Tavor and Glock MALFUNCTION - Frog LUBE

A

Alpha-12

New member
EE Expired
Rating - 75%
5   2   1
Just wanted to share my story and give you guys a heads up maybe save someone some grief . I used frog lube to clean my Tavor and Glock couple months ago and threw it back in the safe until yesterday when I took them both out for a trip to the range. Both guns have always run 100% until now! On the glock I was getting light strikes on the primers with all my ammo i was using 45acp from Norinco FMJ 230 grain and American eagle 230 grain FMJ and I would have 8 out of 10 rounds fail to fire ....as well with the Tavor it would short cycle the action(mfs 55 grain) Hornady super match 75 grain A MAX . The Frog lube turned into a sticky goo. After I stripped everything sprayed it down with my buddies CLP and wiped it off the next couple hundred rounds went off with out a hiccup. Needless to say I won't trust Frog lube anymore.
 
Last edited:
Everyone knows Frog lube is junk, only rookies buy into that crap. I got a bottle free, used it twice and threw the rest in the trash... Where it belongs.

Lesson learned though, no harm, no foul.
 
I could see how bad or no lube could cause the short stroking in the tavor (increased friction), but I don't see how light primer strikes could possibly be due to lubrication. You didn't stuff a wad of frog lube into the firing pin channel on your glock did you?
I've never used frog lube..
 
Most people who hate FrogLube are using it wrong... The instructions tell you to heat your parts up and put it on. Let it cool, then wipe the excess OFF. It's that last part that most people miss, and causes the gummy mess so many hate.
 
Phat Eagle said:
Most people who hate FrogLube are using it wrong... The instructions tell you to heat your parts up and put it on. Let it cool, then wipe the excess OFF. It's that last part that most people miss, and causes the gummy mess so many hate.
Click to expand...

^^^This, improper use is the number 1 cause of problems for people using Froglube. As said above, degrease, heat, brush on Froglube, wait an hour, wipe ALL of the Froglube off and reassemble the gun.
 
FoxAlpha said:
I could see how bad or no lube could cause the short stroking in the tavor (increased friction), but I don't see how light primer strikes could possibly be due to lubrication. You didn't stuff a wad of frog lube into the firing pin channel on your glock did you?
I've never used frog lube..
Click to expand...

I bet that's exactly what happened, firing pin channel is likely full of Froglube.
 
09outlander said:
I bet that's exactly what happened, firing pin channel is likely full of Froglube.
Click to expand...

That's my guess as well. I bought frog lube, and tried it once and it was just too much work to bother. Heating all the parts up yada yada when there are plenty of other oils that you apply in 1/4 of the time.
That said, I bet 90% of issues people have with it stem from improper application.
 
Matty308 said:
That's my guess as well. I bought frog lube, and tried it once and it was just too much work to bother. Heating all the parts up yada yada when there are plenty of other oils that you apply in 1/4 of the time.
That said, I bet 90% of issues people have with it stem from improper application.
Click to expand...

That's what I'm getting tired of is all the prep work, don't get me wrong, it's a great product and I've never had a problem with it. But it takes me about 4 hours to disassemble, degrease, heat, lube, wipe and reassemble. I've just switched to Ballistol and I am quite enjoying it so far, except my whole basement smells like black licorice.
 
09outlander said:
That's what I'm getting tired of is all the prep work, don't get me wrong, it's a great product and I've never had a problem with it. But it takes me about 4 hours to disassemble, degrease, heat, lube, wipe and reassemble. I've just switched to Ballistol and I am quite enjoying it so far, except my whole basement smells like black licorice.
Click to expand...

Same thing here. Too long to apply for the free time that I have. I now use fire clean and I'm very impressed with it.
 
I've been using militec1 for 4 years and it's great. You need to apply it properly for it to its job just like frog lube. Also I noticed that cleaning my firearms treated with militec1 is a breeze with no carbon build up at all. I can't say anything negative about frog lube even thou Ive never used it. I'm a firm believer of using oil based products for lube. Cheers
 
Yeah...definitely a bit more labour intensive with Frog Lube. It works, but not my cup of tea. That's pretty much why I've switched products.

I've been using the M-Pro 7 stuff for quite some time now, and for me, it works amazing. Cleaning after treatment/lubing with M-Pro is easier, and the lubrication tends to stay in place a lot longer. I like it.
 
Phat Eagle said:
Most people who hate FrogLube are using it wrong... The instructions tell you to heat your parts up and put it on. Let it cool, then wipe the excess OFF. It's that last part that most people miss, and causes the gummy mess so many hate.
Click to expand...

x2-- You really need to read the instructions before using frog lube. You cant just slather it on like other lubes. Even when I was using it wrong I never had it cause a malfunction though........Also I dont think it is very good for storing firearms as it does start to break down very quickly.
 
I use a NLGI #2 Hi-Temp rated grease. Cheaper, better and a tube will last you forever.

On another note .... Even when some excess primer sealent? somehow ended up on the Tavor bolt face .... I still only had one round ever not go "boom" on the Tavor ....

IMG_0716_zps90de8f7f.jpg
 
Last edited:
09outlander said:
That's what I'm getting tired of is all the prep work, don't get me wrong, it's a great product and I've never had a problem with it. But it takes me about 4 hours to disassemble, degrease, heat, lube, wipe and reassemble. I've just switched to Ballistol and I am quite enjoying it so far, except my whole basement smells like black licorice.
Click to expand...

Ballistol is tried and true, never a problem with it here
 
Isn't it pretty much a wax of some sort? I'm no expert but wax is a pretty poor lube.
I also don't understand all this stuff about how easy your gun is to clean after. I slather a bunch of light oil (plain old outters gun oil or air tool oil- the're pretty much the same) over everything in my AR. After 600-700 rounds of dirty norc .223 there is nothing in my BCG or upper that wont clean right off with a bit of Hoppes and a rag.

I don't know if i'm missing something or there is a lot of hype over nothing with frog lube.
 
The most frequent cause of light primer strike on a glock is gunk in the firing pin channel. It should be clean and dry. I don't use frog lube but your glock user manual show the precise spot where you need to apply lubrication. Stick with it and don't overlube it.
 
I have had the problem with getting it in my firing pin channels as well. But when i apply i try to avoid it because it shouldn't be in there. Keep it dry just like the bolt face if you can.
But in general frog lube is known to get really viscous in colder weather. even +5. but it shouldn't be "wet" anyways. if you use it like you are supposed to the metal should be dry essentially but "impregnated" or "conditioned" with the lube. which seeps out when heated.

I'm not trying to sell it though. its too much work. once i have to de grease all my rifles im not putting it back on the internals. I like it as a treatment for the outside finish of the barrel and receiver ect. and the bore. Its better against rust than it works as a lube.

and i can rub it all over the rifles with my hands without my skin being slowly chemically burned. which i LOVE. im just comparing it to my hoppes or g96 lube.
 
For all of you Froglube users who say those of us who have had issues with this lube are using it wrong. Here's Froglube's directions and note step 5.

CLP:
1. Pre-clean using above procedure with FrogLube Solvent™.
2. For best results, apply heat to area to be treated. Heat from a heat lamp, heat blower or ambient sunlight is more than sufficient.
3. Apply FrogLube and allow time to absorb. (heat quickens the rate of absorption)
4. Scrub, agitate, and wipe off excess. Normal cleaning tools such as nylon brushes, patches, wipes and towels are sufficient.
5. Lubricate per manufacturers instruction. FrogLube will work dry or wet. Note: In hot/dusty or extreme cold, follow manufacturers directions for use in extreme environmental conditions.
6. If storing, apply a light coat for long term protection.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom