Stuck live round in chamber - need help!

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shanesymyrozum

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I just bought a new Weatherby in 7 mm Rem and took it out to sight in. I've been loading my own ammo for a few years, but found that my loads were mostly impossible to chamber in my new weatherby, but worked smooth as butter in my old Ruger. I had a few old factory loads that worked fine. After firing my five factory rounds, I was able to get a few reloads reluctantly chambered and fired (nickel plated brass), but then I tried some regular brass and promptly got one stuck in the chamber and the bolt wouldn't extract it. I've tried to push it out with a cheap aluminum cleaning rod with no luck, just bent the rod, and am thinking about going to home depot and get a wood dowel. My reluctance with this is that I read a post somehwere that said if you're trying to push out a live round you can force the powder so hard back toward the primer that the round will fire.

Is this true? If it is, do you think the guys at Wholesale Sports (Edmonton) will be able to extract the bullet or will I have to go to a gunsmith to have it done? Roughly how much will they charge? Is there any other remedy for this problem that I could carry out on my own? And finally, is there anything I can do to be able to shoot my reloaded ammo through this new rifle.

I anxiously await your answers.:confused:
 
First off are you full length resizing your brass as well as trimming them before reloading? Weatherby brass tends to stretch rather quickly.A hardwood dowel and a suitable club should work.if not put the entire gun in the deepfreeze for a couple hrs and then try.A shot of WD40 down the spout may help but may kill the loaded round................Good luck...........Harold
 
Don't be pounding something down the bore with a live round in the chamber.
A few inches of penetrating oil sitting in the barrel for a week or so MIGHT deactivate the live round.
Seek professional help if you are unsure.
 
#1 You shouldn't be using loads for one rifle in the other. It's not chambering because your Weatherby has a tighter chamber.Work up new loads for your new rifle.

#2 A dowel and hammer will work, just remove the bolt. And be careful...
 
Do not use a wood dowel. When it breaks inside a barrel it really makes it more complicated.

Sometimes cases jam in so tight it is hard to believe the force required to get them out.

Use a steel rod that fits the bore closely with a layer of tape on it every 6 inches or so to protect the bore. The end of it should be flat and the other end should only protrude from the bore about 3 inches.

Use a vise to hold the rifle, with the bolt out, don't stand in line with the bore at either end. Tap lightly with a heavy hammer, increasing the force as required. Protect the muzzle from the hammer hitting it when the case pops loose.

New brass should be used for a new rifle. Brass fired in one should not be used in another for best results.
 
And when you're hammering, keep all body parts away from the muzzle - if it somehow lets go you don't want your shoulder or head on the recieving end of a cleaning rod attaining supersonic speeds.


Edit - A friend of mine had this exact thing happen when he was full length resizing. Took a long and harrowing time to deal with.

Thing is, I'm having the same problem with my brass - and my case OAL is way below max, and they've been fully resized! Some guns just have way tighter chambers?
 
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Here is a method I have used successfully - you will need a rod a few inches long, very close to bore size. Smooth slip fit. Fill the bore with oil. Start the rod in. Strike it with a hammer. The hydraulic pressure will drive the bullet into the case, flooding the powder, perhaps even pushing out the primer. Refill if needed, hit it again. This should force the round from the barrel.
 
It might be safer to try firing the round? At least then you're just dealing with an inert piece of brass.

I'd seek professional help if possible.
 
tiriaq said:
Here is a method I have used successfully - you will need a rod a few inches long, very close to bore size. Smooth slip fit. Fill the bore with oil. Start the rod in. Strike it with a hammer. The hydraulic pressure will drive the bullet into the case, flooding the powder, perhaps even pushing out the primer. Refill if needed, hit it again. This should force the round from the barrel.
Click to expand...


To me this seams the best idea.
And the BOLT OUT, that's important.
 
A buddy has got a stuck round extractor tool. It slips in instead of the bolt, tightens up from the side with an Allen wrench and a small slide hammer gives a little tap and it's out. I can't remember who makes it, but it might be Sinclairs.
 
I think I've heard about not using brass fired in one rifle in another one, long time ago. Before I even got my PAL. But I don't think I''ve seen it mentioned in any reloading manual - maybe cases like this should find its way into books.
 
Thanks for the help!

I've got the gun in the freezer with a barrel full of oil. I guess brass and stainless contract at different rates. Let's hope it works. I've blown the allowance my wife gives me to spend on toys, if you know what I mean, and it sounds like I'm going to be buying new brass and having to work up some new loads for this gun. Thanks for all your prompt replies.:)
 
Gunsmith

H Wally said:
And when you're hammering, keep all body parts away from the muzzle - if it somehow lets go you don't want your shoulder or head on the recieving end of a cleaning rod attaining supersonic speeds.


Edit - A friend of mine had this exact thing happen when he was full length resizing. Took a long and harrowing time to deal with.

Thing is, I'm having the same problem with my brass - and my case OAL is way below max, and they've been fully resized! Some guns just have way tighter chambers?
Click to expand...

If you are trying to push it out from the muzzle, and the round goes off, THE BARREL WILL EXPLODE and crack. If that happens, you could lose your hand, eye or much more.

I would seek a gunsmith. He knows what he is doing.
 
newbie said:
If you are trying to push it out from the muzzle, and the round goes off, THE BARREL WILL EXPLODE and crack. If that happens, you could lose your hand, eye or much more.

I would seek a gunsmith. He knows what he is doing.
Click to expand...

I think bottom of the case will work as burst plate - that's why everybody recommended to remove bolt first. Steel rod used for punching ain't going to fly at supersonic speed either, especially with hammer at the other end. In worst case bottom of cartridge will blow apart and nothing else will happen. Don't get me wrong, I am all for safety but I would hate to see my gunsmith dealing with these baby issues all day instead of machining my new barrel.
 
Problem solved

Thanks for all the helpful posts. 3 hours in the freezer with a barrel full of oil follwed by a good whack was just what the doctor ordered.:):)
 
Toada so!!!!!!!!!!!!!Glad it worked out...............Harold ****** FL resize all your brass and keep them trimmed to the correct length and brass can be used in any gun.ONLY EXCEPTION CAN BE SEMI-AUTOS ,LEVERS AND SOME PUMPS MAY REQUIRE SB DIES
 
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