Taking the shine off of a new stock

Coolhand_Luke

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I have a Browning BLR (a new one) with a very shiny/glossy stock finish. Browning calls it duracote or something. Is it possible to take some of the gloss out of the finish without making it look like crap? Or is the only option a strip and refinish? If thats the case I will just live with it. Thanks

Luke
 
I have a Browning BLR (a new one) with a very shiny/glossy stock finish. Browning calls it duracote or something. Is it possible to take some of the gloss out of the finish without making it look like crap? Or is the only option a strip and refinish? If thats the case I will just live with it. Thanks

Luke

I've had good luck knocking the shine off a Browning BAR using rottenstone. I gave the stock a rub-down using a water-dampened piece of old hat felt dipped in the rottenstone. Rub very lightly in the direction of the grain.
 
Rottenstone will leave a sheen but less than what you have. If you are looking for something flatter than that use 0000 steel wool with some mineral spirits and boiled linseed oil (about 50-50) as a lubricant. Don't get too aggressive or push too hard. Do a small area and wipe it dry to see what you've got . When you get the effect you want work your way down the stock and blend the areas at the end.
 
Thanks for the quick replies! I am not sure what rottenstone is or where I could buy it... I do have some super-fine steel wool on hand though. Whats the purpose of the lubricant? is that to keep the finish from being "swirly"? Would plain water work instead of messing around with the oil/mineral spirits. I live in a small town and Im not sure my hardware store would stock anything too exotic.

Luke
 
Use 400 grit wet/dry paper... lightly wet sand small areas at a time using water...wipe clean --- it makes it look rather dull...
 
Rottenstone from Lee Valley Tools. Lubricant helps keep the steel wool from plugging with the finish you are cutting off and generally helps thing move easily. There are other options in sand paper including 600, 1000, 1500 and 2000 grit. Each will give a slightly different effect. You are only trying to modify the surface of the finish , not cut right through it so it is important to examine your progress by wiping clean and dry periodically. Even some of the auto paint buffing compounds will do the job but they seem to cut quite rapidly in the coarser types. Lots of ways to skin that cat.
 
2000 grit wetsanded will take the gloss off and will have minimal swirl marks. It might be hard to find in a small hardware shop though. 3M makes it. Canadian tire usually stocks it in the automotive section.
 
2000 grit wetsanded will take the gloss off and will have minimal swirl marks. It might be hard to find in a small hardware shop though. 3M makes it. Canadian tire usually stocks it in the automotive section.

Yep. Walmart has it, too...

Use the 2000/1000 grit paper to dull the finish, and then a rag with rubbing compound to get rid of swirls but stay dull.
 
ok I will look for the 2000grit sandpaper tommorrow, or whatever the highest grit they have on hand. Just one question, if i do this and it doesnt look how i want it can i try something else to fix it or is this a one shot only deal...

Luke
 
ok I will look for the 2000grit sandpaper tommorrow, or whatever the highest grit they have on hand. Just one question, if i do this and it doesnt look how i want it can i try something else to fix it or is this a one shot only deal...

Luke

If it's 1500-2000 grit you can polish back the shine relatively easy. Basically a rubbing compound and then a polish will bring the shine back. I use really good (and expensive) 3M polishes and they are absolutely fantastic, but they're more than you'd need for this. Some regular rubbing compound, polish, wax (in that order) and extra elbow grease will bring the shine back if you don't like the matte finish. Just be careful sanding around any sharp edges where its possible to sand too much off in a short amount of time. Sand slowly and carefully and you'll be fine.
 
I would sand it down with rough paper, then 400 grit to smooth it down. When free of all the original finish it will look like S**t. At that point use the 0000 steel wool or some 1000 or 1500 grit sand paper and smooth it down. Wipe everything with a lint free cloth. Then apply generous amount of Watco Danish oil which you can find at Home Depot( it comes in light, medium and dark walnut and other stains), giving it a bit of a wipe and let it dry overnight ( stand the stock/gun vertically).There will be a lot of absorption at this point as there is nothing blocking the pores.
The next day apply another coat of Watco Danish oil and 15 minutes later, wipe it off and let dry for a day. Repeat every few days for 4 or 5 applications.

I did it with a new Browning 625 ( because I inadvertently damaged the glossy oil finish leaving it partly flat and partly shiney.) I now have a super flat and rich oil finish.

I plan to apply a boiled linseed/turpentine combo 2:1, for a deeper finish, with a deep redish hint in the wood.(I have one gun done this way) It is rubbed in and applied with 400 grit paper so any pores of the wood absorb the minute bits of wood released by the sanding. The idea is to rub the mix(linseed/turp/sanded particles) with the palm of your hand until the linseed/turp gets warm and then some. At some point, after any application, when it is dry, run the 0000 steel wool over it - with the grain, to smooth any unsmooth areas. Weekly applications should result in a piece to be envied by onlookers. You'll have a shine, but it will look rich, not like a verathane gloss.
Only offered as a suggestion. There are many good ones that have been offered on this thread.
 
Use 400 grit wet/dry paper... lightly wet sand small areas at a time using water...wipe clean --- it makes it look rather dull...

Just my humble opinion but I think 400 grit is too course. Start with 1000 and work your way down until you get the desired sheen. Rottenston works well too. I like to mix it with mineral oil and rub it in with a lint free cloth.
 
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