SVT 40 peculiarities

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I decided to take the plunge and get an SVT 40, and I was wondering if there are any quirks I should be aware of on this rifle that one should pay attention to, such as brass ejection (IE any possible mangling) or gas system issues.

Any help is appreciated.
 
Clean the thing up properly, degrease the innards, blow out the bolt with brake-drum cleaner and take it shooting. If it throws the brass too far (stuff should land on the table beside you; most accurate that way) adjust the gas system.

Weakest part in a Tok is the long, skinny rod coming back from the gas-cup to the shoter rod that actually shoves the bolt carrier back. They used to bend, especially in the cold weather: combination of bloody cold, poor design and cruddy materials in some of them. A machinist friend has the idea that substituting a length of good-grade TUBING for this rod will get rid of the problems. From what I know of the properties of materials, it sounds like a good idea.

Clean it up, take it out, have lotsa funs. Pick up your brass afterwards, take it home, reload it and do it all again.
 
I decided to take the plunge and get an SVT 40, and I was wondering if there are any quirks I should be aware of on this rifle that one should pay attention to, such as brass ejection (IE any possible mangling) or gas system issues.

Any help is appreciated.

If you're shooting milsurp ammo, you have to clean it immediately and well...they are a fairly big job to strip and clean. Once you've disassembled it a couple of times you'll get the hang of it.

Best look on the net for disassembly instructions.

I acquired a stainless steel piston and cup for mine, the stock gas piston is very vulnerable to rust without thorough and timely cleaning.
 
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