Initially posted as a reply to this thread:
http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php?937483-tavor-trigger-job-by-nutnfancy
However, given the fact that it can help quite a few people, I didn't want the info to be buried in post #49 of the other thread and therefore decided to start a new thread (this one). This is essentially my way of incorporating two suggested trigger jobs into one, without permanently removing the stock auxiliary return spring. Enjoy!
P.S. Do this at your own risk... as with anything DIY, there are no guarantees expressed or implied!
-------------------------------------
Just did the suggested trigger job in the video (bend hammer spring + mirror polish hammer/sear contact surfaces)... however, I decided to add a little "twist" to the equation based on the secondary return spring removal suggestions.
Not wanting to lose the added "bonus" of that secondary return spring and yet wanting to further benefit from a lighter trigger pull, I took the spring off one end and stretched it ever so slightly with a pair of long nose pliers to reduce it's pull. Since the spring stretched a bit further than I initially intended it to, I had to pinch the metal o-ring onto the trigger release in order to make it sit there permanently without the metal o-ring sliding off the notch when the pressure is off (in other words, I pinched the o-ring oval instead of round, which worked perfectly).
Now the trigger feels much better and all it has cost was 20 minutes of my time (unfortunately, I don't have a scale to measure the new trigger pull). Tools needed were 2 punches for the small/large hammer pins, a small hammer, 600 grit sand paper and a pair of needle nose pliers... and gun oil to lube everything when done, of course.
Hard to believe that 'Yoda' in the video (the gunsmith) charges $75 USD for the work. Should be a $25 job, plus return shipping.... lol!
Edit: Ok, I took some pics of mine with some descriptions to help you guys visualize it better:
Note: To disassemble trigger assembly to perform job, first draw out "pin 1" with a small punch or small nail, then proceed to drawing out "pin 2" with a larger punch. Be advised that "pin 1" has to be punched out from the front of the hammer (rear of hammer is pictured in above photo)
http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php?937483-tavor-trigger-job-by-nutnfancy
However, given the fact that it can help quite a few people, I didn't want the info to be buried in post #49 of the other thread and therefore decided to start a new thread (this one). This is essentially my way of incorporating two suggested trigger jobs into one, without permanently removing the stock auxiliary return spring. Enjoy!
P.S. Do this at your own risk... as with anything DIY, there are no guarantees expressed or implied!
-------------------------------------
Just did the suggested trigger job in the video (bend hammer spring + mirror polish hammer/sear contact surfaces)... however, I decided to add a little "twist" to the equation based on the secondary return spring removal suggestions.
Not wanting to lose the added "bonus" of that secondary return spring and yet wanting to further benefit from a lighter trigger pull, I took the spring off one end and stretched it ever so slightly with a pair of long nose pliers to reduce it's pull. Since the spring stretched a bit further than I initially intended it to, I had to pinch the metal o-ring onto the trigger release in order to make it sit there permanently without the metal o-ring sliding off the notch when the pressure is off (in other words, I pinched the o-ring oval instead of round, which worked perfectly).
Now the trigger feels much better and all it has cost was 20 minutes of my time (unfortunately, I don't have a scale to measure the new trigger pull). Tools needed were 2 punches for the small/large hammer pins, a small hammer, 600 grit sand paper and a pair of needle nose pliers... and gun oil to lube everything when done, of course.
Hard to believe that 'Yoda' in the video (the gunsmith) charges $75 USD for the work. Should be a $25 job, plus return shipping.... lol!
Edit: Ok, I took some pics of mine with some descriptions to help you guys visualize it better:
Note: To disassemble trigger assembly to perform job, first draw out "pin 1" with a small punch or small nail, then proceed to drawing out "pin 2" with a larger punch. Be advised that "pin 1" has to be punched out from the front of the hammer (rear of hammer is pictured in above photo)
Last edited:
