Stoeger 410 coach problem no fire from one side

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skainth

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I got a Stoeger 410 SXS coach gun, double trigger, i noticed sometimes the right side barrel wont fire when trigger is pulled, when i open the gun to check the shell does have a mark from firing pin. I did recently replace the firing pins on both side, because when i researched online many people said the pins can get worn out and bent so that can cause them not to fire.
any one else have this problem? could it be the springs maybe?
 
No offense but the Brazilian/ Portuguese guns are not quality guns.The metallurgy of most of the internal parts is way to soft and QC is Norinco level.They have been known to have crude unreliable triggers as well.I'd find a used Stevens or Savage.
 
It's almost always the firing pins. These are pretty much the guns of choice for cowboy shooters. They may not be top quality, but they work good and are inexpensive considering the abuse they go through. Most doubles eventually need firing pins no matter what make
 
Though its always a good idea to replace the stock Stoeger firing pins with stainless ones....longer lasting and more reliable.....I don't believe that is causing your problem. Or, that there is a problem with the springs.

Have experienced the same problem(usually with left barrel, though), myself. It's likely the locking bolt isn't going forward far enough, to securely lock the barrels into place....so the action is open slightly. 'Off the face' is the term usually used for this condition. Why?

To achieve a certain price point, Stoeger guns aren't fitted with the same care as more expensive guns. This is especially true with action fitment, ie: locking bolts and lugs. Take a look at the wear mark on the top of the front locking lug. How much of the top surface of the lug does it cover? If less than half, or not evenly worn across the lug's top surface; then the locking lug isn't coming as far forward as it needs, to secure the barrels onto the action face and fully engage the hammer springs. Plus, the surface of the lug is not flat and square to the locking bolt. At the factory, the locking lugs on these guns are likely just given a couple of licks with a file, until the action closes. So quite often, locking bolt/locking lug fitment is less than optimal. That is the likely source of your problem.

Does it happen more often when the gun is closed slowly, or with low to moderate force?

What happens here is that, as the locking bolt moves slowly forward, not enough spring pressure is available to drive it forward with sufficient force, So, it jams into the uneven surface of the lug and bounces back slightly, rather than sliding evenly across the lug and locking all the way forward. So, the gun's action pops open a hair, enough to cause it to go out of battery. Try closing the action with a good snap. Did the gun fire more reliably, this time? This time, spring energy was released faster... driving the bolt forward more energetically. So the gun went into battery. But this doesn't completely solve the problem.

Luckily, the cure is simple. Any competent gunsmith can fix the problem,in a matter of minutes. Or if you are handy with tools and careful, you can do it yourself.

One good resource for working on Stoeger(and other guns), is the 'Marauder' web page. This site is filled with useful information on how to tune these guns for optimal performance. Worth a look.
 
The imprint on the primer from the firing pin suggests that the pin is long enough to contact the primer, and that the pin does protrude past the fences when the trigger is pulled. Question: Is the imprint on the primer shallow or deep? The reason I ask is that it's common for firing pins to be long enough to contact the primer, but not long enough to hit it with authority. It's likely the firing pin has worn down or chipped to the point where the primer doesn't reliably go off.

If the problem is the lock spring, you can gauge the strength of the lock spring when you pull the hammer back. Is the right side hammer easier to #### than the left?
 
Further to this discussion: straightshooter's comments are at the heart of the problem. As you already know, from replacing your Stoeger's firing pins, that they are spring loaded. This enables them to retract and protect them from damage, when the gun opens. The process begins immediately, as soon as the action begins to open. This being true, if the gun's action is open the slightest bit: Even with plenty of spring energy available to drive the hammers, the pins are already too far back(not long enough)... to strike the primer with enough force to set it off. There will be a slight imprint or scratch, on the primer....nothing more. Is this what you are seeing?
When this first happened to me....I thought that the cheap shotgun shells I was using weren't headspacing consistently. The rims weren't often formed uniformly. So, I believed that may have been part of the problem. But, misfires persisted, even with high quality shotgun shells. They too, exhibited the same lightly scratched/pocked primers, as before. My conclusion: The problem had to exist elsewhere. Eventually, I concluded that locking bolt/locking lug fitment was the cause of all my problems. Since fixing this problem with my guns, they have been 100% reliable. I believe that is your problem, too. Of course I may be totally wrong,and the cause lies elsewhere. But may be worth looking into, just the same. Hope this helps.
 
Just thought of another possible cause.
Take off the forearm and examine the part of the underside of the forearm iron, where the cocking dogs engage. You should be able to see some wear marks. This part of the guns' fore ends are often very crudely finished from the factory. It is possible that too much metal was removed from the area the right barrel's cocking dog engages. In which case, the right cocking arm isn't always being pushed far enough back to fully lock the hammer into its cocking notch, and the hammer spring is not fully depressed. You can test this by either examining the wear marks. Does the right side show less wear than the left?
Or, by opening the gun slowly, and listening to the hammers as they ####. This is what straighshooter was referring to. Even with a hammerless gun, like the Stoeger, you should be able to hear whether one spring is weaker than the other. Or, whether one spring is being engaged fully. Often, this will happen when the gun is opened slowly. When opened briskly, the cocking arm's rearward momentum is enough to fully engage the hammer/spring.
If so, any competent gunsmith or welder can put a bit of tig weld on the affected spot. Then carefully file it until both hammers are timed correctly. In a high quality gun...they should #### at the same time. Stoegers on the other hand, being indifferently fitted, won't often time anywhere close to each other. But they too, can be made to time at least fairly close, by careful filing and fitting. Hope this info helps, too.
 
thanks for all the replys and help, yes when i look at the mark on the shell it is not as deep as the left side. so yes i think it could be not closing all the way. i will take it apart and examine it.
and yes i did notice that when it didnt fire i would open it and slam it shut again then it would fire no problem.
 
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