switch barrel tools

I started with a barrel vice and typical bbl wrenches (outside fit) for my Rem 700's and M14, when I purchased my Barnard I got one of their inside wrenches, I was sold immediately and just got a Rem Internal wrench from Holland, I find them easier to use, especially at the range, and there are no scratches on the reciever if it slips....
 
A typical Rem switch barrel shouldn't have a barrel on so tight that either method of removal will pose a problem.

Some are even just twisting the barrel and leaving the action in the stock to hold it.

If you are going to take the action out of the stock, then go with whatever tools you have access to. It will not matter. I can help with some of these tools now.

I have used both methods and they both work well. For the first removal of the factory barrel, I would go with the outside action wrench and lead shims to get a super good grip on that action cause you are going to need a very strong heave.

After that, it's no biggie.

Jerry
 
Jerry, on my rifles the hand tightened bbl does not come off by hand after a few hundred rounds, it does not take much to remove but doing it by hand is impossible.

The internal tools are faster and easier for me than clamping an external wrench on and using shims.

But thanks for the tip on using lead shims, that is a good idea.
 
bingo1010 said:
for those that are running switch barrel rigs... which is the better action wrench, the rear entry or the port wrench. advantages and disadvantages of each if you don't mind. appreciate it.
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I would go with the rear entry wrench over the port entry wrench as it has the potential to spread the torque more evenly over the action.

NormB
 
roberti11, a clamp is put on the barrel while the action is still in the stock. Can even be a hose/pipe clamp as you will not need alot of force. A handle with a loop of rubberised material that goes around pipe, jars lids, even oil filters etc.

I totally agree that you will not be able to remove by hand unless you are pretty darn strong. But any type of lever is plenty with firm hand pressure.

I got some lead shims as I am now able to offer various Wheeler products. Worked wonderfully on a Rem I had to take apart. Held like glue and zero marks. Love this set up. Just don't chew your nails till they are washed :)

Jerry
 
greenpasture said:
Rear entry is by far the best since you can add a T bar and use pure torque without bending the action.

Tighter is better to avoid movement in threads.

For your rear entry wrench use one that has only lugs which mate at the front receiver ring. Avoid the plate style with the lugs engaging the whole receiver. Great tool to twist your action. Only want the torque at the front receiver ring.
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Tighter is better... lol this thread is starting to get out of hand.....:rolleyes:
 
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