I just put a new varmit tasco scope on a 10/22 and I F$@ked up an allen bolt on one of the rings. The mount is sollid now, but what would be the best way to remove the bolt and replace it when I have to?? My baby huey tendancies got the best of me AGAIN!!
Stripped allen bolt on tasco
- Thread starter berger
- Start date
Drill it out and sacrifice the ring. If you monkey with it too much you will certainly damage the rifle or scope. Best to cut your losses and even if you ruin the rings, they are the cheapest part to replace.
It could be worse. I stripped the bolt that holds the ring onto the base once. It was a real PIA to cut that ring off without damaging anything else. Don't forget to cover up your rifle and scope before breaking out the drill, dremel, or files - those little shavings get everywhere.
350tracker
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Interlake Manitoba
I would try a small easy out first. It just might bite the edge of the hole on the head to remove the screw...
- Location
- British Canuckistan
I agree with this methodology. easy outs are the savior of mankind!
Drilling the head off the allen bolt is probably the most effective way to remove it. Once the head is off, and the rest of the screws are removed, you can grab the stub with a pair of pliers and back it out. Usually.
You might get lucky on an Eze-out that fits correctly.
Spring for some decent screws for the mounts. On the stuff I am not too worried about (read that, "using the cheapest mounts I can buy) I usually grind or saw-cut a slot across the head, and use a standard screwdriver. Between the screws being pretty lowgrade, and the wrench being the cheapest one the makers could source, stripping the screwheads has been the rule, rather than the exception.
I've drilled out, and tapped a few scope rins to take larger screws, too. Never had to, on the good quality mounts, though.
Cheers
Trev
You might get lucky on an Eze-out that fits correctly.
Spring for some decent screws for the mounts. On the stuff I am not too worried about (read that, "using the cheapest mounts I can buy) I usually grind or saw-cut a slot across the head, and use a standard screwdriver. Between the screws being pretty lowgrade, and the wrench being the cheapest one the makers could source, stripping the screwheads has been the rule, rather than the exception.
I've drilled out, and tapped a few scope rins to take larger screws, too. Never had to, on the good quality mounts, though.
Cheers
Trev
- Location
- Edmonton, Alberta
I agree with this methodology. easy outs are the savior of mankind!
you only like them cause your mechanically handicapped *must savor being able to mock family members*
Unless I can get my hands on it to see it first hand I'm just taking an educated guess.
1st option
I'd have to say your best bet is an easy out.
second option
as trevj said you could try to drill the head out then work out the shaft.
third choice
If you have to drill the bolt shaft out remember to start with the smallest drill bit and work up till the shafts body is almost drilled out. After that a wire brush and some small needle nose pliers and something like a metal engraver pick *like what they have in the little mini screw driver kits for eye glasses at the dollar store* or something similar would remove the threading and any remaining parts of the bolt shaft.
hope that works. I've used the last method twice successfully removing screws with a stripped head just never on something as delicate as a rifle and scope
tbg@sasktel.net
Member
- Location
- Historic Battleford
Get a very good standard blade screwdriver bit, use one of those ones you can buy for a buck or so at the hardware store. It should be just about as wide as the head of your allen screw, but not quite. Or, just a little bigger than the gash you left of the old hole. Working carefully, sharpen it down to nearly a knife edge, and then v-in the corners just a hair or two.
Using pads to prevent marring, chuck the scope into a vise, and after mounting the bit in a solid handle, place the bit across the screw at a place where some of the old hole edges remain, if any. Using a brass, or other solid hammer, tap the bit down into the screw head, basically forming a new channel for the blade. You need to give it two or three good blows, making sure to line up the same each time. Now you have a slot, use the bit as a screwdriver again, put lots of downward pressure on, and use a visegrip on the shaft of the screwdriver handle to apply turn.
Then, next time, take it to a gunsmith to mount the scope, hahaha!!
Using pads to prevent marring, chuck the scope into a vise, and after mounting the bit in a solid handle, place the bit across the screw at a place where some of the old hole edges remain, if any. Using a brass, or other solid hammer, tap the bit down into the screw head, basically forming a new channel for the blade. You need to give it two or three good blows, making sure to line up the same each time. Now you have a slot, use the bit as a screwdriver again, put lots of downward pressure on, and use a visegrip on the shaft of the screwdriver handle to apply turn.
Then, next time, take it to a gunsmith to mount the scope, hahaha!!
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