SVT-40 firing pin retaining pin

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jthomas194

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I got an SVT-40 the other day, and as I wanted to make sure that the rifle was in good condition and ready to fire, I took it apart according to the excellent tutorial I was recommended.
my issue I can’t seem to figure out is the bolt, I got it out, but even with the punch provided, I can’t seem to knock the bolt through.
I assume I’m supposed to use a brass punch, to avoid damaging the metal, but is there any easier way to knock it through? I assume it’s full of cosmoline, does anyone know a good way of loosening it out? I assume it hasn’t been cleaned in a while, as the gas cup was seized to the gas tube and it was filthy when I got it (It was a display rifle at a gun show).
 
jthomas194 said:
I got an SVT-40 the other day, and as I wanted to make sure that the rifle was in good condition and ready to fire, I took it apart according to the excellent tutorial I was recommended.
my issue I can’t seem to figure out is the bolt, I got it out, but even with the punch provided, I can’t seem to knock the bolt through.
I assume I’m supposed to use a brass punch, to avoid damaging the metal, but is there any easier way to knock it through? I assume it’s full of cosmoline, does anyone know a good way of loosening it out? I assume it hasn’t been cleaned in a while, as the gas cup was seized to the gas tube and it was filthy when I got it (It was a display rifle at a gun show).
Click to expand...

The pin can be drifted either way so try to punch it from the other side. Use a good brass or steel punch,put the bolt on a solid surface(good block of wood do well) and give it a sharp blow, you will get it out, dont worry you wont break anything, those pin can be really tight sometimes.
Joce
 
I've been bashing at that thing for weeks whenever I get the chance. I've been using the drift that came with the rifle's 'cleaning kit' and I've not been able to budge the thing. I've heard mention of soaking the bolt in solvent, or trying a brass punch (the stock one is sliding off and making a squeaking noise and only making marks in the retaining pin.)
 
jthomas194 said:
I've been bashing at that thing for weeks whenever I get the chance. I've been using the drift that came with the rifle's 'cleaning kit' and I've not been able to budge the thing. I've heard mention of soaking the bolt in solvent, or trying a brass punch (the stock one is sliding off and making a squeaking noise and only making marks in the retaining pin.)
Click to expand...
You'll need a proper sized drift punch to drive it out. Brownells sells them for the correct size tips.
I have removed pins that were rusted with these punches and penetrating oil. Broken many punches too, but brass will only deform.
The fact that it's seized and the gas tube filthy is a must to get it out and clean out properly.
The cleaning kit punch was probably never designed for hammering seized pins.
 
Gas cup seized and FP retaining pin seized as well?

"Display" gun a a gun show?

Your rifle, friend, has been fired with corrosive ammo, stored where it was damp and then not cleaned for a long time. Your problem is RUST, created by the SALT spread around in the gas system and blowing into the Bolt from the corrosive primers.

Soak the Bolt in a good rust remover, tap the pin out, scrub any remaining rust off with steel-wool, lubricate and reassemble.

To avoid problems such as this in future, use only noncorosive-primed ammunition or (if you really MUST shoot surplus) clean the rifle using hot WATER IMMEDIATELY after shooting, then oil.

Good luck.
 
After soaking in rust repellent for several days, and trying with several different types of drifts (and snapping several in the process) I am out of ideas, short of taking it to the gun shop, or trading it in for a Mosin Nagant..
 
Kroil and evapo rust should do it, kroil is a penetrating oil and it certainly does its job, I've used it on guns and my m35a2 cargo truck and it will get things un-seized. As for the evapo rust its by far the best rust remover I have come across and its non corrosive so it only removes the rust and any form blueing, and it can be found at cdn tire.
 
svt1940 said:
The pin can be drifted either way so try to punch it from the other side. Use a good brass or steel punch,put the bolt on a solid surface(good block of wood do well) and give it a sharp blow, you will get it out, dont worry you wont break anything, those pin can be really tight sometimes.
Joce
Click to expand...

I understand that this is generally accepted, but I don't think it's necessarily true. On one of my SVT's I can drift the Firing Pin retaining pin to the right, but no matter how hard I pound, it will NOT drift out to the left, nor will it seat properly if you try to reinstall it from the left. Pin is not corroded, but does seem to have a very slight bevel to it. Perhaps an armourer threw in the wrong part?
 
I wasn't able to locate any Kroil, I guess it's tricky to get in Canada, or at least the several stores I visited, but I now have the bolt soaking in PB blaster, which is what I have been understood to be the available equivalent. I also got myself a better punch. I'm hoping I can get the pin loose. I don't like the idea of firing a rifle that I can't fully disassemble, especially in the part I find gets fouled in other rifles.
 
I had the same issue,firing pin retaining pin would not come out no matter how hard I beat on it.
So I put the bolt under the drill press and drilled the pin out,glad I did,firing pin,spring and channel were filled with rusty gunk.
After cleaning it all out made a new pin in the lathe and polished the firing pin which started to rust already.
Had I not done this I may have ended up with a full auto SVT 40 caused by a stuck firing pin!
 
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