd.

 

[guntech]

It's a fairly easy fix... use headless screws to line the action up correctly. I usually have the bottom metal in place tp do this... just tape it in place to hold it there.

Then wrap tape around the barrel about 3 inches behind the forend tip... enough to keep the barrel centered... then a little more to lift it so the action is not too deep... then glass bed it this way with no tension... this is how you get stress free bedding.

I tape the front, sides and bottom of the recoil lug for clearance after bedding... sometimes the recoil lug inletting needs to be moved back a little... often it is too tight and the screws bind in the holes...

I use surgical tubing to lightly hold the rear of the action down while it all cures.

 

[icehunter121]

How does the rear tang sit?
If the entire barreled action has to be raised, the rear tang is going to look really odd.

I had to raise the tang about 5 thou due to compression of the wood. I removed the front tape near the forend and have about 10 pieces of tape right now at the recoil lug. Still some fine fiddling to do but may start removing pieces of tape at the tang and lug to drop it down a little. But where its at right now it looks alright and dont really have any bolt binding. I need a few hours straight to really get at it!!

 

[Ian Robertson]

Wow, seems like a tough one.
Try this. Get some aluminum at least .250 thick. Drill three holes in it. Two outside holes thread the outside holes 1/4-28, these should be far enough apart to clear when over the action. The hole in the middle is for whatever your scope hole screws are. Use a couple of headless screws to go through the action, be sure these are long enough out the bottom to be able to get vise grips on them. Adjust the screws so the action floats in the correct location. Do not use tubing or anything like that because you will bend the action. Use a single clamp on the rear fixture to lightly bottom the fixture on the stock, the weight of the barrel will pull the front down. Do not let the barrel touch anywhere and remove the front lumps. Mask off the stock with plastic tape of some sort, do not use masking tape. Too confusing? PM me for a picture.
Simple!

 

[45ACPKING]

Wow, seems like a tough one.
Try this. Get some aluminum at least .250 thick. Drill three holes in it. Two outside holes thread the outside holes 1/4-28, these should be far enough apart to clear when over the action. The hole in the middle is for whatever your scope hole screws are. Use a couple of headless screws to go through the action, be sure these are long enough out the bottom to be able to get vise grips on them. Adjust the screws so the action floats in the correct location. Do not use tubing or anything like that because you will bend the action. Use a single clamp on the rear fixture to lightly bottom the fixture on the stock, the weight of the barrel will pull the front down. Do not let the barrel touch anywhere and remove the front lumps. Mask off the stock with plastic tape of some sort, do not use masking tape. Too confusing? PM me for a picture.
Simple!

I get it..... others may not.

 

[Ian Robertson]

By the way, do you know what those front lumps are really for? When a barrel screws in crooked or a stock warps they are to align the front end with the barrel. You wouldn't want a misalignment to lose a sale.

 

[icehunter121]

By the way, do you know what those front lumps are really for? When a barrel screws in crooked or a stock warps they are to align the front end with the barrel. You wouldn't want a misalignment to lose a sale.

They have them on the synthetic stocks but this one didnt have it when I bought it. In my first post I stated the hump where the front swivel stud is located, that is where I was applying tape to raise the barrel. Alas, in the end I was able to get it sitting better in the action without this tape.