Stuck Choke Removal Tool

C

cbh560

CGN Regular
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Location
Martensville, SK
I have a choke that is stuck in my Stoeger M2000. Its stuck to the point that the little notches on the choke have stripped out. Now none of the regular removal tools will work. It's been soaking in penetrating oil for about 6 months now (I haven't had time to deal with it). The gunsmiths here in Saskatoon won't touch it.

Does anyone have a removal tool similar to the "Badass Choke Removal Tool" that they would be willing to lend or rent to me? I'd be willing to pay the shipping both ways and a rental fee.....

Thanks.
 
Im not a gunsmith but I run into one like this. Soaked and soaked for considerable time but would not release. I took a propane torch and heated the outside of the barrel till hot but not enough to weaken it. the tube came out but not easily. kept the oil to it when it started to move. It had got wet and threads were rusted. a good clean up and a new choke with lube and all was fine. To remove the choke after the wrench slots were worn I used a small segmented pipe expander that my buddy had at the exhaust pipe shop. We cut a couple of steel inserts and put between the segments and tightened it up just enough to bite.
 
I was thinking of the same thing. The addition of heat does wonders. I've taken seized parts an immersed them in a can of boiling hot diesel fuel and ATF before to un seize parts. The heat shock makes the oil wick right into the parts.
Also a rocking motion to the part (similar to tapping threads) helps once you get the part freed up a bit. If you can wiggle it but not turn it just keep wiggleing, apply a bit of compressed air to the joint this can help drive out loose dirt and debris as well as drive in oil once some extra clearance is obtained from blowing away this rusty oil a few times it will usually start to move.....if you've bulged the barrel however this can be ineffectual.
A cold damp cloth applied to the inside of a choke tube during and after the heat has been applied to the out side of the barrel(hot enough to not want to hold onto but not more) will cause the tube to shrink while the still hot barrel is thermaly expanded.(Take care to cool the tube only with the damp cloth)
I've heard of guys using large easy outs, expandable reamers or tapered reamers lightly wedged in to remove stuck/broken off pipe nipples from expensive headers/valves etc. When encountering seized threaded hydraulic, plumbing or steam pipes...this application seems very similar. Care should be taken to avoid TOO much seating pressure with a tool like this as it can stretch the part slightly making the stuck part even tighter, tight enough to grip but not stretch
 
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in addition to the heat methods above, you might be able cut new choke wrench notches with a dremel tool and one of the various diamond covered burrs. I have used that method to remove broken screws with the break flush with the surface.

cheers mooncoon
 
mooncoon said:
in addition to the heat methods above, you might be able cut new choke wrench notches with a dremel tool and one of the various diamond covered burrs. I have used that method to remove broken screws with the break flush with the surface.

cheers mooncoon
Click to expand...

Also a londitudinal groove can allow the choke tube to collapse in on its self giving extra clearance.....be very carefull not to break through the tube and damage the barrel however! Thinning the wall should be enough
 
No experience with stuck chokes, but have had similar problems with stripped drain plugs in transfer cases.
An option to consider is to sand the inside of the choke tube to rough it up a bit and degrease it well. Next use JB weld or a similar epoxy putty and glue in a socket (Torx sockets work well in my experience). Let the epoxy harden, put your ratchet on the socket and see if it moves. If the epoxy/socket breaks loose consider the more destructive techniques mentioned by others.
 
Since it has been sitting in penetrating oil for 6 months, I would just take it out and fire a box of shells through it, in rapid fire mode. If that isn't enough heat and shock to get things moving, then try any of the above methods starting with the least destructive.
 
The choke is a write off. I'm not concerned about saving it. I do want to get it out without damaging the threads or the barrel. As far as I can tell, the barrel isn't bulged. When I took it to a smith, he gaged the choke. It was a fair bit smaller diameter than a fill choke should have been. About 0.010" smaller. I double checked, it's supposed to be a regular full choke. I think this choke was likely over pressured and slightly expanded.

Any ideas where to purchase a pipe expander? I'm not familiar with them. Are they expensive?

My next idea was the epoxy method. Maybe that will hold hard enough to get it out. I've got a pound of devcon sitting around somewhere.
 
The problem I had with the drain plugs is that anything you hammered in to them would cause the plug to expand slightly requiring more force to remove. I can see a pipe expander doing the same thing. When I was told about the epoxy method I was doubtful it would have enough grip, but it worked like a charm. With a choke tube you have a lot more surface area for the epoxy to grab. You do not need to glue in a socket, a piece of square tubing or even a thick piece of flat bar should give you enough grip. Just make sure you prep the surface well so the epoxy sticks to it.
 
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