Taurus Model 608 Issue

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Jonny_Cannon

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Well. I just purchased a new Taurus Model 608 .357 revolver. Long story short - there's an issue (I believe) with one of the chambers. This is what occurs:

In either single, or double-action, the gun, for lack of a better description "jams" - hammer will not ####, cylinder will not rotate. I noticed when ejecting spent shells one shell had a harder time ejecting. It seems the jamming issue takes place whenever the hammer is prepared / this location is preparing to be fired.

I put 100 rounds of .357 through it, and then 50 rounds of .38 special.

It got to a point where I would notice the jam, and then I would rotate the cylinder back and forth (it would only move slightly) while trying to #### the hammer, and it would "free up".

I rotated the cylinder, and by eye, it doesn't appear to be out of alignment - the distances all appear to be even. I suppose something, however, is amiss with clearances if this is taking place.

Can anyone provide any input? Thank-you.

Cannon
 
Never mind. I did some internet research on this cylinder lock-up. The problem is simple: the gun is a POS, lol.

Cannon
 
Interesting. I have not tried it with empty shells, but indeed, it will not do this at all empty (no ammo at all).

Cannon
 
Are the chambers recessed?

One might not be cut deep enough causing the base of the shell to interfere with the breech face.(if thats what youd call it on a rev)

But in the end you are correct unfortunately about Taurus revolvers.... I did all that research prior to buying one and I am glad I did. ;)
 
Jonny_Cannon said:
Interesting. I have not tried it with empty shells, but indeed, it will not do this at all empty (no ammo at all).

Cannon
Click to expand...

So now we have determined that it is indeed the shells or the cylinder not being made right. Next question are you using reloaded ammo or factory?

Graydog
 
Factory ammo on the .357 - American Eagle 158gr. The .38 was Wolf, which I believe is factory reloaded ammunition.

Cannon
 
Yes I did. However, it was less pronounced with the .38 special. I chalked it up to slight wear-in after the 100 rounds of .357. Now you have me thinking maybe the difference in ammo length or something. I'll have to check it tonight.

Cannon
 
Jonny_Cannon said:
Yes I did. However, it was less pronounced with the .38 special. I chalked it up to slight wear-in after the 100 rounds of .357. Now you have me thinking maybe the difference in ammo length or something. I'll have to check it tonight.

Cannon
Click to expand...

It sounds like there is a problem with a cylinder that might not be cut quite right. Did it get worse the more you shot the gun? There is a possibility that it is just dirty. If it is not dirty, you are going to have to mark each ctlinder with a number and then just load one round in a cylinder at a time and cycle the action until you find the culprit or bad cylinder. Make sure you use the same round each time you try a cylinder.

Graydog

Graydog
 
Thank-you, Graydog. I think it is indeed a bad cylinder cut. It seemed to get better as I shot it more. I'm going to try to get out to the range this week before work and put another couple hundred rounds through it, and also save some empty cartridges for when I get home.

Cannon
 
Jonny_Cannon said:
Well. I just purchased a new Taurus Model 608 .357 revolver. Long story short - there's an issue (I believe) with one of the chambers. This is what occurs:

In either single, or double-action, the gun, for lack of a better description "jams" - hammer will not ####, cylinder will not rotate. I noticed when ejecting spent shells one shell had a harder time ejecting. It seems the jamming issue takes place whenever the hammer is prepared / this location is preparing to be fired.

I put 100 rounds of .357 through it, and then 50 rounds of .38 special.

It got to a point where I would notice the jam, and then I would rotate the cylinder back and forth (it would only move slightly) while trying to #### the hammer, and it would "free up".

I rotated the cylinder, and by eye, it doesn't appear to be out of alignment - the distances all appear to be even. I suppose something, however, is amiss with clearances if this is taking place.

Can anyone provide any input? Thank-you.

Cannon
Click to expand...


Have you spoken to store where you purchased this firearm?
 
I had a similar problem with my Raging Bull when it was new, I fire a round and the gun would seem to lock up, couldn't pull the hammer or rotate the cylinder and always seemed to be on the same chamber. When I would fire it the spent case would push against the breech face with enough force to lock up the gun. After a few hundred more rounds the problem went away, I now have over 1500 trouble free rounds through my Raging Bull.
 
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Update: took it out to the range, and have now put over 500 rounds through it. I actually thought the problem was getting better. I found today, using American Eagle 158gr .357, it was shooting great. A couple of times I had to use both thumbs to single-action it, but it never needed me to jiggle the cylinder to get it to rotate to the next round. However, I found using a box of .38 special the problem came back, and the same two chambers really locked up good. Perhaps some contributing factors were that the gun was quite dirty (I had to use the .38 because I ran out of .357, lol), and it was completely different ammo, I dunno. I'm going to try another 500 to 1000 rounds through it before I bring it to a gunsmith (if it still needs it).

Cannon
 
Tried using an empty shell (both .357 and .38 special) and reproducing the same cylinder lock-up while sitting at home. The gun was still dirty from the range. Both before and after cleaning I could not get the cylinder to lock up with an empty shell in any of the chambers. Ideas?

Cannon
 
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