Stripped screw head in scope mount - what now?

KillerSquirrel

KillerSquirrel

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Hi all. I have a rifle that came with half a scope mount still screwed into the receiver. It looks like the previous owner tried to remove the scope mount without much success and in the process stripped the screw head. Here are some pics:



The rifle is a Remington Model 700 chambered in 7mm Remington Mag.

Are there any "safe" ways to get this screw out or should I just take it to a gunsmith?
 
No impact driver? a couple light whacks with a flat head bit should get it started coming out,hopefully it's not gummed up with thread locker
 
Hold a hot soldering iron tip to the screw head to destroy any threadlocker's grip. A metric set of bits might be oversize and grip the damaged internal hex, if you have to hammer it in, even better. Sometimes a quality torx bit will bite in, but the risk is if you snap it off inside the head. Can you turn the scope base Counter clockwise now that there is only 1 screw still in it?
 
I tried a metric bit, hammered it in and it was pretty snug but there was no way that screw was going to turn. I even tried holding a soldering iron to it for a minute with no success. Ugghh.
 
I'd try an impact driver as suggested above. You can get them for around $20 at Princess Auto. You hold it while you strike it with a hammer and it twists while the hammer blow holds it down tight.

I'd save drilling it out for last resort. You need good, uncompromised threads for the next screw. If I were going to drill it, I'd purposely use an oversized bit to remove just the head to get the base and the tension off it. Then I'd file the sides a little flat and use a locking plier on it. Failing that,I'd take to a professional.
 
guntech said:
It looks like it is a Millett ring... if it is Millett - garbage them and buy Leupold.
Click to expand...

Haha, I only have the one half. I don't have the other half or the other ring. I was already planning on going Leupold for this rifle after I get this stubborn beasty off :)

LongDraw said:
Canadian tire sells a small driver bit for this purpose.

http://www.canadiantire.ca/browse/pr...romSearch=true

I have used these and it works great!
Click to expand...

Are those small enough for these scope mount screws?
 
Carbide dental burr, in a Dremel tool.

Carve the head to a slot and use a slot screwdriver.

BTDT.

The low grade cheese that they make a lot of the socket head screws from these days is pretty easy to strip. If the heads are off size, just a tiny bit, and the key is worn, even easier.

On some of the mounts i use on rimfires and airguns, I have been known to hacksaw a slot across the head, and use a slot screwdriver.

This is for my use, so I am none too concerned about the opinions of others about the "workmanship". It just gotta work.

Cheers
Trev
 
Thanks for the tips everybody. After stripping the head completely with the easy-outs we decided to drill out the head and after removing the scope mount were able to remove the rest of it with pliers. Now to save up some cash for some Leupold action! :)
 
Some lapping compound in the screw head will give what ever you are using a little more bite.

Lee valley sells some in a small tube called "screw out" works great!
 
(Ronin) said:
Easy outs work maybe 1 out of 10 times..
Click to expand...

Yer probably using them wrong. Most people do. Or yours may have crappy edges on the teeth.

First, you have to have one in good shape, with no rolled edges or worn down ones.

Then you need to have the correct size drill for the screw/bolt/stud.

It should go without saying, that you have the smallest size Eze-out that you can use.

Drill as straight and as centered as you can. Drill deep enough that there is no chance of the Eze-out hitting the bottom of the hole.

Stick the Eze-out tip in the hole, align it, and tap it in with a small hammer, or a block of metal. The object is to seat the "teeth" into the material, and be able to get a grip on it.

After the Eze-out is seated, without removing it, place the tap handle (best choice) or wrench (not so good, but works) on the Eze-out, and apply slow even turn to it as well as pressure into the hole.

It "should" grip, and it "should" back out the screw.

If the hole is too large, the screw expands and grips the sides of the hole. Not good.

If you rock side to side, you tend to break loose the teeth of the Eze-out. Also not good.

Mostly Eze-outs are a decent tool to use on larger screws than stuff on scope mounts, but with care they can do. I have done literally thousands of #10, #8, and # 6 sized screws, and an awful pile of #4's. Mostly, for the #4, and #2 screws, a dental burr in an air turbine pencil grinder is the most reliable way. Slot the head (or the broken off shank) and remove with a slot screwdriver.

Application of a chunk of red hot barstock to a screw that was installed with the wrong type of Locktite has been useful when it is appropriate.
Lot's of heat, fast, and the remainder of the part does not have to heat up before the Locktite is destroyed.

Cheers
Trev
 
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