Swiss Arms Mount Help???

mstewart

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Hi,
I'm trying to install my B&T mount on my Swiss Arms Classic Green and I am having problems. The fit is so tight that I can't slide the rail down flat as you can see in the photo. Any ideas. It's only a C hair too long and I don't want to file off any of the bolt. Thanks in advance. I'm pretty confident that someone on this forum knows the answer. I hope to be shooting it on Wednesday.

Mike

IMG_1957.jpg
 
Hi,
I'm trying to install my B&T mount on my Swiss Arms Classic Green and I am having problems. The fit is so tight that I can't slide the rail down flat as you can see in the photo. Any ideas. It's only a C hair too long and I don't want to file off any of the bolt. Thanks in advance. I'm pretty confident that someone on this forum knows the answer. I hope to be shooting it on Wednesday.

Mike

IMG_1957.jpg

Give it a little tap with a rubber mallet or wood doweling, that will allow the clearance you are looking for.
 
That was sure easy. A couple of good taps and it slid right in. I'm used to working on my SKS and M305 where you don't have to be too gentle. I'll be shooting for sure on Weds.
Thanks for all your help.
Mike
 
That was sure easy. A couple of good taps and it slid right in. I'm used to working on my SKS and M305 where you don't have to be too gentle. I'll be shooting for sure on Weds.
Thanks for all your help.
Mike

Is the B&T mount the same as the KPA one? Are they 4140 or aluminum? If you don't mind me asking what did you pay for it?
 
Is the B&T mount the same as the KPA one? Are they 4140 or aluminum? If you don't mind me asking what did you pay for it?
The B&T is aluminum with a steel piece screwed on for the front dovetail. Steel bolt into aluminum threads = bad juju, compounded by the locking screw pushing on the threads, destroying them and then wrecking the aluminum threads when you then screw in the bolt. Personally, I'm not overly impressed with the design.

Of course I may be biased. ;)
 
The B&T is aluminum with a steel piece screwed on for the front dovetail. Steel bolt into aluminum threads = bad juju, compounded by the locking screw pushing on the threads, destroying them and then wrecking the aluminum threads when you then screw in the bolt. Personally, I'm not overly impressed with the design.

Of course I may be biased. ;)

I thought that was a set screw on the top of it. They needed the set screw there because aluminum will strip if you aren't careful. It is fine if you don't over tighten but people always over tighten. Are you able to post pics of the KPA mount in comparison?
 
I thought that was a set screw on the top of it. They needed the set screw there because aluminum will strip if you aren't careful. It is fine if you don't over tighten but people always over tighten. Are you able to post pics of the KPA mount in comparison?
Yeah there is a set screw in the top, and that's part of the problem. See, on the B&T the set screw clamps down on the threaded portion of the bolt, which destroys the threads. Every time you them move the bolt, you are destroying the threads on the aluminum base. We have a handful of junk B&T bases from personal guns with just such a problem.

KPA uses a longer bolt so that the set screws are clamping on a non-threaded shank. They also use two set screws on either side so you can theoretically have some lateral adjustment as well as keeping the clamping force even. You could also possibly remove the base with out removing optics, if one so pleased.

Click for larger:






And just for fun:
P9260004.sized.jpg
 
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Yeah there is a set screw in the top, and that's part of the problem. See, on the B&T the set screw clamps down on the threaded portion of the bolt, which destroys the threads. Every time you them move the bolt, you are destroying the threads on the aluminum base. We have a handful of junk B&T bases from personal guns with just such a problem.

KPA uses a longer bolt so that the set screws are clamping on a non-threaded shank. They also use two set screws on either side so you can theoretically have some lateral adjustment as well as keeping the clamping force even. You could also possibly remove the base with out removing optics, if one so pleased.

Thanks for the pics. The KPA mount looks like a much better option. There's quite a few machining processes involved in that mount from the looks of it. Are the set screws a cup base?

P.S. You must love your job. I bet you guys have TON'S of ideas just waiting for the time and money to get them to market.
 
Thanks for the pics. The KPA mount looks like a much better option. There's quite a few machining processes involved in that mount from the looks of it. Are the set screws a cup base?
The Swiss Arms bases have a total of 5 operations. Top, bottom, each side, and then drilling the hole in the end. Not bad, but a pain in the ass compared the Remington 700 bases.

P.S. You must love your job. I bet you guys have TON'S of ideas just waiting for the time and money to get them to market.
There's so many ideas bouncing around the shop its not even funny. Time isn't the biggest issue, it's money.
 
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