stock staining question

Grouser

CGN Regular
Rating - 100%
226   0   0
Location
Fredericton, NB
While I have refinished a good number of stocks over the years, I have run into a problem that puzzels me. I am refinishing a eastern european shotgun that was finished with a colored varnish. The wood underneath is very light in color (almost blonde). I have tried staining it with the resulting color I want but when I wet sand to fill the grain (oil method), it picks up the stain and the result lightens the wood too much. What can I do?
Cheers, John
 
It may not be the wood, but rather the stain that you are using. A water-based dye will not soak or penetrate the wood as well as an oil-based stain. Alternatively, you could also try an analine dye, available at Lee Valley, which will penetrate the wood. Failing that, the only idea that I have to finish and then fill the wood is to get some pore filler and dye it to fill the pores of the wood you are refinishing. This would save sanding your stain off, and add a nice touch to the pores you fill. Have fun!
 
Grouser: You have a common problem when using stains, particularly water based. The way to beat it is to make sure you have a lot of finish (full gloss surface) built up before you wet sand to fill the grain and don't sand all the way through the built up finish. Just sand it enough to get your slurry, rub the slurry cross grain to fill pores, allow to dry hard and then carefully wet with dilute linseed to remove any excess slurry before continuing applying finish. Water based stains are a problem as they raise the grain again even after whiskering the stock and you may have to re-sand after applying them and you remove portions of the stain. Aniline stains in alcohol don't do that and are a better option. Common oil based stains just don't penetrate evenly enough depending on grain exposure to suit most stock finishers. Inside curves of pistol grips often come out much darker than the flat surfaces for instance.

Another option that works pretty well is to get some tinted Schaftol from Bits of Pieces and wet sand several applications using it and then overfinish with Tru Oil or urethane etc. I use the red tinted most frequently but on some light color woods the dark brown works well. The stain in Schaftol seems to be in solution rather than suspension as it is with many oil based stains.
 
stain

Grouser: You have a common problem when using stains, particularly water based. The way to beat it is to make sure you have a lot of finish (full gloss surface) built up before you wet sand to fill the grain and don't sand all the way through the built up finish. Just sand it enough to get your slurry, rub the slurry cross grain to fill pores, allow to dry hard and then carefully wet with dilute linseed to remove any excess slurry before continuing applying finish. Water based stains are a problem as they raise the grain again even after whiskering the stock and you may have to re-sand after applying them and you remove portions of the stain. Aniline stains in alcohol don't do that and are a better option. Common oil based stains just don't penetrate evenly enough depending on grain exposure to suit most stock finishers. Inside curves of pistol grips often come out much darker than the flat surfaces for instance.

Another option that works pretty well is to get some tinted Schaftol from Bits of Pieces and wet sand several applications using it and then overfinish with Tru Oil or urethane etc. I use the red tinted most frequently but on some light color woods the dark brown works well. The stain in Schaftol seems to be in solution rather than suspension as it is with many oil based stains.

I do have and have used Schaftol --- have had great luck with it -- even put a little in Tru Oil with great success. I also have aniline dyes on hand -- alwats mixed them with water -- I,ll try them in alcohol.
Thanks
 
Back
Top Bottom