target turret sight in question.

Ducimus

Ducimus

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I've got the 3200 10x40. How do I adjust it to sight it in. To hit paper at 100m I have to turn it up to 400m. Can I adjust the turret so it is zeroed back to 100? I removed the knob and can't see dials or scew underneath.

Unless I can zero the dial am I just going to have to remember that for me to hit 100m set it to 400m? If that's the case that stupid - I hope I'm wrong.
 
pretty sure you take that lil wrench thingy once sighted in and loosen the lil nuts, set the turrets to "0", then go from there
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On top of the turrets there is a shiny flat round thinggy with a hole in the center, there is one for the elevation and one for the windage. The hole in the center is where your allen key will fit and the shiny thinggy is the screw. Grab onto the turret so it will not move, insert the correct allen key in the hole and turn CCW until the shiny thinggy comes off. Lift turret knob straight up and off scope, rotate/index said knob to the correct orientation, push knob back onto the scope, place shiny thinggy back on the turret knob and screw in CW with your Allen key and know repeat for the other turret.

Hope that helps and sorry for the technical terms.
 
I've gotten to the point where the knobs come off revealing the brass turret. I've fired and rotated the turrets untill I'm shooting on at 100m.

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Now when I put the knob back on it reads 400m because I've been rotating the brass spindle all day. How can I get it to read 100m when I'm sitting at the 100m meter point?

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I know I'm missing somthing here.
 
I don't think that is "400m". I think that you have is a Vernier scale calibrated in minutes of angle. If you have a base zero for 100, click on the elevations for longer ranges by applying the correct come ups in minutes of angle.
 
I was uder the assumtion that the numbers on the knob were division of the numbers on the vertical scale and that one full rotation of the knob would raise elevation 100m. My bad (the instruction booklet it comes with sucks)
 
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There are 'scopes with elevation drums that have actual ranges on their scales, but these are usually caliber/load specific.
From your excellent photos, it appears that one revolution of the knob gives a change of 10 minutes of angle, each divided into 1/4 minute divisions. It you get a ballistic table for the ammunition you are using, it will be easy to click on proper elevations. Set the knob so that its "0" is aligned with the vertical reference line. Just keep a record of the settings for various ranges, and you will be able to apply them quickly and accurately. At longer ranges, you will find that the settings will vary slightly, according to the conditions, but you will be close to start.
If you wanted to have the settings on the scope closer to 1-0 on the scale, it would be necessary to use Burris rings with inserts, so that elevation could be built into the mount, saving the scope's internal adjustment.
 
If you have adjusted to your maximum elevation for citing in you have a problem. I had the same thing with my Remington 700. What you have to do is put a small shim under the back scope mount. Then try rezeroing the scope again. Once zeroed you should have plenty of room for elevation adjustments. Good luck.
 
I used half of my elevation to sight at 100m. I've got the Burris Sig rings, so I'll try a shim insert to lower everthing.
 
Set your scope's windage adjustment on centre, then use the rear ring windage screws to get an approximate lateral zero. Refine the windage zero with the scope's adjustments, then set the knob to 0. With the eccentric inserts in one or both rings, you can conserve as much of the up adjustment as possible.
 
My rings and mounts are non-windage adjustable. My windage isn't that bad. Going to the range today with inserts in place - we'll see what happens.
 
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