My buddy stripped the screw holes (6-48) in his SR1022 receiver (holes that the rail gets screwed to in the top of the receiver)
Being that I'm his favourite machinist, he asked me to fix it.
Since this is a reasonably common problem, I figured I'd go with the reasonably common solution of redrilling/tapping to 8-40. I'd have to buy the tap and screws, likely less than $50 for the tap and screws to my door.
But....at work, I have an M4x0.7 (~36.25tpi) helicoil kit, helicoils, and M4 screws. So this repair would cost nothing if I went that route.
Any reason the M4 helicoil kit isn't the way to go? The receiver is cast aluminum, so the stainless steel helicoils should be stronger with way less chance of stripping the holes again compared to directly threading the receiver to 8-40.
And considering the top of the receiver is approximately 3/16" thick, the effective difference in maximum amount of threads is ~3/4 of a thread between M4 and 8-40.
Anything I'm not considering?
Being that I'm his favourite machinist, he asked me to fix it.
Since this is a reasonably common problem, I figured I'd go with the reasonably common solution of redrilling/tapping to 8-40. I'd have to buy the tap and screws, likely less than $50 for the tap and screws to my door.
But....at work, I have an M4x0.7 (~36.25tpi) helicoil kit, helicoils, and M4 screws. So this repair would cost nothing if I went that route.
Any reason the M4 helicoil kit isn't the way to go? The receiver is cast aluminum, so the stainless steel helicoils should be stronger with way less chance of stripping the holes again compared to directly threading the receiver to 8-40.
And considering the top of the receiver is approximately 3/16" thick, the effective difference in maximum amount of threads is ~3/4 of a thread between M4 and 8-40.
Anything I'm not considering?