Swap barrels with a scope on it

G

Gabriel S.

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Good morning,
I have a Tikka action with a proof 6.5 PRC barrel. I want a 7 PRC, too, but I don't want to build another rifle. I would like to buy a vice and wrench to be able to swap them in the comfort of my reloading cave :)
Can I swap barrels with the scope on? If yes, how do you do it? What equipment do you use? Vise, wrench, cheater bar, etc?
I am aware of the risk of breaking the scope, and I think there are ways to mitigate that risk.
Any insight will be much appreciated.

Thanks.
 
Whether you damage the scope depends on how tight the barrel fit is would be my guess. Some shooters change the barrel without taking the scope off and without removing the stock. This requires an internal action wrench and a barrel vice bushing the engages the barrel ahead of the stock.
 
guntech said:
Whether you damage the scope depends on how tight the barrel fit is would be my guess. Some shooters change the barrel without taking the scope off and without removing the stock. This requires an internal action wrench and a barrel vice bushing the engages the barrel ahead of the stock.
Click to expand...
Do you have any preference for the vice? Is it safe to assume any internal action wrench? I remember seeing a bent internal action wrench advertised for barrel swamps at the range/competition, but I can't find it online.
 
Yes you can and yes I’ve done it. However with precision rings I just pull the scope off (still attached to the rings.) and then reinstall after and haven’t had an issue with accuracy or re-zeroing. One piece scope mounts are fantastic for this however I mostly use two piece to be lighter.

Removing the factory barrel the first time will be the pain. I have removed multiple factory barrels and have a technique figure out for my stuff but it’s what works for me.

As far as barrel vice I’d recommend the vice that PR Precision makes with the inserts. Similar to the SAS one but Canadian made. He also makes internal action wrenches. The action wrenches are specific to the action brand/make so not any wrench will work. I have used a viper barrel vice and it works but it has more potential to damage or scratch the barrel.

I also prefer to pull the stock of the rifle off. You also need to figure out your headspacing method. I use headspace gauges and then set a witness mark on the action and barrel. This way I don’t need the gauges for future swaps but they are nice to have around for safety.

Here is a list of the tools I use when swapping barrels:

- Barrel Vice
- Action Wrench
- Torque Wrench (or a breaker bar if you are just matching witness marks.)
- Torque Screwdriver for scope or stock removal/reinstall
- Grease for tenon and action.
- C Clamps to hold down vice (as I can’t bolt it directly to the kitchen table.)
- Headspace Gauges (Go and No Go.)

I have other tools that I keep around for this like a couple sockets etc but yours will depend on your wrenches etc. I have been successful with this and it has allowed me to even swap barrels on my tailgate when shooting in the bush or up at the cabin when I’m away hunting. I usually just setup the scope so it sticks to one action.

B
 
bdb.hunting said:
Yes you can and yes I’ve done it. However with precision rings I just pull the scope off (still attached to the rings.) and then reinstall after and haven’t had an issue with accuracy or re-zeroing. One piece scope mounts are fantastic for this however I mostly use two piece to be lighter.

Removing the factory barrel the first time will be the pain. I have removed multiple factory barrels and have a technique figure out for my stuff but it’s what works for me.

As far as barrel vice I’d recommend the vice that PR Precision makes with the inserts. Similar to the SAS one but Canadian made. He also makes internal action wrenches. The action wrenches are specific to the action brand/make so not any wrench will work. I have used a viper barrel vice and it works but it has more potential to damage or scratch the barrel.

I also prefer to pull the stock of the rifle off. You also need to figure out your headspacing method. I use headspace gauges and then set a witness mark on the action and barrel. This way I don’t need the gauges for future swaps but they are nice to have around for safety.

Here is a list of the tools I use when swapping barrels:

- Barrel Vice
- Action Wrench
- Torque Wrench (or a breaker bar if you are just matching witness marks.)
- Torque Screwdriver for scope or stock removal/reinstall
- Grease for tenon and action.
- C Clamps to hold down vice (as I can’t bolt it directly to the kitchen table.)
- Headspace Gauges (Go and No Go.)

I have other tools that I keep around for this like a couple sockets etc but yours will depend on your wrenches etc. I have been successful with this and it has allowed me to even swap barrels on my tailgate when shooting in the bush or up at the cabin when I’m away hunting. I usually just setup the scope so it sticks to one action.

B
Click to expand...
Thank you. Where do you clamp the barrel in the vice?
 
Gabriel S. said:
Thank you. Where do you clamp the barrel in the vice?
Click to expand...
For the most part I try to clamp as close to the action as possible. So if I was leaving the scope on I’d do it maybe 1/2” to an 1” from the objective housing. However because I tend to just pull scopes off I clamp maybe 3” from the action at most depending on my clamp setup.

B
 
I was a 700 man... my 700 wrench could be used on the end of an extension for an action in the stock
wrench.jpg
 
You're probably going to need to pull the scope and use an external action wrench the first time due to how tight they are (reportedly, I haven't pulled a tikka barrel myself).

Then as long as you don't go crazy putting it on the internal wrench would take care of the swaps going forward.

The carbon barrel might be a problem? In that you're probably going to want to put the barrel vice onto the exposed steel by the action, which probably means taking the scope off. Again depending on how hard you wrench it back on, and your comfort level regarding clamping the carbon fiber, this might only be a problem the first time you break it loose.
 
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I wouldn’t clamp on the carbon. I’d definitely be clamping on the steel only!

That all said why are you trying to keep the scope on ? With good rings and a proper setup you can just undo the rail attachment and should hold zero close enough. Especially if you’re swapping cartridges you will need to re zero anyways as they will have slightly different trajectories.

B
 
Honestly super easy. I use ATRS rings for all my rifles and just undo the cross bolts, take the scope off, swap barrel. Re install scope. Away you go. Cause the scopes already leveled to the action.

I do want to pickup a one piece mount one day though as I think it might be better!

B
 
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