Swede reloads......

yellowknifedave

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Just got dinged with a box of cartridges, and have decided to start reloading my Swede.......

I would like to load some 85 grain bullets for coyotes, 120 grain for deer, and 140 grain (or plus) for moose and bear.

My question is this; will I be able to load these three bullet sizes to balistics close enough not to have to adjust the scope when switching?

I know I can record the clicks between rounds, and adjust when I switch, but I want to try to avoid this. Is it possible?

Thanks

YKD
 
You never know until you shoot it. Sometimes they are close and sometimes they aren't.

You have a couple options. I generally stick to the 140's regardless if I am shooting deer or moose. If you plan on saving hides then an ultra tough bullet like the 120ish x-bullets might be your best bet. They will work on the big game and punch right through a coyote
 
YD, I load up 95 grn for coyotes and 140 grn for deer. the difference on target is 2 in low at 100yds for the 140 grn. I've tried the 120s and don't like them much for deer, that's just IMHO. That may or may not be close enough for you. I just dial up the elevation for the heavier bullets and all is well to 400+yds.
 
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I doubt that an 85 gr. and 140 gr. bullet will have same practical impacts at 100 yards....but it should be fun trying to actually to find out.

I would work up the main load you want to use for most of the game you shoot with a 140 and then play around with your lighter load to see if you can get the same impact.

One of my winter projects is to play around with my 6.5x55 and 85 gr. bullets. IMR-4064 should be able to this. The issue is most of these rifles have long throats (my coal with 140's is around 3.2") so hopefully the bullets wont mind the extra "jump"
 
I can't get my Swede to shoot the lighter bullets (<120 gr.) however yours may be different and the only way to find out is to try it. That's what keeps shooting interesting for me.

On other calibers, I have successfully used different weight bullets. First I get the optimum hunting load worked out then I "ladder load" for my secondary bullet. I have always found a usable P.O.I. with acceptable accuracy this way for the second bullet although it may not be the best ballistically.
 
swede

Thanks for the input so far guys. It is good to hear. I want to spend a lot of time at the range just che checking things out, and I want to change to a "one gun" philosophy (okay, maybe two).

I have a few different casings to work with, so let me ask another question. How much difference does the casing make? I have probably 100 federals, the same amount of S&B, and probably 50 boxer primed surplus. Should I load a different case for each bullet weight? How much difference will the same load loaded into two differnt cases make?

Thanks again. I appreciate your knowledge and input.

YKD
 
yes,

Not sure much difference there will be in your s&b and Fed cases but I found a big difference with Remington and Winchester cases. There just isnt' as much capacity in the Remington Case. I notice this the pressure signs at the high end of the spectrum with my 140 gr. hunting loads in the Remington cases....Im ok with the winchester cases.

I will likely use my Remington cases for 85 gr. loads and stick to lower pressures.

Long story short, if you work up with a certain brand and bullet weight of cases stick to that brand. Brass does not seem to be one of those easily interchangable Components.
 
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If you are reloading for a 42B autorifle make sure you duplicate Swede milspec ammo as close as possible.These rifles do not always respond well to reloads and may double-feed.
 
Imused to shoot a 6.5x55 in F class, so have a lot of loading expereince in that caliber. I also own some hunting rifles in the same caliber and have one deer and one moose.

I suggest the same heavy bullet for deer and moose. I used the Hornady 160 RN. Good for moose and does not blow up a lot of meat in a deer.

I suggest you sort your brass by brand and then use each brand for its own bullet weight. I used Winchester and liked the light weight and higher capacity. For deer and moose use a slow powder betwen 4350 and H1000.
 
I shoot 95's and 140's in my 6.5x55's. Sight in for your main ammo and then also shoot some of the secondary ammo and just note the POI differences. Then you could do up two ballistic cheat sheets and put them both on the butt of your rifle. You'll have two different zero ranges, but not a big deal as long as you know. The other thing is if you have a scope with target turrets you can memorize (or write down on your ballistic cheat sheet) how many clicks to change between bullets. Heck, a fellow with target turrets could do up a little stencil on his turrets, with black writing for one bullet and red for the other and just dial up his ranges, if he had gathered enough info from shooting.
 
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