Ok, I got some tricks too, but they don't seem to be working on 123 year bushing that's fused itself in the cylinder. Currently submerged in WD-40 for the past 24+ hrs. Any thoughts or ideas? Good bad or ugly, lets hear em...
Stuck S.A.A. Cylinder Bushing...
- Thread starter DANCESWITHEMPTIES
- Start date
Had a stuck one on a SAA I no longer own. I ended up using an extra new bushing and a hammer to drive it out from the rear. Ruined both bushings but I had a few extra new ones so I was okay. What I should have done was turn a properly sized punch on the lathe at work. As I recall it took A LOT of hammering to get it loose.
After I got it out I put tape on the front of the cylinder and gave the chambers and bushing hole a few doses of Evaporust to clean them up.
After I got it out I put tape on the front of the cylinder and gave the chambers and bushing hole a few doses of Evaporust to clean them up.
burnt_servo
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- right in the middle of b.c.
i just googled evaporust ..... very interesting stuff ....... i can see all sorts of uses for it .
X2 on evaporust, available in canadian tire. I had a sticky/stuck(rust) cylinder retention pin on an old 32 nickled rimfire revolver. I dunked the whole revolver in evaporust and like magic in a few hours seriously all of the rust was gone and everything was rotating like new. Just be careful I am fairly certain it will take blue finish off and you need to oil quickly after your remove your parts or you will get flash surface rust.
Nope....please use this old Diesel Mechanics trick....works for seized parts on SALT trucks! 60% diesel fuel 40% automatic transmission fluid, mix and submerge parts for two days if severely seized (123 years qualifies)....it WILL come apart with a little effort.
no fear of "flash surface rust or harming the blue" with this either....and it's cheap.
no fear of "flash surface rust or harming the blue" with this either
....and it's cheap.
Get it hot; like boiling water hot and quench with cold through the center of the bushing. In theory the bushing should shrink before the cylinder if you put the quenching medium through the bushing. Then tap on it or try to add penetrating medium.
I shocked a sawed of axle out of a '47 Minneapolis Moline hub this way. Got a hole machined through the center of the axle, heated the whole she-bang up with a rosebud and shocked it with raw propane. The first time you quench red hot metal with raw propane your rosebud will be clenched up; I'll tell you that , LOL. Want to try that out on the driveway in the winter I might add.
Done that sorta thing on different stuff working rigs. Quenching red hot pump seats out with a bottle jack, torch and a water hose; they almost hit the roof. Pretty cool actually.
Good luck; stay safe.
I shocked a sawed of axle out of a '47 Minneapolis Moline hub this way. Got a hole machined through the center of the axle, heated the whole she-bang up with a rosebud and shocked it with raw propane. The first time you quench red hot metal with raw propane your rosebud will be clenched up; I'll tell you that , LOL. Want to try that out on the driveway in the winter I might add.
Done that sorta thing on different stuff working rigs. Quenching red hot pump seats out with a bottle jack, torch and a water hose; they almost hit the roof. Pretty cool actually.
Good luck; stay safe.
.....cut a gas shock with an oxy/acy torch now that's cool...not recommended but cool
Now submerged in Kroil, as I had some on hand. Reluctant to use heat, so I'll leave it for a day or two & try my luck later. I'll get nasty with it as last measure or take it to a machinist I know...
Going to make up a batch of diesel/ transmission fluid tomorrow & try it on some old part to see what it does to the finish on it before soaking this cylinder in it...
Going to make up a batch of diesel/ transmission fluid tomorrow & try it on some old part to see what it does to the finish on it before soaking this cylinder in it...
I don't think it'll mess the patina....good call on using something else first though...let us know...patience it the utmost of virtues when doing this sort of thing
Just a wild arsed guess, but seems to me it's the corrosion that has created the 'interference fit' between those parts. Would there be any harm in cycling between a 250 degree oven and the deep freeze a couple of times?. With attempts to dislodge made while warm, when the larger dia. cyl. should have expanded more than the bushing?.
I agree it's corrosion. You figure 250 degrees is enough? A friend use to do bearing installs in press fittings like that (bearing in the freezer/ housing in the oven), but I thought there was more heat involved? To me 250 degs is negligible to any finish IMO. That I may try...
Nope....please use this old Diesel Mechanics trick....works for seized parts on SALT trucks! 60% diesel fuel 40% automatic transmission fluid, mix and submerge parts for two days if severely seized (123 years qualifies)....it WILL come apart with a little effort.
no fear of "flash surface rust or harming the blue" with this either
yup it works this trick also works on an engine if you have sticky oil rings on your pistons had a 327 chevy in an old beaumont that was burning oil so my dad just brought the rpm up and poured like a gallon of this through the carb with the motor running the smoke would choke you but he then got me to take her out for a good hard run and no more smoking lol so it could work wonders
- Location
- vancouver island
freeing seized parts
if you have the patience evaporust will do the job but it will remove patina, blueing or browning-i've used it down an original m/l barrel to help in removing the breech plug. after 48 hours or so drain-apply gentle heat and the plug turned out with about 30 lbs pressure. tried before the treatment and 85 lbs would not budge it. great stuff in my never-so-humble opinion.
if you have the patience evaporust will do the job but it will remove patina, blueing or browning-i've used it down an original m/l barrel to help in removing the breech plug. after 48 hours or so drain-apply gentle heat and the plug turned out with about 30 lbs pressure. tried before the treatment and 85 lbs would not budge it. great stuff in my never-so-humble opinion.
Lee Enfield
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Republic of Alberta
Take a metal coffee can (strip the lable) fill with water(distilled preferred) bring to boil on stove. Suspend cylinder (wire thru base pin hole) so it can't contact element.
Boil for as long as you have the water level.
Remove and cover with penetrating oil.
Usually these things have carmelized oil mixed with light corrosion holding the bushing in.
Boil for as long as you have the water level.
Remove and cover with penetrating oil.
Usually these things have carmelized oil mixed with light corrosion holding the bushing in.
fingers284
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Alberta Cowboy Ranges
I would try a Hyd. beering press that most any repair shop has if your worried about the finnish with all the cemicals sugested. Just make sure you have the entire face of the cylinder supported (except for a hole only big enough for the bushing to go thru) so that it doesn't distort when under pressure. Use a push pin that is big enough to handle the stress but small enough that it won't expand and tighten up in the cyl. hole.
The other methods sugested with repeated beating will probably pean the bushing enough that it may be unusable afterwards.
I don't know where you are but if your close to central Ab. I have a 20t you can use.
The other methods sugested with repeated beating will probably pean the bushing enough that it may be unusable afterwards.
I don't know where you are but if your close to central Ab. I have a 20t you can use.
