Hello all. I recently bought an old 1942 Husky 6.5x55. It had been roughly modified. The trigger had been filed down and a screw mounted to lighten it. Not a bad job, but the bolt sleeve was ground off and the safety was deleted. the new safety blocked the sear but it didn't feel very safe. Very little distance between the "safe" and "fire" positions and no resistance to shift it. Ok at the range I guess, but not fit to hunt with. I got parts (thanks Trade.ex), and put them in. The sear does not hold the cocking piece back all the way. When I put the bolt in with the new safety engaged and then release the safety, the cocking piece and firing pin jump ahead about .25". Then you pull the new trigger and the sear releases the rest of the travel of the mechanism. Any ideas for a fix I will truly appreciate. I think the sear may not be coming up to meet the cocking piece
swedish mauser gets new parts
- Thread starter 351 power
- Start date
That sounds like it's functioning properly? Maybe not 1/4" but 1/8" (the thickness of the safety shoulder is how far the cocking piece should move back when it's engaged).
What you want to check is, can you engage the safety, pull the trigger a bunch of times, release safety and it still remains cocked.
What you want to check is, can you engage the safety, pull the trigger a bunch of times, release safety and it still remains cocked.
OK, what pieces were modified that you can see, and what have you replaced?
Cocking pieces and firing pins were usually shortened during bubba...I mean sporterizing as a method to reduce lock time. Can you post any pics of where it is at now? Probably more parts need to be replaced.
Just a pic of the cocking piece with the safety on, and the safety off would help.
The safety issue I described above is common and fixed by removing material from the cocking piece nose. I've never come across one where the safety was impossible to engage, a few where the safety needed thinning to engage but not like you are describing.
They are all 96 parts?
The safety issue I described above is common and fixed by removing material from the cocking piece nose. I've never come across one where the safety was impossible to engage, a few where the safety needed thinning to engage but not like you are describing.
They are all 96 parts?
Thanks for those. I got some to attach but for some reason I'm not allowed to attach to my posts. The way I'll try to describe is this, when I assemble the replacement parts the cocking piece engages with the trigger so that the rear of the cocking piece is about flush with the end of the action tang. Seems to operate great but the safety is about 0.421" from the top front of the cocking piece. I am assuming that's where the safety is supposed to engage. There is no safety on the original bolt sleeve to go by and the original cocking piece is cut off to almost nothing. I pull the cocking piece back far enough to engage the safety and the rear part extends out beyond the tang. Wished I could attach the pics. Would be much clearer
Something I see from your picture is that the front of the cocking piece on that one is full profile all the way to the threads. On mine both the original and the replacement are milled away to almost the ramped section or the beginning of the incline. Maybe I could just cut another slot on the top of the cocking piece to engage the safety?
I have 2 that have been altered. Thanks for that. Would you have an idea where a person could order a factory unchanged one? I have not fired the rifle because it seemed I should have it safe first but would the shorter travel of the firing pin actually ignite the primer, in theory? I could try it at a bench at the range without the functioning safety. I knew it was a fixer upper when I bought it so this is just part of the fun
- Location
- Western Manitoba
Trade-ex lists, or at least used to list, NOS strikers like shown in Post #9. The lip on the striker engages on the sear, not on the "trigger". If bubba has been at it, you might want to confirm the sear is original height and depth, as per pictures in Post #6. When properly installed and fitted, operating the thumb safety lever on the shroud should pull back the cocked striker visibly - .030" to .050" - it is supposed to pull the striker completely off the sear. Operating the trigger / sear mechanism with the safety engaged (or with the bolt removed) should always bring the sear back up to proper height - else something in the stock cavity is interfering with the rocking motion of the sear. When you release the safety, it should set the striker lip back onto the sear.
Yes the new sear I got from Trade-ex is taller than the one I took off. I have the replacement trigger and sear in place and they function as you say. Was it common for people to basically shorten firing pin travel in this way? I guess that the cocking piece I got from trade-ex was already modified? I hope to order a low swing safety eventually to use with optics. Maybe primer strike would be ok with the shorter travel of the firing pin. Have you seen this before? Thanks, and I'll see if Trade-ex has alternative cocking pieces.
- Location
- Western Manitoba
I have installed the Timney style low swing safety on mausers in order to use scopes, but, of course, you lose the bolt locking function. Same criteria though - it must pull the striker off the sear to be functioning properly. And the sear must be high enough to engage the striker either when the bolt is closed or when the safety is let off. I have no experience regarding "speed-locking" mausers, and limited satisfaction with replacement Timney or Bold side safety triggers. I learned to shoot with two stage military triggers - especially at minus 20, I prefer feeling the weight come on as you reach the second stage. The 303 Lee Enfield and the M1917 Enfields that I learned to shoot with were also ####-on-close designs. I've chosen to stay with the Mauser trigger / sear design - I have not been convinced that "improving" milsurp parts to get a "lighter" single stage trigger pull, or ####-on-opening conversions are a good idea. A properly set up Mauser trigger works very well, and can take a lot of abuse. An expert might be able to improve it, but most of us "home-handymen" usually end up making it less dependable, more prone to failure. It is a battle rifle design - works great for rough country hunting. I prefer not to try to make one into a target type rifle - most features on a bench gun are not desireable on a hunting rifle - just my opinion of course, and others are welcome to theirs...
https://www.tradeexcanada.com/content/swedish-mauser-cocking-pieces-arsenal-alluminum-bottle--
I have a few commercial sporters, the Vapen one for instance has a much shorter cocking piece, no issue igniting primers, the firing pins are massive. Common practice in Sweden.
I have a few commercial sporters, the Vapen one for instance has a much shorter cocking piece, no issue igniting primers, the firing pins are massive. Common practice in Sweden.
Potashminer, I feel the same way about the 2 stage trigger and the #### on close bolts. Still wish I had kept a great shooting P14 made by Winchester in 1918. Anyway I have the trigger and sear running like they should, just need to sort out the safety now. I think I will order the low swing safety soon. Thanks. The trigger, sear, and safety I took off this rifle were definitely not good to hunt with. Thanks for the link Hitzy. I will check that. The one I got from Trade-ex said "used", so someone must have milled it down and it was stripped from a used gun?
Here is my commercial Falun 8mm sporter, cocking piece was shortened on both ends, firing pin as well and it was peened over the end of the cocking piece. Can't be separated now, firing pin, spring, cocking piece are one unit.
Timney is a little easier to install, Dayton requires grinding a notch in the cocking piece. Both may require a few thou removed from the cocking piece in places to function properly, but they come with instructions.
Ok thanks. The new cocking pieces are ordered. I took it to the range tonite and was very happy to see it shot well despite the hacksaw shortened barrel. One 2 shot group at 100 yds was touching. This was 2 shots fired between scope adjustments. Really good groups after the zero was found. I know now it's time to start some beautification on this abused rifle.
